Jovan Dučić is one of the favourite sons of Trebinje BiH. While other notable residents were historically either sports people, performers or rebel leaders he was a teacher, turned distinguished diplomat, who was even more well-known as a writer and poet. Today he lies buried in the Church on the hill in Trebinje Bosnia (BiH being the abbreviation for Bosnia and Herzegovina.)
One of three outstanding Serbian lyric poets of his generation, he was exiled to America in 1941 when Germany invaded Yugoslavia. He died there in 1943 with a final wish to be buried in his hometown. It wasn’t until October 2000 that he was finally laid to rest in the newly built Gračanica church on Crkvina Hill.
Views over the Town
The inside of the small church is totally covered by murals painted on a rich blue background. When we visited, sunbeams were streaming through the high windows – something I’d photographed only weeks before at St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican City.
Gracanica church on the hill in Trebinje Bosnia (BiH)
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While St. Peter’s Basilica was first built in 322, Jovan is probably the oldest thing in this church apart from religious icons. The Church was built with funds from Branko Tupanjac, a wealthy Serb in exile.
While obviously new, it is actually a faithful reproduction of the famous Monastery of Gracanica in Kosovo and Metohija – which holds symbolic importance to Serbian people.
The Church alone in a vast space.
The church on the hill in Trebinje stands alone in a theatrically vast space with a matching bell tower off to one side. Further behind that tower is a modern restaurant/cafe with extravagant town views. Although we were on a mission to get to the Bay of Kotor that day we couldn’t resist ordering coffees and enjoying them in such beautiful surrounds.
Although the complex was practically deserted during our visit there was obvious space for buses and I’m sure it does get a lot of visitors. The religious and souvenir shop accepts credit cards/Euros/BM and offers shipping. We purchased a couple of decorative bottles painted traditionally, which rightly or wrongly made a Turkish connection in my mind.
On the other side of the Souvenir Shop and parking area was a casual seating area beneath a vine covered pergola accompanied by a sad looking tethered donkey and adequately caged hens, roosters and rabbits, most likely billed as a mini-zoo.
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Situated at the front of the church this long staircase leads down through gardens to a small modern amphitheatre built into the hillside as if in Ancient Greece. The plastic moulded seats and atmospheric setting would provide an excellent performance space but it also provides an excellent view of the Ottoman, Arslanagić Bridge below.
Built on the Trebišnjica River at the convergence of ancient trading routes in 1574, the bridge was moved several kilometres to this site in 1970 after the building of a hydro dam submerged it.
A visit to the church on the hill really is a must while in Trebinje. The appeal of Europe for us often relates to antiquity and it took a while to process the concept of this new – yet old Serbian church. The landscaped complex is well maintained, the views are magnificent and with more time I would have liked to have eaten at the restaurant which promised excellent local dishes with attentive service.
We visited Trebinje as part of a road trip through Croatia, BiH and Montenegro during our Ten Weeks in Europe 2015.
Budget Travel Talk
Entry to the Church is Free
Coffee at the restaurant is inexpensive
The hilltop Church can be accessed by car or on foot
This week I’m linking to Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox with co-hosts Ruth from Tanama Tales and Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.
Best Travel Experience at Budget Travel Talk
Hi Jan,
Simply breathtaking! I love the photo of the light streaming in from the colorful dome above.
~Josie
Hi Josie, it is good to hear from you again. Happy New Year!
It looks very interesting!
Definitely Tanja.
I love visiting churches! And that sunbeam shot gave me goosepimples! I love the way the builders figured out how to best catch the sunlight. Absolutely beautiful photos and such an interesting tale to go with them!
Thanks Jackie. There were actually more sunbeams through other windows at the same time but I didn’t capture them as well as this one!
So beautiful inside this church. Love all the blue.
Yes all the dark blue was a surprise for us Sophie.
Wow, that’s stunning! I’ve never heard of the town or the poet but now I’d like to visit. Some day…….
It was a real surprise find for us to Anabel. Go there if you’re every in the area – it is very close to Dubrovnik (so close that Trebinje bombed Dubrovnik during the war!).
What an amazing church with majestic views. That outdoor casual dining area looks magnificent and I love the richly coloured murals inside the church. Such a beautiful place!
It was a beautiful church and the whole hilltop was gorgeous.
Jan, your photos has really impressed me. The place doesn’t look that big but the details make up for that. The views are great too. Hope you have many travels plans for this year. Love to read your stories.
Thanks Ruth, loved your San Sebastian post too!
What a gorgeous church and such a magnificent view! I’d want to linger myself. Your photos are stunning! I guess the price of the coffee makes up for the view and the church.
Hi Marcia. You misunderstood, I said the coffee was inexpensive. 🙂 Great views too!
It’s interesting to see how different the architecture is from churches in Western Europe, isn’t it? I must say, the interior paintings are stunning. You had a beautiful day for your visit, that’s for sure.
Oh it was a beautiful day Linda. Such an unusual place.
What beautiful pictures of Trebinje! It’s hard to believe that church is so new!
Yes it is a strange thing Rachel – but gorgeous.
This is amazing!!!! How lucky for you that it wasn’t very crowded when you went there.
Yes it was lovely Noemi to be able to walk around uninterrupted. It was so peaceful and beautiful.
Jan, I haven’t been to Trebinje, but I’ve got to go. I guess I won’t get a cup of coffee, though!
Hi Corinne, the coffee was inexpensive!
Now that’s what I call taking a church seriously. How impressive!
What a gorgeous place with a stunning view! I’m so glad this man was returned to rest in peace in the place he loved so much. 🙂
That photo of the sunbeams streaming in from the high windows is fantastic. I initially thought that this church was old based on the traditional architecture, so I’m surprised to hear that it’s in fact quite new. That man must be a fantastic poet to inspire such a building. I also like that they moved that bridge over the river instead of letting it be submerged. This is a very forward thinking town in terms of highlighting what they are proud of.
Hi Michele, I read one report that said the bridge did get submerged and then the lake was drained, the bridge disassembled, shifted and rebuilt. I’m not sure if that is real though.
Hi Jan. That is so gorgeous! With views like that, Jovan must be resting peacefully. Love the light through the stained glass window. I would be able to sit for hours on that lovely terrace! Thanks for hosting this week. #TPThursday
Wishing I was galavanting around Portugal with you! I would be at peace buried on top of the hill in Trebinje 🙂
Beautiful photos as always, Jan. I love old churches and this one is just mesmerizing. How neat that it looks like you had it all to yourselves too. Those views are stunning! That interior shot with the light is fantastic and befitting of a church.
The thing about this church is that it only looks old! We were the only people there for a while and when in the church we were totally by ourselves.
This is the first time I’ve heard of this place or seen pictures of it. Wow! You know what would be awesome? If I were blindfolded and dropped out right in front of the church, then I would freak out when I see it lol