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Lewis Pass South Island of New Zealand

Road Trip New Zealands South Island Part 1

September 30, 2016 By Jan Robinson 22 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


The compact size and undoubtable beauty of New Zealand sets the scene for an unforgettable road trip. Forget long stretches behind the wheel on this adventure and be captivated by the impressive and lightning fast changes of scenery of the South Island.

Think of the grand scenery of Canada (10 million square kilometres) condensed into an island covering only 84,000 square kilometres! Green pastures… woolly sheep… sandy beaches… snowy peaks… rugged Lord of the Rings country… quaint country towns.

There are wild animal encounters, both organised and spontaneous with seals, dolphins and whales, great seafood and a list of adventure sports to keep your adrenalin pumping. There are glaciers to land on, gorges to bungee jump, thermal springs to luxuriate in and world class tracks to hike or in Kiwi speak tramp.

Oh and don’t forget those ski-fields and cosy fireplaces.
[pinit]

Road Trip around New Zealands South Island

Most people will tell you, of the two major islands of New Zealand, the South has the most stunning scenery. We have lots of Kiwi friends and they agree. Have you been to both? What did you think?

How Long Should I Allow?

We suggest at least two weeks for the South Island.

Hire a Vehicle.

Sedan or Campervan?

It really comes down to personal choice but we loved the campervan experience.

Why?

  • Being able to prepare a meal anywhere, anytime and with a stunning view.
  • Having accommodation on-board provides itinerary flexibility.
  • No daily packing and unpacking.
  • Just climb in the back for an after lunch siesta.
  • NZ Campgrounds are often geared to handle bad weather and offer campground camaraderie.  The one we chose at Franz Joseph had a huge kitchen with top of the range stoves, lounge with comfy chairs and log fire, loads of washing machines, clothes dryers and even a bar and hot tub. Of course not all campgrounds are created equal and the old adage – you get what you pay for applies. Some were very basic indeed, which leads me to my next point.

WikiCamps NZ. We are enthusiastic users of the WikiCamps Australia App. For the uninitiated this App is a crowd-sourced database of campsites, caravan parks, backpacker hostels and day stops. It hadn’t been born when we last visited NZ, but we look forward to using it in future.

As we’re just touring the South Island we’ll start and finish the road trip in it’s quake-shake Capital of Christchurch. This is where your flight will land and the town is geared toward travellers. There are motels close-by the airport and a selection of Car Hire Places. The airport is located on the northern outskirts of the city, which fits in nicely with our itinerary.

Christchurch.

The cathedral’s future is uncertain.

Christchurch Cathedral New Zealand

The Cathedral was the city’s much loved landmark and tourist draw-card, until the 2011 Earthquakes damaged it so badly, that the Anglican Church was in favour of knocking it down and building anew.

The ensuing debate divided the community. In 2015 with no decision yet made on the Cathedral’s future, the government stepped in and appointed a negotiator. It was decided the church would be saved – only nothing has happened to date.

Christchurch Cathedral Damage New Zealand

Kaikoura – Dolphins, Seals and Whales

Kaikoura on the coast north of Christchurch, is the place to go for dolphin/seal swimming experiences, whale watching boat tours and seafood extravaganzas. If like us you miss the boat tour, be sure to walk along the headland track to view the multitude of seals sunning themselves on the exposed rocks beneath (bring binoculars). The cliff top walk offers great views or it is possible to rock walk at sea-level.

Kaikoura in the South Island of New Zealand

Failing this, the road north of Kaikoura hugs the coast with opportunities to watch seals sun-bathing while their pups play in nursery rock pools left by the tide.

Seal sun-baking north of Kaikoura New Zealand

Picton.

As well as providing the ferry connection to the North Island, Picton is a departure point for dolphin swim and view trips within in the calm waters of the Marlborough sounds.

Picton Harbour New Zealand

Havelock, Pelorus Sound and the Queen Charlotte Track.

The scenery on the drive from Picton to Havelock is a water colour mix of greeny-blues and up-downs. Across the sound, Queen Charlotte Track, one of New Zealand’s most beautiful walks has water connections from Picton.  Just looking at those mountains made my calf muscles ache, but evidently the 3-5 day walk has a moderate fitness level rating. The track is undulating ranging from sea-level to 400 metres and is open to mountain bikes.

The expansive Pelorus Sound wowed me much like Australia’s Sydney Harbour does.

