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View from the Le Grand Balcon du Cafe Glacier (the small piece of the L Shape)

Morocco works its magic in Jemaa el Fna!

June 11, 2012 By Jan Robinson 17 Comments

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After the culture shock of our arrival in Marrakech, we showered and regrouped.  Dan the owner of our Riad took us on an initiation walk through the Medina to Jemaa el Fna Square, pointing out landmarks by which to find our way.  Dodging soccer balls, motor bikes, bicycles, barrow men, donkey-drawn carts, beggars, cats and bad smells, we made our way to the square, where  Dan left us to explore.

Donkey on a well-earned lunch breakBy day the square is one huge open space dotted with monkeys chained to their owners, brightly dressed water sellers, rows of orange juice carts, nut and date carts and a few Argan Oil Sellers.   If the co-operative’s name is on the argan oil bottle it is probably authentic, but it is probably better to visit a co-operative if you are going into the Country and buy direct from them.

The famous Cafe de France lines Jemaa El Fna Square in MarrakechThe interlocking maze of lanes that form the souks, adjoin the square and the Medina.  We would explore those the next day.  For now we were happy to return to the Riad, just to make sure we could find it again, and then with evening approaching eagerly return to experience the madness and magic of Jemaa el Fna.

          *          *          *          *          *          *          *         *          *          *

Friendly Orange Juice Vendor, Jemaa El Fna Square, Marrakech, MoroccoSidestepping dancing cobras and their turbaned owners, we grabbed a freshly squeezed, 40 Dirham (40c) glass of orange juice and surveyed the scene.  Night didn’t fall till after 9 p.m., but the one hundred food stalls had set up already and were open for business.  Touts tried persistently getting customers to their stalls, shouting  “You Remember – No. 33 – Best Food – You Come Back”.  They are well versed at picking nationalities, and Marty’s hat brought howls of “How ya goin’ Mate” and “Kangaroo” .

No. 44 Offered Sheep Heads for DinnerWe had already decided to eat at No. 1 Stall, but wanted to look around first.  Smoke poured from the brazier fires, stinging our eyes, and the acrid smell of flare grilled meat filled our noses.  Every stall displayed their produce, with impressive style.   Piles of tiny sausages, plates of lamb, chicken and lamb threaded on long kebab steels, bowls of cooked aubergine and spinach, tubs of olives some glossy green and others wrinkled black, bowls of vibrant salads, couscous, tagines, calamari and fish.  Every afternoon they set up and then late that night it all had to be pulled down, only to repeat the performance the next day.  Between the orange juice vendors and No. 1 were the stewed snails – a local delicacy – should we try some for entree?  Surrendering to a tout from No. 1 we recited as instructed, “Mr. Dan sent us”.

We over-ordered thinking we would get one or two of everything we ordered, but instead received a plateful of each –  sausages, chicken kebabs, calamari and mixed vegetables (delicious), served with bread, and two plates of red sauce.  On investigation one appeared to be tomato and one chilli.  Salt, pepper and cumin were there to pinch onto our food.  Supposedly the cumin has a calming effect on upset tummies!

 Our first dinner in Marrakech, at Food Stall No. 1, Jemaa El Fna SquareOur first meal in Marrakech at Food Stall No. 1 in Jemaa El Fna SquareFood Stall No. 1, Jemaa El Fna Square, Marrakech

 

 

 

As night fell we sat on the balcony of the hotel “Le Grand Balcon du Cafe Glacier” that overlooks the square.  Carriages pulled by horses clattered beneath us;  the sound of the snake charmers’ flutes mixed exotically with the insistent Berber drumming; Berber story tellers were encircled by rows of entranced listeners while magic acts and tricksters kept the locals enthralled.

Jemaa el Fna Square, Marrakech, MoroccoI felt sorry for the monkeys.  They sat in nappies, chained to their owners, waiting for tourists to pay for a photo.  As we watched from the balcony one escaped.  With it’s owner in hot pursuit it ran off through the crowd, taking refuge under a series of carts.  The chase lasted quite a while and had the crowds excited and cheering for the monkey.  Before night descended, the snake charmers and monkeys departed.

Two Moroccan women fought over a stall space.  There was yelling and pushing and then the drummers intervened.  One was led away between the orange carts to cool off, but she shook off her captors and returned to the fray.  More people became involved.  There were vocal threats and posturing, but  I am pretty sure everyone involved enjoyed themselves immensely.  When we told Dan about it the next day, Will the Riad manager, (and Dans step-son), already knew about it.  The Medina gossip wheel had turned.

I can’t think of a more exciting thing than walking in Jemaa el Fna for the first time at night.  As we had only just arrived in Morocco, everything was wonderful and strange, but this square at night was a sight to behold.  It is the same, but different, every single night.  It is the loudness of the drumming and the strange flute music of the snake charmers – the anticipation of what might happen next (a snake around the neck), that gets the adrenalin flowing.

Evening at Jemaa El Fna Square, Marrakech, MoroccoOnce away from the food stalls, there are no overhead lights.  In darkness we walked from the Storyteller to the Magician, Trickster, and the Pigeon Dove Act.  This Act made us laugh.  I think he was meant to be a Dove Charmer, or not.  He played music and his dove lifted it’s feet and walked on the spot in a small square on the ground.  For some reason everyone loved this act!  There was probably more to it than what we saw.

