Rustem Pasha, Istanbul’s hidden mosque, is a delightful find and if I were to live in Istanbul I know it would draw me back time and again.
[pinit]
Following an effortlessly balanced tray of simit, we squeezed down Hasircilar Caddesi, a street that comes to life on the edge of the colourful Istanbul Spice Market, Misir Carsisi.
Somewhere in that street, between the stalls selling timber and cane wear, pots and bling, lies the hidden entrance of the Rustem Pasha mosque. Hidden because the mosque is set back a little and built above vaulted shops that hide it from the street below.
Sometimes it is necessary to dive into a shop entrance to let market traffic through the space challenged sreet.
Less than five minutes after leaving the Spice Market we spy a doorway on the right. Could this be it? Climbing the stairs and reaching a terrace, we were still not sure – then we turned and saw the five domed portico and knew we had arrived.
Rustem Pasha to whom the mosque is dedicated, was son-in-law to Suleymaniye the Magnificent and his Grand Vizier – the equivalent of a modern day prime minister. After his death in 1561 work began on the mosque.
One point of view suggests that even though he was extremely wealthy, his mosque could not be placed in a position to rival that of his employer. Hence it’s position hidden away in the market area, at the base of the very hill that the Suleymaniye Mosque dominates.
Rustem was born in the Krka river port of Skradin in Croatia and lived there until he was six years old. You can read our post on Skradin HERE.
The circular rows of lights suspended on high, hang low over the carpeted prayer area, providing equal light for all worshippers.
I was intrigued by those rings of glass lights and noticed they contained energy saving globes. In 2008 the Turkish Religious Affairs Directorate ordered 895,390 energy efficient bulbs to be fitted in 80,013 mosques leading to a 65% energy saving. I wonder who supplied that many bulbs!
Mimar (Architect) Sinan was an enormously gifted and popular architect and although the mosque he designed was small, the interior and exterior were decorated with 2,300 tiles from the town of Iznik on the banks of Lake Iznik 90km south-east of Istanbul as the crow flies. Although the majority of the tiles were blue, they included red – considered very hard to achieve by tile makers of the day. The collection also contained purple and sage green tiles from the earlier “Damascus Ware” period.
The tiles featured geometric designs and flowers.
- Over the years some broken/stolen tiles were replaced with randoms, adding an eclectic charm to the walls.
- The red flower in the second photo below is Turkeys National Flower – the tulip – portrayed throughout Turkey.
- Identical rows of pillar tiles meet at the corner.
The Tulip flower is depicted on everything from pottery to carpet in Turkey and we purchased a pottery plate with delicate painted tulips from Avanos, in Cappadocia.
What Rustem Pasha’s mosque lacks in size and position is more than made up for by it’s exquisite tile collection.
This mosque is where I find myself, when daydreams lead me back to Istanbul.
I was in awe of the grand Blue Mosque and the monumental Hagia Sofia, but I fell in love with the quiet tiled mosque hidden away in a busy market street.
Jan Robinson Budget Travel Talk
Another view of the Mosque peeking above the surrounding buildings.
There is no doubt that Rustem Pasha is an alluring mosque, but history tells us that Rustem Pasha the man was not. His nickname of “The Louse of Fortune” alluded to the fact that on the eve of his marriage he was discovered to be crawling with lice, while his fortune was said to have been boosted by bribes.
Things to Know:
The mosque can be visited anytime except during prayers. Prayer times vary with the season but basically correspond with Dawn, Mid-day, Afternoon, Sunset and Last Light. The main entrance in the middle of the front portico is used at prayer time.
For the tourist entrance continue to the far end and turn right, where a mosque attendant will direct you. The roped off and signed area is strictly for prayer.
A visit to Rustem Pasha Mosque could be combined with the New Mosque, The Suleymaniye Mosque, the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar. As the Grand Bazaar and Suleymaniye Mosque are on top of a hill it would make sense to begin at the top and work down. We chose to visit Rustem Pasha first, even before the Blue Mosque and it proved to be a wonderful introduction to the land of Turkish mosques.
