Is Mirogoj Cemetery in Zagreb the most beautiful cemetery in Europe? I think so and it is a definite on my list of Zagreb things to do. Mirogoj Cemetery is situated in the leafy foothills of Mount Medvednica in the Croatian captial.
[pinit]Mirogoj Cemetery Zagreb is more than a final resting place. It is a beautiful place to visit, with stunning architecture – yes – architecture and beautiful arcades.
Who built Mirogoj Cemetery
Commenced in 1879 by architect Herman Bollé, the walls, arcades, pavilions and morgue took half a century to complete. The powerful brick wall of the Cemetery, topped by twelve distinctive green domes, is captivating and a cafe and the ability to sketch would be great.
Just as the living of Zagreb had a city, Bollé’s vision was to provide the same for the dead and I think he succeeded. The beautiful crematorium (by architects Hrzic, Krznaric and Mance) was added later in 1984.
Walls from the southern (City) end.
The Walls from the northern end.
The landmark domes can be seen from Jurjevska Street on Cmrok – the opposing hill – where we walked the previous day. You can see that view and others from our Leafy Zagreb walk here.
How to get to Mirogoj Cemetery Zagreb
The 106 bus leaves from in front of Zagreb Cathedral every 20 minutes and stops at the main entrance or further along at the Crematorium.
We arrived by a different bus from the other side of town, getting off when we were in a close by street and walking arrived on foot up Aleja Hermanna Bollea, discovering as we went.
While the wall continued into the distance, the southern end where we were, hid an unpretentious gate, just beyond a wisely placed flower stall. Entering through it felt a little like entering a secret garden.
Inside, sheltered by the wall, a magnificent arcade or gallery is revealed.
Not sure of etiquette, I gingerly walked along the very edge so as not to step on the graves. I guess with a lot of visitors present this would be un-realistic, but I remember my grandmother shivering and saying “Someone just walked over my grave”. So I kept to the edge.
Looking South in the Southern Arcade.
Up in the arcade, lucky tombs shelter in style, where identical pillars support the gracefully curving and delicately flaking ceiling. The cemetery spreads out behind the arcades, divided by treed streets, with many famous and ordinary Zagreb citizens buried between.
Being council-owned Mirogoj Cemetery Zagreb Croatia is open to everyone.
The famous writer and Poet Miroslav Krleža whose huge statue we’d came across on our Leafy Zagreb walk is buried here, as is Herman Bollé himself. Look for group memorials like the monument to 400 children killed in the genocide against Jews and other minorities during WWII and the German WWII Cemetery (recognized after a 1996 agreement) where 2000 soldiers lay – a reminder of Peace.
Walking Uphill through the Arcade.
Half way along, it becomes apparent that the wall and arcade are divided into two – north and south – meeting in the middle at the semi-circular main entrance at the Church of Christ the King. Approaching from the south enables a direct south-north exploration, instead of having to see one half then backtrack to the other, if starting at main entrance.
Church and Dome of the northern arcade.
At other times the vibrant green creeper is a deep burgundy red – I hope I get to see that one day.
Church and Dome of the Southern Arcade.
Wherever we went on this European spring trip the crowds were minimal and Mirogoj was no exception.
It was so peaceful in the arcade, reminiscent of a dreamy church cloister or an outdoor art gallery. As we lingered, admiring statues and paintings, I couldn’t help thinking how lucky we were to have come to such an unusual place.
Jan Robinson
If you don’t normally visit cemeteries, I suggest making this one the exception.
Budget Travel Tips for Visiting Mirogoj
- Take Bus 106 from Zagreb Cathedral leaving at 20 minute intervals.
- Look for stalls nearby the Cathedral selling Cemetery supplies.
- Visit on All Saints Day for Candle Lights, flowers and families.
- Mirogoj Cemetery Opening Times:
April – September 6 am to 8 pm.
Oct – March 7.30 am to 6 pm.
Thanks for reading and commenting – we really appreciate it. If you have a blog, please add a travel post to the link below for Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday which we co-host with Ruth from Tanama Tales and Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.
Trapani in Photos
The infinity archway is beautiful. I’ve always loved visiting cemeteries when I travel. So interesting.
How beautiful. I could see myself wandering around here for days. I’m with your grandmother; no walking on graves 🙂 Thanks for co-hosting this week. Sorry if I’m not been around much. I’m teaching more hours this semester so not a lot of time for much of anything. #TPThursday
What an interesting place. I love the architecture, especially the arcade photos. We still haven’t made it to Croatia.
I hope you get to Mirogoj when you get to Croatia Rhonda – maybe the creeper will be Burgundy when you arrive!
Jan, this is quite a place! It looks like a palace! I like the idea of creating a beautiful city for the dead. To some, it may sound nonsense but it is something to think about. I have been to beautiful cemeteries and mausoleums and they are peaceful and meditative.
I’m not big on visiting cemeteries, but I loved this one. Everyone who appreciated old architecture would love it as well.
Beautiful Jan. I think visiting cemeteries in foreign countries is sometimes so interesting. We visited the historical Lafayette Cemetery in New Orleans where all the interred are buried in tombs above the ground. We also visited the cemetery at the River Kwai in Thailand where there were thousands of prisoners of war buried from being worked to death on the construction of the bridge and railways. So Cemeteries definitely can tell you a lot about the history of a particular place.
What a beautiful place! I love going to places like this as they are so full of history and the architecture here is stunning. Glad you wrote about it as I will definitely add it to my list should we make good on our promise to get there one day!
What fantastic pictures of this beautiful place
Great photos. Mirogoj Cemetery doesn’t look like a cemetery at all, it’s beautiful. Even the wall are beautiful.
The scale of the building is stunning and so beautiful. I’ve not been but Croatia looks so interesting to visit with all the history.
I sometimes make it a point to stop by cemeteries especially in Europe. They sure know how to build fancy resting places. This has to be one of the most beautiful I’ve seen. Those archways and arcades are stunning. This place looks like a royal home.
I know Mary! I don’t usually visit cemeteries but I’d seen photos and had to visit for myself. It really is fantastic.