The appealing thing about Jemaa el Fna Square is that it is not just a show for tourists.  It is more of a show by Moroccans for Moroccans and it is world heritage listed for it’s cultural importance.  The reality that it is loved by Tourists just as much as Morrocans does not detract from it’s appeal.

After dark the view from above became even  more magical.  The 100 food stalls lit up, the smoke mingling with the lights from the stalls.

But enough looking from above – the time had come to rejoin the crowds and be absorbed by Jemaa El Fna.

Tips for enjoying Jemaa El Fna at night.

1     Visit the square during Daylight hours first.

2     Failing the above arrive late afternoon and watch the pace pick up.

3     Take a break at a rooftop cafe to enjoy the views and regroup.

4     Rejoin the fray.

5     Getting your photo taken with or holding a Cobra will cost more than you imagine.
[pinit]

Jemaa El Fnaa is an unforgettable Marrakech experience.  A performance by Moroccans for Moroccans which visitors love.

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Filed Under: Morocco Tagged With: Marrakech

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. May

    June 13, 2012 at 11:03 pm

    Hi Jan,
    Thanks for stopping by both my blogs. I have replied to your comments and queries.
    I have been following your adventures in detail and truly enjoying them. Years ago my Dad was in Marrakech, though I was quite young to really know about the details. All I remember is a picture of him sitting atop a camel..:-) Also, I was intrigued in the way you kept your garden growing inspire of your absence!! Keep your posts coming, I love them.

    Reply
    • Jan

      June 14, 2012 at 8:00 am

      Hi May, It is great to know you are enjoying my posts. You are lucky to be from India (a place that intrigues the world) and to have lived in Marrakech and now in Germany! It would certainly have been a shock having to give up your job and then be in a foreign place. But it did give you the impetus to start your blogs and your photography is great! What camera do you use?

      Reply
      • May

        June 14, 2012 at 9:51 pm

        Hi Jan,
        I have not visited Marrakech, only my Dad(He has travelled widely sometimes taking my mum along with him. To take us 4 kids along would have burnt his pocket..:D He now loves it that I am able to do it too with my family). Yes, I am lucky to be from India and I am eagerly looking forward to returning back home. To give up my job and be in a foreign place was more than a shock. It was simply hard for me with all the available free time. I was always a very busy bee. That’s how the seed for writing a blog was planted. I find it hard with words but do make it up with pictures, which I realized only after coming here that I have an eye for photography. I use a Nikon D90 which was gifted by my hubby 11 months ago.

        Reply
        • Jan

          June 15, 2012 at 3:38 pm

          Hi May, You certainly are a great photographer, and your English is excellent – no need to worry about that. Thanks for the camera details.

          Reply
  2. Jo

    November 16, 2015 at 2:13 pm

    I can feel the magic and my heart raced a little as I read your account of Morocco. Our daughter said it was probably her favourite destination in a trip that covered three or four countries, so it’s now well and truly on my radar 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 16, 2015 at 6:55 pm

      My heart was racing when we were there Jo!

      Reply
  3. Lyndall @SeizeTheDayProject

    November 16, 2015 at 2:51 pm

    Wow Jan – how exciting. Marrakech and the Jemaa El Fna square looks and feels so exotic from your post.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 16, 2015 at 6:56 pm

      It really lived up to it’s reputation Lyndall.

      Reply
  4. Kathy Marris

    November 16, 2015 at 7:41 pm

    Such an exotic place. Your photos show the magic of this place. A lot of the younger generation say that Morocco is on their “must see list”. I can see why.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 17, 2015 at 10:09 am

      It was on my list from when I visited Europe in my early 20’s. I never got to it then, but I did eventually in 2012.

      Reply
  5. Michele Peterson ( A Taste for Travel)

    November 17, 2015 at 12:50 am

    “Sidestepping dancing cobras” says it all about how exotic this destination is! Morocco is definitely on my must-visit list and I’ve pinned this post so I can locate it for later. It sounds like Jemma el Fna is incredible and you’ve brought it to vivid life.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 17, 2015 at 10:08 am

      I’m happy that I managed to capture the essence Michele.

      Reply
  6. Wanda

    November 18, 2015 at 9:48 pm

    Thank you Jan. What an evocative post. So many sights, sounds and smells. I’d been to Morocco when I was quite young. Judging by this post, I think I might find it more inspiring at this stage in my life!

    Reply
  7. Life Images by Jill

    November 19, 2015 at 11:53 pm

    oh wow I really enjoyed your blog post. Morocco is right up there on my list of places to visit. Did you see the Ainsley cooking program about street food in Morocco? What wonderful sights, and smells and tastes there must be. But I think I would definitely need a guide. Happy travels Jan and thanks for the tour!

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 20, 2015 at 8:02 am

      Yes I saw that and also Shane Delia was there too. A guide is handy your first time in the Souk. We don’t normally have a guide but I actually won an Urban Adventures tour which turned into just the guide and us. I’d heard that the stall holders could be hard sell, but with the guide along nobody bothered us.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Marrakech to Erg Chebbi - The Sahara - Part 5 says:
    January 31, 2013 at 11:27 am

    […] stopping only for toilet and meal breaks.  We were delivered back to our hotels or in our case to JEMAA EL FNA Square as the lanes of the Medina did not accomodate motor vehicles.  The journey took […]

    Reply
  2. I won a Marrakech Adventure on Facebook says:
    May 8, 2017 at 1:58 pm

    […] tour started and finished in Jemaa el Fna which was masquerading behind a laid back day time […]

    Reply

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