Transport. The Spice Bazaar, New Mosque and Rustem Pasha Mosque are within easy walking distance of the transport hub of Eminonu on the southern end of the Galata Bridge. Ferries, Trains, Trams and Busses all have stops at Eminonu.
Nancie from Budget Travelers Sandbox is hosting Travel Photo Thursday where she has some crazy fantastic photos of the Chinese Opera in Penang.
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Amazing decoration…
Thanks Lily. It is amazing that the tiles are mostly in tact seeing they were laid in 1561. 🙂
For starters, thank you for “my” map! 🙂 I looked up with simit is and yes I will most definitely have some! I’m wondering if that is some sort of spread or something in that container that is also on the tray? I love how you led up to and leaded us down that busy market alley way to all of sudden find that gloriously beautiful Rustem Pasha mosque! Wow! Jan, when you were trying to find your way around did you come across folks that spoke English? I’ve become so curious about the answer to that question while you guys are traveling in foreign countries. Great post, our friend! 🙂
I noticed the tub on the tray of Simit too Mike. I am thinking it is the Turkish equivalent of Nutella – that would taste good. We found people who dealt with tourists could speak some English. After we left the mosque we asked a young Syrian man which street to take to the Suleymaniye Mosque and he could speak English. All pansiyon owners/managers spoke English too. Turkish people are so helpful, even if they can’t speak English they will find someone who can or find some way to help. It was rare to find people with whom to have a conversation though, although we managed several. 🙂
Oh that’s great that they are so helpful even if there is a language barrier at times. Nutella on Simit?? Oh my gosh YES! 🙂
Some awesome pictures!!
I really like that opening photo of the man balancing the tray of simit on his head. I also noticed that tub of yummy spread with it. That circle of hanging lights is beautiful. I imagine it must have taken a long time to light back when they used candles instead of energy saving light bulbs. I am really enjoying your Turkish adventures.
Wouldn’t you just love the tiles for your own bathroom or a wall in an al fresco area! I would! Loved the idea of it being in a market and wow, the photos of the interior are fabulous. I know how hard it is to snap good photos of such large and intricate ‘scapes.
As you know, Rustem Pasha is my favourite mosque too. I can’t get enough of the stunning Iznik tiles and go back every time we’re in Istanbul. It’s such a peaceful retreat from the busy market streets that surround it. Great photos!
I do know it is your favourite Jenny. In fact I re read your post as I was doing mine and you said in it that you visit it each time you return (as I would). That started me thinking that you might be revisiting it again soon. Say hello for me 🙂
Oh gosh, this mosque is so pretty! Whenever I see pics of Istanbul, I’m just so amazed that even little mosques hidden away down a little street are still so gorgeous and ornate! I love all the blue tile in this one!
How unusual to have a mosque in a market. Beautiful. I can see why you like it. I have to make it to Turkey one of these days.
Jan, I, too, love Rustem Pasha. The first time I visited was on a school trip when I was 14 and the teacher made it seem so magical and hidden and special. I go whenever I’m in Istanbul. I didn’t know the fact about the energy saving light bulbs. Interesting.
What a great find! That mosque is just stunning. But, I also enjoyed the back story. I love those tiles. Beautiful photos!
I still can’t get over how many light saving light bulbs were ordered! And changed over 😉
The mosque is incredible, the interior {the tiles} are stunning. I would so be dreaming of being there too!
It doesn’t stand thinking about changing them all Lisa does it. Sort of like a nightmare in fact 🙂
This mosque looks beautiful and I just love the fact that they replace missing tiles with completely random ones, makes it a lot more interesting and unique.
Such a great little mosque Catherine and you’re right the randoms bring a smile.
I loved Istanbul when we visited in 2012. I found it to be so interesting, particularly the history of the place. I never found this hidden mosque though.
I knew of it’s existence but it was still fun finding it Kathy. I am glad you loved Istanbul too – maybe everyone loves Istanbul?
It’s seriously one of the coolest in Istanbul isn’t it? I walked right under it a couple of times before I even noticed it. Its a shame that its closed for the foreseeable future though.
That is a shame Josh, but I guess in the scheme of things a couple of years restoration will keep it good for many years to come. I love this mosque so much.