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Our guides orchestrated the smooth running of the camp

Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – The Sahara (Part 5)

January 31, 2013 By Jan Robinson 24 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


In the late afternoon, we cruised through the empty streets of Merzouga, 560 km inland from Marrakech in Morocco.  Box like earthen houses lined the meagre streets that lead to our rendezvous point on the edge of the Erg Chebbi dunes. 

The Dunes of Erg Chebbi.

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The Dunes of Erg Chebbi Morocco

Waiting on the unexpectedly fine black soil were our guides and ready-to-go camels. 

Camels waiting at Mergouza Dunes of Erg Chebbi

We had met up with the second 4WD in our group at a nearby service station for a toilet break and to BUY WATER to take into the desert.  Then it was all action as we met the desert guides, stowed our backpacks and water bottles and mounted the camels.  When the guides said the word, we leaned back in the saddle and one by one the camels rose. 

Sahara ahoy!

The camel drivers gave the word and one by one the camels rose.

Civilization disappears.

Although we moved slowly civilization was quick to disappear leaving us with the desert wind, sculpted dunes and an eerie quiet.  Scarcely broken by the rubbery feet of the camels, the quietness was everything.  Trying to make sense of the awkward motion of a camel, I admit to being awestruck of the whole situation. It was an incredible feeling to actually be riding camels in the Sahara after first dreaming of it as a teenager.

When I am asked what the desert is like, I answer without hesitation – Quiet.

A photo of the sun trying to shine through the weird sun-blocked sky over a red sand dune

A photo collage of the Saharan sky and dune over the tent top and close up of the tents.

 

Meet the Desert Guides.

Our guides orchestrated the smooth running of the camp

 Not only did they lead the camels up and down, dune after dune, but they did it so effortlessly, and for two hours… two whole hours.  If you have ever struggled up a sand dune on foot you will appreciate this accomplishment. 

Turbans discarded for virtual chef caps, they whipped up a chicken and vegetable tagine (the best we had in Morocco) and a huge vegetarian couscous. Afterward they became musicians and the sound of berber drumming blended seamlessly with the Saharan night. The floor was open for us to participate – but who knew that simple drumming could be so difficult?

While we sand-boarded down dunes or spectated, carpets and mattresses magically appeared in the compound’s communal area, as we had decided to spend the night under the stars clouds. 

In short, our berber desert guides orchestrated the smooth running of camp life and made it an experience to remember. 

Kamakaze Kitten.

The Saharan Camp Kitten entertained playing games, hanging of the tents and trampolining on the flat tent tops.

This was one turbo charged camp cat.  He clung to the tent sides and Claw/Climbed his way upward, to where the traditional flat tops of the tents provided a fun place to trampoline and roll.  He played find the beetle in the sand,  and peek-a-boo in a plastic bag, and then lolled exhausted on the multi-coloured rug. 

Although the kitten was the pet of one of the guides, he spent the night with our group, pouncing randomly on the unsuspecting and then snuggling up amongst the warily sleeping bodies.  The seven of us unanimously fell in love with him.

The weird sun-blocked sky had cheated us of a Sand Dune Sunrise, but we were awoken early nevertheless as we had a long drive ahead.  Following a breakfast punctuated with tales of the nocturnal antics of our kamakaze kitten, we were reacquainted with our rides. 

I had used every muscle previously known, plus a few more, to stick on my camel the previous day and it was willpower not muscle power that kept me seated on the return trip.  It was pure bliss to dismount, thank “Herbie” aka “2612”, and climb gratefully into the soft padded seat of the Prado.

A photo of myself, guide, cluster of camp tents with the dunes of the Sahara.

We had come to glimpse the Sahara

but had discovered so much more, 

“It is the journey that matters, not the destination”

can not be true in this case however,

The Moroccan Sahara is a show-stopping destination.

A collage of saying good-bye to my camel and the guides leading the camel train away.

Things I discovered about Camels:

  • When they scratch their stomachs you can hear the water sloshing around inside
  • They are very warm and soft to the touch
  • Their eyes are beautiful
  • Their perfectly shaped pellets of poo run down the dunes, collecting sand like a rum ball collecting coconut – I know – I spent four hours tied to the behind of the camel in front
  • Camels don’t always spit – mine didn’t at all.

Camel Poo runs down the dunes and gets covered in sand

Return to Marrakech

Our return journey to Marrakech was direct, stopping only for toilet and meal breaks.  We were delivered back to our hotels or in our case to JEMAA EL FNA Square as the lanes of the Medina did not accomodate motor vehicles.  The journey took approximately ten hours including  a very welcome joint lunch/debrief session with the guys in the other Prado.

Planning an Unrushed Week in Morocco

Our week’s stay in Morocco provided a neat cross section of the Country, from ESAOUIRA on the coast, to Marrakech 200 km inland, and this 4WD tour from Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi.  The formula provided an unrushed way of experiencing a relaxing port/beach town, the craziness of Marrakech, and the diverse country and sights of the Atlas Mountains and desert lands all within one week. We organized all the accommodation and transport ourselves on the back of an extremely cheap Ryan Air fare from Seville in Spain, flying out of Marrakech to Lisbon, Portugal.

This desert tour fitted our plans well. Having said that with more time and with this experience under our belts we would hire a car and drive ourselves next time.

Things to know before you go:

Merzouga is situated on the edge of the Erg Chebbi Sand Dunes.  The Dunes are 50 km long, 5km wide and up to 350 m high.

