Day 2 of our Eastern Turkey journey, saw Birol of Greenpiece Camping and Pansiyon suggesting we retrace our steps 7km down the road to Ispir to visit the Georgian church at Tekkale. We did not have it in our hearts to revisit that particular 7 km of road, so when he then suggested the Church at Barhal we went for it. Unfortunately it would mean a return journey to Yusufeli, doubling the distance (54km) and time taken.
But first of all it was Menemen for breakfast at Arzet Lokantasi. Marty ordered it as well, so this time it arrived on a large serving plate with two forks – Menemen to share 🙂 Beaten eggs, Spicy, cheesy, with lots of tasty cooked tomatoes in the mix.
Yusufeli 2006 – The buildings back on to the river.
Just outside Yusufeli to the left of the Barhal road, Kisporot Kalesi sat like a crown on a hill, but did not appear accessible. We followed the river, twisting and winding our way through the hills, snatching glimpses of farms snuggled tight against the river below. Occasionally clusters of houses formed villages and rustic bridges provided a lifeline.
Scenes enroute to Barhal 27km north-west of Yusufeli.
We read there was a possibility of encountering brown bears, wolves or wild boars in the hills around Barhal. Which do you think the Shepherd was protecting his flock from?
Barhal 10th Century Georgian Church.
The Church dedicated to John the Baptist, and located 1km past Barhal was locked, but Karahan Pansiyon which overlooked it, could possibly have provided entry. The pansiyon receives great reviews for friendliness, food and the Apiary fresh honey provided by the Pansiyon’s own bees, and has basic rooms catering mainly to hikers (it takes four days to hike over the Kackar Mountains to Ayder). For three centuries and until recently Barhal church was used as a mosque. The church/mosque was squashed into a tiny space making it difficult to photograph. A climb into the hills would provide a better outlook.
Now familiar with the road, it wasn’t long before we were back in Yusufeli ordering lunch at our favourite. The white hairdryer near the roasting pit (below) ingeniously provided a blast of hot air to make the fire spring to life. We had enjoyed our very brief stay in Yusufeli but The Mother of God Church at Ishan was calling.
Ishan Kilisesi dedicated to the Mother of God.
After 9 km the Yusufeli Road joined the Artvin-Erzurum road and turning right we followed the Ishan Kilisesi signs for another 21 km. The final 7km into the mountains was on a recently graded dirt road (known to be slippery after rain). That particular mountain drive was utterly spectacular. The colours ranged from yellow through browns and reds to distant blues. At the summit the road led through a seemingly deserted village and there in a dip behind the mosque sat the church.
Ishan Village
Whereas the church at Barhal had been dark and sombre, this one was light and fanciful but once again we were denied entry, this time by massive restoration work behind a locked perimeter fence. On our way downhill we passed a man herding his handsome cattle conveniently along the inner edge of the road. Of all the cattle we passed in Turkey these won the prize for “Best Behaved”. We had spied him from far up the mountain while taking photos, the bald hills revealing all. Back on the main road we turned south toward a lake formed by huge landslides three centuries ago. Looking down to the strange waters of Tortum Gölü, we were blasted by cold winds from the nearby snowy peaks.
The Mountains, Ishan Church and Tortum Gölü.
The afternoon was galloping by and we were yet to see the inside of a Church. A further 8km down the highway we turned right onto the type of road that brings out the inner rally driver. There were pretty views of poplar trees and autumn foliage as we moved deep into a valley surrounded by snowy peaks.
Sweet Success at 10th Century Öskvank Cathedral (Öski). Another dedicated to John the Baptist.
We noticed the same red markings on the exterior of the Barhal Church.
There were the remains of frescoes high up on the inside walls, and detailed carvings on the pillars of this three aisled basilica.
Things of Interest.
Yusufeli Tourist Bureau was located opposite Arzet Lokantasi to the right of the Otogar, but was only open Weekdays.
No Church Entrance Fees were charged.
The incumbent mayor of Istanbul, Kadir Topbas was born in Yusufeli. Elections will be held 0n 30th March, 2014.
Preceding posts.
Eastern Turkey Self Drive Itinerary
When to Visit the Black Sea Coast and Eastern Turkey and a Road Trip Surprise.
