Arriving by train we followed the flow of people to a vast marshalling area beside the river. While the area was practically empty in mid-November the thought of it overflowing with people was incredible.
Arashiyama at the base of the Arashiyama mountains in Western Kyoto is well known for it’s rather small but impressive bamboo forest. However it is the forested hills, breaking into a patchwork of Koyo (autumn colours) that provide a stunning backdrop for the river.
As the title suggests this post is all about the river, yet the hills and the river, like non-identical twins, are intrinsically linked.
Togetsukyo Bridge.
The Hozu or Hozu-gawa.
Originally the timber that built Kyoto’s temples was floated down this river and during the Edo Period it was used for several hundred years to transport grain and general cargo. With the advent of trains and trucks the river trade ceased but the river has since made a touristic comeback.
Starting out in the town of Kameoko the Hozu winds through the Arashiyama Ravine before shallowing out near theTogetsukyo bridge. Therafter it becomes known as the Katsura River.
The yellow boats were built of fibreglass made eye catchingly bright as the sun shone through.
A little upstream on the northern side of the river rowboats carrying up to three people can be hired. 1400 yen/hour.
While the smaller were rowed, these larger boats were poled along from the bow. Some, selling food and drink, pulled alongside the tourist boats while in others the passengers had brought along their own elaborate picnics. As far as I could tell these boats just poled gently around in the immediate vicinity.
Meanwhile there are two hour white water rafting trips from Kameoko to Arashiyama in traditional flat bottomed boats. The trip is quite safe and does not depart if the river has more than the normal amount of water in it.
After crossing the bridge we turned upstream and followed the river until a locked gate barred our way. Luckily there was an uphill track nearby which eventually led to a viewpoint in Kameyama Park overlooking the ravine. It was only the beginning of Koyo but the pinks, reds, yellows and greens of the hills and the blue of the ravine painted an impressive picture.
The Arashiyama Ravine.
Arashiyama’s Koyo season (the second half of November and early December) is the favourite for the 2 hour Hozugawa River Trip.
The Sagano Scenic Railway follows the river from Arashiyama to Kameoko using traditional restored carriages fitted with timber seats. The 7 klm 25 minute trip is an autumn favourite and doesn’t operate at all in January and February.
For a Frenzy of Autumn Colours it is possible to do the boat trip one way and the train trip the other.
How to get there.
By Train.
On the northern side of the river is the terminus (tourist information) for the atmospheric Randen Line which we had used previously to access Ninna-ji and Kinkaku-ji.
We used the Hankyu Line whose terminal is on the southern of the river.
By Bus.
Bus 28 from Kyoto Station.
Bus 11 from Keihan Sanjo Station.
I have linked to Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox.
About Townsville
Muza-chan
February 5, 2015 at 4:42 pmLove iy 🙂
Zascha Friis
February 6, 2015 at 4:29 amI have only just found your blog, and I am wondering how I’ve been able to miss it for so long.
Your pictures are absolutely breathtaking and it makes me want to go travelling right now.
Jan
February 6, 2015 at 4:05 pmHi Zasscha, There literally millions of travel blogs out there so it is incredible to think of all the great blogs we never get to see. I am glad you found my site and enjoyed it. I’ve been over and commented on yours BTW. 🙂
[email protected]
February 6, 2015 at 5:52 pmThe ravine looks breathtaking. The colours of the surrounding trees are just beautiful
Jan
February 7, 2015 at 1:25 pmWhat I liked about the view from above was we did not even realize that we would be able to look down on the ravine. We were just walking up the hill and when we reached the top most people were looking out at a view of the city while on the other side there was this view of the ravine. Surprising and spectacular!
Nancie
February 8, 2015 at 10:44 amBeautiful shots, Jan. I can see why this place is so popular in the autumn. Did you do the boat ride?
Jan
February 8, 2015 at 1:35 pmNo Nancie we enjoyed watching them from the banks more! We walked up the hills, through the Bamboo Forest and through the grounds of a beautiful temple instead.
Corinne
February 8, 2015 at 10:20 pmJan, What a gorgeous place! Jim and I absolutely love to take boats. I love the yellow ones…fun!
Jan
February 9, 2015 at 1:13 pmWe love boats too although we didn’t hire one we sure enjoyed walking beside the river and watching all the action.
noel
February 10, 2015 at 3:11 amI regret not having enough time to visit this area while I was in Kyoto, you practically need all year just to visit all the temples there, it is stunning countryside
Jan
February 10, 2015 at 10:59 amAgreed Noel. Arashyiyama is considered second to the Higashiyama area. We really enjoyed it although it was a little out of the way.
Mike
February 10, 2015 at 3:18 pmWow, that is beautiful and it “sounds” sooooo serene, Jan! Especially the boats. That is very inexpensive for an hour’s ride and I would love to have a picnic on the boat. I also like the nostalgia of the Togetsukyo Bridge. Have a great week, Jan! 🙂
Jan
February 10, 2015 at 4:57 pmI really liked the river walk at Arashiyama Mike. We only spent one day there but to take in more of what was on offer in the immediate area, a couple of days would be good.
Nancie Lee
February 11, 2015 at 12:11 pmWhat a beautiful location! I love anything to do with water and those boats trips look relaxing. I love the idea of bringing a picnic. You captured some wonderful fall colors! Thanks for sharing!
Jan
February 11, 2015 at 7:53 pmI’m with you Nancie – boats and water keep me happy.
Steve
February 11, 2015 at 1:00 pmReally wonderful pictures of the boats and trees! Thank you for sharing them.
Steve
Jan
February 11, 2015 at 7:53 pmBoats and Trees are two of my favourite things Steve.
Mary {The World Is A Book}
February 17, 2015 at 3:12 pmWe didn’t make it to Arashiyama when we were in Kyoto last summer. Now, I’m really regretting not making time for it with your post. Although, we wouldn’t have those great autumn colors. Your pictures are just stunning!
Jan
February 17, 2015 at 8:54 pmAutumn was a great time to visit. Next time I will try the cherry blossom season. 🙂
Lisa Wood
February 18, 2015 at 10:03 pmOh how amazing are those yellow boats 🙂
The two hour white water rafting trips from Kameoko to Arashiyama in traditional flat bottomed boats would be so much fun for our family…did you get to go on any boat trips?
Jan
February 19, 2015 at 8:37 amNo Lisa not on this trip, but I would consider it next time for sure. 🙂
Owen
October 1, 2015 at 6:04 pmHello,
I’m just wondering the way up to the hill and got that amazing view of the river. Can you show me the way up there please maybe thru a map of Arashiyama. Thanks
Jan
October 2, 2015 at 12:45 pmHi Owen, I am not at home at the moment. When I return I shall look for a map of Arashiyama. As I said in the post we just walked upriver on the town side of the river until we could walk no longer and then took the path that led up the hill to Kameyama Park. Turning left from that path should lead to the lookout. Jan