CAMEL TREKKING was the name of the company we used.

Cost 150 Euro each.

Two days to get to Merzouga and one day to return to Marrakech.

The vehicles were well maintained (shared) Prado 4 wheel drives.

Cost included two dinners, two breakfasts, two night’s accommodation – one in a hotel and one in the desert camp.

Budget Tip – The lunch at Ait Ben Haddou was quite expensive by Moroccan standards (10AUD) and was huge.  I could barely eat half of mine and would suggest sharing.

We did tip the driver and desert guides.  (Own discretion).

If I was wanting to go to the desert for the first time and only had three days I would happily use this tour company again.

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Previous Posts on this Journey

Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi Part 4

Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi Part 3

Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi Part 2

Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi Part 1

More from my site

  • Taxi from Marrakech Airport to Medina and Marrakech Riad MaizieTaxi from Marrakech Airport to Medina and Marrakech Riad Maizie
  • Sixteen Things You Must Do in Marrakech MoroccoSixteen Things You Must Do in Marrakech Morocco
  • Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Dades Gorge and Todra Gorge (Part 4)Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Dades Gorge and Todra Gorge (Part 4)
  • Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Ait Ben Haddou (Part 3)Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Ait Ben Haddou (Part 3)
  • Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Argan Oil and Mountains (Part 2)Marrakech to the Dunes of Erg Chebbi – Argan Oil and Mountains (Part 2)
  • Marrakech to the dunes of Erg Chebbi – Atlas Mountains (Part 1)Marrakech to the dunes of Erg Chebbi – Atlas Mountains (Part 1)

Filed Under: Budget Travel Tips, Destination, Experience, Journey, Morocco, Road Trips Tagged With: Marrakech

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Johanna at ZigaZag

    January 31, 2013 at 12:48 pm

    What a wonderful excursion and some fabulous pictures, Jan. I loved the Kamakazee kitten!

    Reply
  2. Mary @ The World Is A Book

    January 31, 2013 at 5:11 pm

    This is an absolutely amazing experience. Those dunes are breathtakingly beautiful! Riding a camel in the Sahara has been a big wish list so thanks for the virtual tour for now. Interesting things about camels I’ve never heard before.

    Reply
    • Jan

      January 31, 2013 at 8:18 pm

      I love the camels Mary, their faces are so interesting – I was worried they would spit on me though 🙂

      Reply
  3. Muza-chan

    January 31, 2013 at 5:29 pm

    Thank you for the interesting article, Jan! As always, I enjoyed viewing the pictures…

    Reply
    • Jan

      January 31, 2013 at 8:17 pm

      Thanks Muza, glad you enjoyed the photos!

      Reply
  4. jenny@atasteoftravel

    January 31, 2013 at 8:21 pm

    What a great finish to your trip Jan. The dunes look beautiful. I too would love the quietness they offer.

    Reply
    • Jan

      January 31, 2013 at 8:22 pm

      What made it so nice Jenny was that everybody felt the same – nobody spoke on the way to the desert camp.

      Reply
  5. Leigh

    January 31, 2013 at 11:42 pm

    Sign me up. I’d love to go and can empathize with the soreness of muscles you never knew you had. This sounds like such a great trip – not just the Sahara – but the whole Moroccan adventure from start to finish.

    Reply
    • Jan

      February 1, 2013 at 9:16 am

      It was the holding on when the camel went down hill that did all the damage to my muscles! Morocco was definitely an adventure.

      Reply
  6. Sophie

    February 1, 2013 at 3:40 am

    Must have been a fantastic experience. I love the desert – brutal, yet beautiful – and quiet.

    Reply
    • Jan

      February 1, 2013 at 9:15 am

      Morocco ticked a lot of boxes Sophie. The quiet!

      Reply
  7. Vera Marie Badertscher

    February 1, 2013 at 5:29 am

    I have never been the least tempted to climb aboard a camel, so I’m so glad that you gave me this virtual ride into the desert. THANKS. Beautiful, beautiful (as well as quiet).

    Reply
  8. Nancie

    February 1, 2013 at 10:13 am

    I remember my trek into the desert when I was in Egypt. Loved the desert. Can’t say the same thing about the camel ride…haha. Your ride looks more comfortable with a saddle. I rode on top of all of the bedding; scared I was going to topple over. That kitten is so cute!

    Reply
    • Jan

      February 1, 2013 at 3:48 pm

      Gosh Nancie, It was hard enough staying on when we went downhill, even with a saddle, let alone perched on top of the bedding. It would have been better to have stirrups though! Cute as kitten.

      Reply
  9. Tonya

    February 1, 2013 at 11:20 am

    Wow, it sounds like a truly unforgettable experience! I loved your pictures and your description was wonderful. I felt like I was right there with you!

    Reply
    • Jan

      February 1, 2013 at 3:46 pm

      Thanks Tonya, It was a pity the sky was not blue, as it would have made for more stunning photos, but these showed a different side of the desert.

      Reply
  10. Morocco desert tours

    February 1, 2016 at 5:22 am

    i love the fact that you recognized the hard job theses nomads hosts perform on a daily basis: They lead the camels, prepare the food, serve it to you, entertain you, and guard you while you sleep, then prepare breakfast for you before they lead your camels back to your vehicle. Once you depart, they feed the camels and go home to sleep before they get ready for an other group!

    Reply
  11. Morocco Tours

    July 2, 2017 at 9:58 pm

    I’m very happy to hear that you enjoyed your trip in my lovely country 🙂

    Reply

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