Having booked a double room in a budget hotel (riad) through an online agency at 29 Euro per night, we arrived in Essaouira to see it advertised at the door Four Euros cheaper – business was a little slow.
We shifted from our room on the second floor that I had chosen on-line, to one on the first floor, with better wifi and settled in, but not before sipping politely on our welcoming pot of mint tea. I always think it tastes like mint toothpaste… gag. By the time we left I had managed to convince the cook not to add the mint – although she complied, she always looked at me warily after that, as if I was not to be trusted.
Am I the only person on the planet that does not like mint tea? I think so!
At breakfast the next morning it became apparent that we were the only guests in residence and breakfast was prepared just for us. Talk about pressure – the cook had to twiddle her thumbs waiting for us to get up before she could cook breakfast. Thereafter I was always worrying “maybe we should get up – the cook will be waiting for us” – I didn’t want to upset her any further.
Pride of place at breakfast were the inevitable Moroccan pancakes, which bore no resemblance whatsoever to pancakes as we knew them except that they were in this case, round. Though even this was not a given because the ones at the previous riad in Marrakech were square. In both cases they were prepared fresh every morning. The veiled ladies in Marrakech kneaded the mixture in a huge ceramic bowl, but there was no way the cook in Essaouria was letting this mint-tea hating woman in her kitchen, (Umm, O.K. Not really the cook’s problem I was just too scared to ask!) so I do not know how hers were made.
I really appreciate the past French colonization in Asia and Africa because it means a legacy of crusty french loaves with butter, jam and coffee for breakfast as well. In this case served in the light, cool internal courtyard, with the black and white square floor tiles, potted plants and mosaic tiled round tables. Moroccan rugs hanging over the upper balconies, and seagulls screeching overhead completed the picture.
That afternoon we came home for an afternoon Siesta. It seemed we had finally turned Spanish – a little late perhaps! After our siesta we came downstairs to leave however the front french doors that led into the foyer would not open. But Monsieur, hovering in the foyer, sprung to and opened them for us, explaining that there was some noisy construction taking place next door and as he did not want our siesta disturbed he had tied the door knobs together!
While he had us captive he helpfully pointed out that if we wanted our room cleaned and linen replaced we would need to leave our key with him the following day, as there was only one key to our door!
The next day we left the key and returned to find the bedspread fancily arranged, with my super-sized t-shirt, courtesy of Singapore Airlines lost luggage service, taking pride of place in the middle of the bed.
This was doubly funny because we had taken almost all of our clothing to the laundry, but I had kept that shirt so that I would have something to wear in case of an emergency, like the clothes being late, or heaven forbid, lost. So it was not even a clean t-shirt that graced our bed.
Walking up into the wardrobe-bathroom area I smiled as I stepped over Marty’s thongs, now arranged neatly in the middle of the step. Thank goodness they were brand new Nike thongs and not his old ones that finally went to thong heaven in the Sahara. By the way, I am talking about thongs as in flip flops or jandals, people, not underwear!
My toiletries previously strewn all over the shelf were now standing to attention, and a saucer had been provided for the soap. We were feeling just a little bit spoilt, (even if Marty had to do a fix-it job on the shower head to stop it hanging limply against the wall!)
Strange… there was an item of my clothing, wet and hanging from the shower rail… it hadn’t been there when I left. Later Marty discovered a decidedly damp shirt hanging on the clothes rack. Had the washing fairy, aka cook and cleaner, washed our remaining clothes for us – or had they inadvertently got wet during the room cleaning process!
I do so love staying in budget hotels – You never know what to expect!
Have you had any strange hotel experiences?
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jenny@atasteoftravel
I really enjoyed this post Jan on your quirky riad. It gives an insight into the people…trying to please at all times….except maybe for the cook! What a bargain!