Pelorus Sound

Pelorus Sound one of the Marlborough Sounds South Island of New Zealand

Havelock, a small town at the head of the Sound, is known for Greenshell Mussels and we sampled a variety of flavours at the Mussel Pot – and yes they were delectable. Other Seafood is served and there is a lovely timber dining deck off one side. Mussel boat trips leave from Havelock harbour.

Mussel Pot Havelock New Zealand

We waved goodbye to a sunny Havelock but just half an hour later the mountain road was swathed in dark clouds and rain. The drive was atmospheric and suspenseful, but the weather cleared in time for our next stop – Nelson’s Saturday market. This smallish market punched above it’s weight. While I collected gifts, Marty used his superior coffee tracking skills to grab us some caffeine and muffins. Then it was full steam ahead for another National Park.

Wine in the South Island.

OK, there was one slight diversion. The Marlborough region south of Picton is the Sauvignon Blanc capital of New Zeland (Oyster Bay I’m looking at you), but we picked up a Pinot Gris on the way to Abel Tasman, at Rimu Grove and enjoyed a van picnic with this view.

Vineyards New Zealand

Mapua Wharf

Across Tasman Bay from Rimu Grove on Waimea Estuary, is Mapua Wharf with it’s interesting collection of speciality shops, galleries, restaurants, bars and cafés. The Smokehouse, hot smokes mussels and local fish in traditional brick kilns with shavings from the native Manuka tree.

Mapua, Tasman Bay, New Zealand

Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park New Zealand

Abel Tasman is the smallest but most visited National park in New Zealand. The Track itself is not strenuous and takes 3 to 5 days to complete. The hike can be broken up into hiking, kayaking and water-taxi segments, with endless mix and match possibilities. Or – just cruise the park in style by catamaran. The Department of Conservation has four hiking huts en-route (book in advance), or camp under the stars or stay at comfy lodges at Awaroa and Torrent Bays. It’s easy to see why the Abel Tasman is so popular.

On the southern end of the park, Kaiteriteri Beach is the place to hire kayaks or board a water taxi to the beginning of your walk.

Kaiteriteri Beach Abel Tasman National Park New Zealand

From Abel Tasman head south on the picturesque Motueka Valley Highway, arriving two hours later at the 110 m long Buller Gorge swing-bridge.

 

As I had not yet challenged my fear of heights and moving structures, I declined to cross the gorge, but Marty happily walked the bridge and zip lined back.

Buller Gorge Suspension Bridge and Flying Fox.

Buller Gorge Swing Bridge and Zip Line New Zealand

Buller Gorge Swing Bridge and Zip Line New Zealand

Murchison

The longest swing-bridge in New Zealand, Buller is 14km west of Murchison, a town famous for it’s Class 2-4 Whitewater. Take a break at Murchison if you fancy rafting, jet boating, gold panning, fishing or mountain biking. Or check out this cute church.

NZ Anglican Church of St. Paul’s in Murchison

Anglican Church of St. Paul's Murchison, New Zealand

Maruia Falls

23km south of Murchison these falls were created when rocks blocked the original channel during the 1929 earthquake.

Maruia Falls 23km south of Murchison were created by the 1929 Murchison earthquake when a slip blocked the original channel, Murchison, New Zealand.

Thermal Springs.

Along Highway 7, which links Nelson on the north coast to Christchurch in the east, or Charleston and Greymouth in the west, are Maruia Thermal Springs.

The springs are in a secluded valley in the Lewis Pass National Park with views to forested mountains and snow capped peaks. The first timber bathing hut was built in 1904 and when we visited in 2008 the Japanese Ogino family offered an Onsen bathing experience. In 2015 a New Zealand and Australian partnership purchased the springs, describing them now as a Pure New Zealand experience.

 

Maruia Hot Springs in New Zealands South Island

During our visit the internal baths were segregated but now all areas are communal. I enjoyed the long communal foot tub situated on the verandah, where we sat fully dressed, our eyes soaking in the mountains and our feet in hot spring-water. The outside circular rock pools differed in size and temperature.

Tip. Remove silver jewellery as the water darkens and dulls the silver.

Cost. All day Adult Pass $25. Family $65.

Another thermal activity town between Maruia and Queenstown is the well-known Hanmer Springs. Whereas Maruia is a secluded spot, Hanmer is a pretty cashed up looking resort town with a ski-field in Winter. We were all soaked out by the time we got to Hamner so didn’t try the Springs themselves.

