If I were given the task of filing Sicily into a suitable Destination niche, I would struggle to categorise this island of contradictions.
After experiencing the Seductive Streets of Siracusa I might be tempted to slot this most beautiful city of the Ancient Greek Empire into the Enchanting Box.
But Ortigia Island, the historical centre of Siracusa is home to some sights with a definite Strange leaning.
Crossing over the causeway from Siracusa and turning left leads to the Eastern side of Ortigia and an interesting etched window on the corner of Via Trieste and Vittorio Venetto. An interesting and mysterious mix of Greco/Latin/Asian that defies description.
Our aim on this particular day was to walk along the extremities of the island, starting in the east and staying as close to the sea walls as possible. While the centre of the island is tightly packed with historical buildings, after leaving Rist Cinese, we quickly came upon a wasteland of concrete, that defied description. A carpark that appeared deserted lurked beneath this brutalist slab of concrete. It filled the area between a large and smaller breakwater and was home to rusted seats, planters and a playground from hell.
Only the wildest of flowers survive here.
Abandoned playground.
Looking back to mainland Siracusa.
Marty peering into the abyss, the larger of the breakwaters in the background.
Continuing on through some city gates and still clinging to the sea edge, things became more normal.
Steel ladders scale the seawalls periodically, either for sailors to ascend or swimmers to descend, but then we reached the swimming platform at Via Nizza, being refurbished ready for the deluge of sun-worshippers.
Swimming Platforms look strange, but in fact are a practical solution to the lack of natural beach areas in Ortigia. There is however a pebble beach accessed by steps opposite Royal Maniace Hotel at 12 Lungomare d’Ortigia a little further along this walk.
Another unusual sight was discovered in 1989, 18 metres beneath the Residenza Alla Giudecca hotel in Via Alagona, Eastern Ortigia, close to the sea walls. Back in 1492 when Ferdinand the Catholic from Spain became ruler of Sicily, half the population of Ortigia was Jewish. Ferdinand issued the decree that Jews were to convert or die and many decided to leave. Before fleeing however they filled the baths, used for purification ceremonies, not normal bathing, with a mix of fine sand and rubble smuggled into the cellar, to avoid detection. In a final bid to keep the baths secret, they sealed the entrance, hoping to one day to return.
It was only when the building was being restored nearly 500 years later that the baths were found. Two years after their discovery the natural purifying springs which lie 2 metres beneath sea level were finally cleared of fill. Our guide at the baths (5 euro entry) agreed that there is a strong likelihood of more undiscovered baths beneath the city.
Via Alagona 52 (at the entrance to the “Residenza della Giudecca”) Tickets 5 Euro. Steep ancient stone stairs are the only entrance. A little claustrophobic. Guide speaks first in Italian and then in English and answers questions.
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So interesting, the story of the fleeing Jews. I love places where there’s a possibility of undiscovered secrets.
Imagine the effort it took to fill the baths discreetly when it took two years to clear them Sophie!
The shape of these baths intrigues me. I have not seen ancient baths this shape before. Have you seen others this shape in your travels?
No, these were a first for me Annette.
Such a charming area with such an interesting history … great pics too
So true about the history involved Rachel!
Since we have been travelling in Latin America, vast and weird concrete deserts don’t appear that strange to us anymore. You find them, to some extent, in almost every city in every country. Often some grand plans, which have gone downhill due to lack of maintenance or lack of funding. All part of the corruption where some of the initial construction money disappeared into some deep pockets and left nothing for upkeep.
Yes, I believe Sicily is full of such sites and initially I thought this might be one, but I believe it is actually a carpark beneath. Still it is rather stark on top for a space challenged area. :/ Thanks for commenting Juergen.
That is a scary playground. The water is such a lovely colour. Can people use the baths now or are they just for display?
That playground is like from a horror movie isn’t? You could definitely swim from the platform. I took a photo on another day when it was being used. The water was way too cold for the likes of us Pinky! Brrrrr Although now that you live in a cloud you may have to rethink your tolerance levels for swimming in cold water lol.
Interesting walk Jan. I’m not sure whether Siracusa beaches quiet come up to our standard here in Australia! Looks like you really got out and about and explored this wonderful place.
Siracusa definitely does not have good beaches, only a pebbly one but to the south is a national park area which I think has some better ones. We are so spoiled in Australia!
We’ve never been in Sicily yet. It looks warm and dry which is very appealing after a winter in the UK 😉
I believe there are cheap flights to Sicily from England!
Although you came upon some ugly scenes, I think it adds to the travel experience, particularly in not just documenting the bold and the very beautiful. The playground did indeed look scary, and the concrete – a nasty urban offshoot – but they balance what I’m sure are some other very pretty scenes in Siracusa. I loved the thought that there might be more baths to be discovered.
Exactly Jo, I like showing the not so pretty places at an otherwise gorgeous destination.
yeah, very curious. like some sort of ghost place. #weekend wanderlust
What an intersting historic sea side town to visit.
Wow that playground looks eerie, is it never ever used any more?Seems so very strange.
Love the idea of natural baths under the buildings, are they able to be used or just to look at?
Just for looking at Lisa. 🙂 I don’t think that playground is in use at all.
I found the walk around Ortygia fascinating. Yes, the concrete carpark was unusual to say the least but the views and the every day sights from the rest of the walk were interesting. I hadn’t seen a Mikvah before so I was intrigued with this and its history!
Hi Jenny I have a lot more photos of Siracusa, I shall have to dream up another post to share some more lol. The Jewish Baths were intriguing. I can’t imagine them being filled in clandestinely and then taking two years to dig it all out again.
This really is an interesting landscape – it’s stark and very interesting. I’m not surprised that it holds a secret. Unique shaped baths, for sure.
Yes Marcia they are unique in my admittedly limited experience. I wonder if this is a typical shape for Jewish Purification baths?
It’s not about the shape, it’s about having stairs going down into the mikveh for easy access.
That is a lot of concrete! Is that part of Siracusa around the playground abandoned? It looks like a ghost town.
No Rachel, it isn’t abandoned – strange sights lol!
I really like the story of the Jewish purifying baths. Did you give them a try? The rest of the island does, as you point out, seem a bit strange. Is it very popular with tourists?
Sicily is very popular with tourists Michele, mostly not to the extremes of say the Amalfi Coast, although Taormina is in the same league. It is not possible to swim in the purifying baths although the water looked extremely clear and clean (as you would expect) – I bet it was cold though.