Jan
I know Jenny, they were very thoughtful. When we first asked to change rooms Monsieur was hesitant and I thought they must have been full. But I think the problem may have been that they had prepared the room I had asked for and maybe fixed everything that was wrong in it, and then he had to think of which other room may be good to put us in. I felt bad for changing (but I needed good wifi) so I asked Marty to fix the shower so that I would not have to mention it! Thankfully it was easy to fix, don’t know how long it will last though. Such fun!
Michele @ Malaysian Meanders
This post really gave me a feel for what your stay was like. It’s definitely more interesting than staying at a chain hotel. Looks charming, too.
Jan
Hi Michelle, I agree totally. It was unique in that there were three floors of rooms on four sides of the courtyard and we were the only guests! Jan
Mary @ The World Is A Book
I love that they were such gracious hosts (except maybe for the cook). That is bargain at whole new level. I’ve never stayed anywhere that cheap and with great service and with food too. Quirky but lucky find
Jan
Hi Mary, Ha ha – the cook was fine, although she thought I was weird I guess. She was also the cleaner and fairy clothes washer! Jan
Aleah | SolitaryWanderer.com
Really quirky indeed. I would have been freaked out if I found the door knob tied! Nice account though. Maybe I’ll look them up when I get the chance to visit that riad 😀
Jan
Hi Aleah, I would have been freaked if Monsieur had not been just on the other side waiting for us! I think we could have got out easily though because it was tied very loosely with a fair bit of play. If we had pushed on them I am sure they would have parted. Happy Travels. Jan
Jackie Smith
We always opt for the quirky, cheaper budget hotels, but haven’t quite had the experience that you describe. What a fun post!
Jan
Great to hear you are a budget traveller Jackie. This is the quirkiest experience we have had. I think the thing is to view the little hiccups that occur in some budget places as fun and part of the experience. Jan
jade
I’d love this type of experience- definitely something more than the usual hotel! Fun times.
Jan
Hi Jade, We always stay in places like this. Only occasionally does it turn out not as good as expected. Cheers. Jan
InsideJourneys
Love this story. Did you ever figure out if they did the laundry?
BTW, you’re probably the first person I’ve heard who doesn’t like mint. Love fresh mint tea!
Jan
Thanks for commenting. No, we never did find out. I washed mine again just in case it just got wet during the cleaning of the bathroom! I know – I am weird with the mint tea! Jan
Lisa Wood
How funny about your t-shirt on the bed, thongs at the doorway and the wet clothes…so hope they didnt use those to clean with 🙂
At least you had the place to yourself, as well as fast meals. Incredible that they had the place cheaper than the internet prices, did they upgrade your rooms for you?
Different decor colours!
Jan
Hi Lisa, I am sure they did not use the wet clothes to clean with as they had lots of cleaning stuff. I would say either we had left them on the floor and they got wet accidentally or they were washed. It is quite common for them to drop the prices lower than a booking site. For this reason it is common for people to just book one night on the booking site and then negotiate for a better price on arrival for the rest of the nights. I was happy with what we paid, so I did not bother trying for an upgrade (I think all the rooms were the same). Yes the colours were a bit out there – made it nice and bright. Jan
Cathy Sweeney
I’m not crazy about mint tea, either. Most minty things remind me of toothpaste. Enjoyed reading about your experience and the people you met at the hotel.
Jan
Ha Ha Cathy – that makes two of us! Thanks for commenting. Jan
Leigh
This sounds like a great place to stay for the money – even if it does have a cook with attitude. Was there no coffee to be found. I like mint tea but in small doses only.
Jan
Hi Leigh, It was a great place. Cook was very obliging – just could not figure the no mint thing. Definitely they have coffee, I just like tea for the first drink of the day. The fact that we did not speak French did not help! It was great when we were there because we were the only guests. We noticed at the riad in Marrakech that the noise gets funneled up as it has nowhere else to go, so this riad may get noisy when full because it had more rooms that the one in Marrakech. But then that would be a common problem. Of course more people means a more social environment which would be great as well. Budget hotels are so interesting. Jan