Cost.  Similar to Maruia Thermal Springs.

Lewis Pass.

What a beautifully wild place. We couldn’t resist brewing up a hot drink and enjoying the view.

Lewis Pass South Island of New Zealand

 

 

Next week in Part 2 we zig zag east toward Christchurch, then back through spectacular alps scenery to the west coast before finishing on the highest main road in New Zealand. See you then.

Thanks for visiting, I really appreciate it and would love you to add your travel post to the link below for Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday which I co-host with Ruth from Tanama Tales and  Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.

Have you done a campervan trip? Tell me about it!

Related Post.

Part 2 of a Road Trip around the South Island of New Zealand.

An InLinkz Link-up


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Filed Under: Itineraries, New Zealand / Pacific, Road Trips

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Upeksha

    September 30, 2016 at 7:30 am

    Looks amazing. I’ve always wanted to go to New Zealand and wondered which island to visit first, and now I know 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:49 pm

      Yes the south island is a wonderful place to start!

      Reply
  2. Nancie

    September 30, 2016 at 7:46 am

    Hi Jan. Beautiful scenery! I spent a week on the North Island back in 1980 (cough!). My two highlights were Rotarua, and Cape Regina. I did a bus tour up the 90 Mile Highway. I remember our bus stopping on the beach so we could dig clams. That was a novel experience! I love NZ mussels, so I’d be happy with a few plates along the way. I’d love to get back someday, and spend enough time to see both islands. Thanks for co-hosting this week. #TPThursday

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:49 pm

      One day we’ll get to the North Island Nancie – but the south is just so damned beautiful!

      Reply
  3. Kathy Marris

    September 30, 2016 at 10:22 am

    It was good to get a glimpse of the northern parts of the South Island. On all three trips we have had to NZ we have headed south of Christchurch so not covered this area. NZ is a magical place and I agree that it is like a miniature version of Canada. 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:48 pm

      We always like to see a bit of everywhere – couldn’t resist driving north!

      Reply
  4. Ruth

    September 30, 2016 at 1:28 pm

    Jan, you are my road trip super hero! I am looking forward to next week. I am already captivated by the pictures you have posted. I agree a campervan is the way to go!

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:47 pm

      Road trips are so good Ruth. I’m glad you enjoy them too.

      Reply
  5. Jackie Smith

    September 30, 2016 at 3:36 pm

    As always I love the journeys you take me on and this one is no exception. The Mussel Pot calls out to me. And so glad they voted to save that wonderful old church. . .someday, anyway!

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:47 pm

      Stay tuned in the next few weeks Jackie – there will be more.

      Reply
  6. Jan Wild

    September 30, 2016 at 3:51 pm

    What a fabulous trip and itinerary, we love New Zealand but to date have only travelled there on business. It’s definitely on the bucket list, such beautiful countryside, lovely people and great food and wine 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:46 pm

      Gosh how tantalasing – being there on business without a chance to road trip! Impossible.

      Reply
  7. Sharon Wagner

    October 1, 2016 at 12:04 am

    oh, that seal pup is adorable.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 1, 2016 at 7:45 pm

      Lots of seal encounters to be had in the south island Sharon!

      Reply
  8. RhondaAlbom

    October 3, 2016 at 9:56 pm

    Nice start to your road trip. I have spent many weeks traveling the South Island and it is a remarkable palce.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 5, 2016 at 7:43 pm

      It really packs a punch for such a small place. Lucky you being able to visit often.

      Reply
  9. Pinky Poinker

    October 6, 2016 at 4:18 pm

    I’ve never been to the South Island but I really do want to go there. I can’t bear to cross suspension bridges either. I was never afraid of heights as a child but I am now. Good on Marty, he’s a legend.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 6, 2016 at 7:24 pm

      Ha ha – I won’t tell him that!

      Reply
  10. Krista Bjorn

    October 12, 2016 at 1:31 pm

    What a stunningly beautiful place, Jan! I love the wild pictures best. They make me think of Canada. 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 12, 2016 at 2:59 pm

      Yes the similarities between N.Z. and Canada is obvious to me too.

      Reply
  11. Frank

    October 25, 2016 at 8:32 pm

    Great photos, NZ is a place we’d like to see someday. The geography is gorgeous…and New Zealand Cabernet Francs are some of the best I’ve had anywhere (but they don’t come cheap in Canada!)

    Frank (bbqboy)

    Reply

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