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Flower Hmong women shopping at Bac Ha Markets

Bac Ha Market Town – Post 5

March 19, 2012 By Jan Robinson 4 Comments

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POST 5 – 30 DAYS IN VIETNAM

We intended arriving in Bac Ha Market in the far north-west of Vietnam on Saturday night direct from Hanoi, but logistics meant we ended up doing a day trip from Sapa.  We purchased a budget mini bus tour (approx $14 AUD) from the Green Valley Hostel and were up and had finished breakfast in time for our 7.30 a.m. pick-up.  One good thing about being the furthest hostel out of Sapa is being collected first, enabling first choice of seats to avoid travel sickness.

The main street of Bac Ha has a wild west feel to it.

An hour down the hill and our group of 16 grew to 18 when we picked up a Belgian couple at Lao Cai.  The mini bus seemed to be affiliated with a particular restaurant near the train station square, and we could use their restrooms if required.  The Belgian couple who were transiting had to reluctantly leave their bulky luggage at this restaurant, as the bus driver did not want them to bring it with them.  This sort of thing happens often throughout Vietnam, but we never heard any stories of left luggage being tampered with or stolen.

Flower Hmong women shopping at Bac Ha MarketsBac Ha was a further 1.5 hours on from Lao Cai.  Our route took us through paddy fields, fruit trees and undulating country.  Down here on the warmer low lands rice planting was taking place.

Horse and Cart Bac Ha, Vietnam

Entering Bac Ha Market, VietnamSugar cane seller at Bac Ha market, VietnamThe outfits of the Flower Hmong women added to the other worldly vibe of the town.  Flower Hmong women’s clothing is bright and cheerful, with multiple layers and big collars, the close ribbed embroidery creating thickness and warmth.

Walking through the market we came across the eating area where locals caught up on news over a meal.

Locals catch up with each other in the eating area at the weekly market at Bac HaContinuing on we came to the meat section.  Even though the water buffalo market was not far away, their were no flies hanging around the meat.

Pork for sale at the Bac Ha MarketsWater Buffalo at Bac Ha Market

Water Buffalo market at the back of the Bac Ha weekly marketThe water buffalo market was right at the back of the market on a small hill from where there was a good view into the distance as well as looking back toward the market.

View over the Bac Ha market from the water buffalo marketIn an inspired moment I had purchased a shoulder bag for a dollar at the entrance to the market on arrival, which saved me from the multitude of sellers of the exact same article throughout the market.  All I had to do was show the bag and the women laughed good naturedly and left me alone.

Bag Seller

Bac Ha is a quiet town that springs to life for the market every Sunday.  You can forget about the hard sell of the Black Hmong in Sapa, the atmosphere is relaxed in Bac Ha.

If you arrive on Saturday, you can book into the Congfu hotel and ask for a room with a view of the market to get a bird’s eye view of early morning comings and goings as the market springs to life.  As well you will beat the day trippers from Sapa on Sunday morning.

Vibrant maket scene at Bac Ha, VietnamHaving said that, we were day trippers from Sapa and did not feel the atmosphere was overwhelmed by tourists.

Chillies for sale, Bac Ha Markets, Vietnam

After lunch we regretfully piled back into the bus and headed off to a nearby village where we walked through the rice paddies and were invited to look inside a village home.

Village kitchen near Bac Ha

The home was one big spacious room.   There were three children in the family and just the one family bed.  The kitchen was situated in the far corner near two doorways and away from the sleeping area.

Flower Hmong skirt hanging out to dry

In our month in Vietnam we went to many markets but this was my favourite.

Read more One Month in Vietnam posts.

Read more about Asia here.

 

More from my site

  • We chose Lan Ha Bay over Halong Bay – Post 8We chose Lan Ha Bay over Halong Bay – Post 8
  • Experience Heaven and Earth in Hoi An – Post 11Experience Heaven and Earth in Hoi An – Post 11
  • Nha Trang Things to Do by Bicycle – Post 10Nha Trang Things to Do by Bicycle – Post 10
  • Kenh Ga Water Village, Vietnam – Post 9Kenh Ga Water Village, Vietnam – Post 9
  • Take a walk to Cat Cat Village – Post 6Take a walk to Cat Cat Village – Post 6
  • Sapa Vietnam – Into The Mist – Post 4Sapa Vietnam – Into The Mist – Post 4

Filed Under: Vietnam Tagged With: One Month in Vietnam

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. jenny@atasteoftravel

    March 20, 2012 at 11:41 am

    What an interesting part of the world. Market day looked like fun and I love the women’s clothing- so colourful

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 20, 2012 at 12:42 pm

      Yes I agree. Bac Ha and Sapa were so different to the rest of Vietnam.

      Reply
  2. Lisa Wood

    March 28, 2012 at 7:20 am

    Wow that market looks amazing – I love the ladies clothing..the colours and the fabric is incredible! Love going to markets whereever we stay, the Bac Ha markets looks so full of character.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 28, 2012 at 10:15 am

      Thanks Lisa, I am a big market fan and this was definitely the most atmospheric one I have been to. Mainly because of the women’s dress.

      Reply

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