I’m linked to Budget Travel Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox.
Tuesday in Townsville Sunset and Bird
This was awesome, Jan! Something occurred to me tonight as I was reading this post and the past couple previous posts. I would say out loud to myself (Phoenix sitting at my feet, “who are you talking to?”), “…that reminds me of…(such and such place)..”. Do you ever do that in your travels? These posts have always been wonderful in that I’ve been able see places for the first time only what I’ve read about. I hope all of that made sense ha, ha. Anyhoo, you standing underneath the cathedral…wow! Enjoyed this 🙂
Gosh Mike, Substitute Marty for Phoenix and I have exactly the same conversation. There are common traits all over the world for sure. My being in that photo really shows how big the church was!
So beautiful…
Thanks Lily.
Oh those landscapes are often stark, are they not? But I can almost sniff the freshness of that mountain air. The churches look very soulful in their delapidation… glad you weren’t in proximity to wolves or bears yourselves.
A little like dry heather on the hills of Scotland?
I have the sense looking at your photos that you are in a land little changed by time. The one large photo looking up in the cathedral is simply awesome. What a fascinating part of the world to tour.
That is definitely right Leigh. Looking up in the Öskvank cathedral was an amazing feeling and I am glad it shows so well in the photo.
Interesting places!
Totally 🙂
This place just looks so charming. I like places like these where it’s not on everyone’s radar and is not crowded. That Öskvank Cathedral is glorious. It’s always a joy to see frescoes and detailed carvings in such old churches.
Yet another scenic and interesting journey, love the church buildings and great to hear of the restoration works going on.
The Georgian Valleys are a very interesting area to explore Rachel. Thanks for commenting.
Such history, such antiquity! Fab photos Jan … Please stop whetting my appetite for yet more must visit places in Turkey!!!
I was so glad when we finally found a Georgian church we could enter Jo 🙂
Another interesting post Jan, already added to the list! Can’t wait to explore this area!
HI Jan, I enjoyed these villages. They’re so bucolic and the landscape is so beautifully remote. And those old churches are amazing and their sheer size is incredible. I like your shot under the dome. I really enjoyed this post. I hope to make it to Eastern Turkey next time.
I really enjoyed seeing a different side to Turkey. And those mountains! The shot under the dome really shows the scale of the building. My red duck down jacket actually pinpoints me well. It was the only warm piece of clothing I took and it was fantastic.
That is a HUGE cathedral, Jan! Great shot, too.
I’m fascinated by old buildings, especially cathedral/mosques. The stonework is just amazing. I always think of the work, the workmanship and the time it must have taken.
I’m really enjoying taking this trip with you through Turkey. Look forward to reading more.
I know Marcia, and I think also about how they have managed to stay standing (mostly) for so long. An incredible feat. We will be leaving the Georgian Valleys next week on the blog and heading south. 🙂
What an incredible looking place. I’ve been meaning to get to Georgia and this makes me realize I need to get there sooner (hopefully before my friend moves from there). Thanks for sharing the exploration and the incredible photos.
I have not been to Georgia either and I believe it is a wonderful country. These now Turkish mountains used to belong to Georgia. Thanks for commenting Anwar.
I’ve been enjoying accompanying you via armchair through your Turkey travels. It’s an area where I have no preconception of what it looks like. Those mountains fascinate me in that they are so stark while the valley floor is so green. The photo of Oskvank Cathedral towering over you is my favorite. That red coat is a pop of color and having a person there emphasizes the height. I was also quite surprised that the ceiling is missing. On an unrelated note, a traveling family new to Australia posted on Facebook that they were in Townsville and that there didn’t seem to be anything to do. I pointed them towards your Tuesday in Townsville series.
Hi Michele, I looked on your site but couldn’t see the comment re Townsville. If they are here for any length of time I would love to help them out. Yes I should have pointed out that some Georgian Churches are ruins, but agree that my being in the photo really brings home the size of the cathedral.
incredible photos! Jan, you so could write a book 🙂
Guess the farmers are used to the Wild Animals {especially bears} but I still would freak out encountering brown bears, wolves or wild boars in the hills around Barhal and I am wondering how would the Shepard protect his flock?
Hi Lisa,
The Shepherd was carrying a rifle over his shoulder 🙂