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Bribirska Ulica Zagreb

Self Guided Walking Tour Zagreb OR GYG Zagreb Walking Tours

October 2, 2015 By Jan Robinson 24 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


We wrestled with how best to experience the Croatian capital of Zagreb.  The Airbnb apartment was booked, but besides Mirogoj Cemetery, the Cafes, wide avenues and grand buildings, our wish list was sketchy. After reading Andrea’s Croatia Honestly blog, everything just fell into place. We would do a self guided walking tour. Zagreb came to life for us!

Mirogoj Cemetery

Zagreb Mirogoj Cemetery

The Art Pavilion – One of Zagreb’s Grand Buildings.

Zagreb Art Pavilion

Andrea shares walks with a difference and we chose her Leafy Zagreb and Along the Sava walks, but another one – Romantic Zagreb – which takes in the best kissing points in town could be fun too. 

—————————————————————-

What You Will Find in This Post

  • A quick note for those who prefer a guided Zagreb Walking Tour
  • Rediscover Urban Wilderness Parks in Zagreb and wander the streets of Leafy Zagreb on a Free Walking Tour Zagreb
    • Leave the parks behind and walk through the Streets of Leafy Zagreb.
    • Visit the oldest Cafe in Zagreb – Caffe Palainovka
    • Visit St. Marks Church, the Historic Funicular Zagreb and Lotrscak Tower
    • Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships Zagreb
    • Where is Dolac Market Zagreb
  • Free Walking Tour Zagreb – explore your Zagreb Neighbourhood
  • Walk beside the Sava River Zagreb
    • Along the Sava – Homage to the Socialist Zagreb.
    • More from my site

A quick note for those who prefer a guided Zagreb Walking Tour

  • We recommend Get Your Guide Zagreb Walking Tours.
  • If you are travelling in a group this Private Group Zagreb Walking Tour can accommodate the needs of your group and has excellent Reviews.
  • For Singles or Doubles this Zagreb Guided Walking Tour is hugely popular and great value as it includes a ride on the Funicular.

—————————————————————-

 

Suddenly I became very relaxed about planning and more excited about walking.

It seemed that Suzana the host of our Airbnb Apartment agreed with our walking philosophy. She spoke to us about neighbourhood living, more specifically the tradition of shopping for fresh food daily at market, using the modern innovation of the Fresh Milk Vending Machine and walking instead of using the tram in order to investigate the small local shops.

 
Having arrived in Zagreb very early in the day, we left our luggage at the apartment to go exploring, arriving back to a gorgeous vase of welcoming flowers.  We jelled instantly with Suzana and it was comforting to know she was only a phone call away.

Rediscover Urban Wilderness Parks in Zagreb and wander the streets of Leafy Zagreb on a Free Walking Tour Zagreb

This walk starts in the city centre along Tuškanak Forest Road and Dubravnik Put (Way) eventually meeting up with Jurjevska Street. Finding the imposing statue of Miroslav Krleža, the famous/infamous Croatian poet, novelist, and play-write, confirmed we were on route. I found Miroslav’s pose reminiscent of Winston Churchill, Britian’s wartime prime minister.  Krleža’s Biography is a worthwhile read.

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Find this statue of the famous/infamous Croatian Writer Miroslav Krleža on a self guided walking tour Zagreb

 

http://honestly.hr/zagreb-alternative-guide/page/2/

Zagreb Leafy Walk Graffiti

On Jurjevska Street, at the top of Debravnik Put, the Domes of Mirogoj Cemetery peek out from the opposing hilltop. 

Zagreb Domes of Mirogoj Cemetery

Leave the parks behind and walk through the Streets of Leafy Zagreb.

Jurjevska Street is home to Villas from the early 20th Century. Some are ramshackle, bordered by crumbling concrete and rusty iron gates while others more affluent, stand behind solid new versions.  

While the leafy Park section of the walk was gently upward sloping with some stairs, the Jurjevska section was all downhill.

I covet these gates and imagine them restored.

Old Villa Gate Zagreb

Zagreb Jurjevska Street Old Villa

Zagreb Jurjevska Street yellow building

Meanwhile on the other side of the street.

Zagreb Jurjevska Street Quirky Home

Visit the oldest Cafe in Zagreb – Caffe Palainovka

Still on the walk, the oldest Cafe in Zagreb inhabits the corner of Jurjevska, Ilirski Trg and Radiceva Ul.  The terrace of Cafe Palainovka is a well known daytime meeting point for coffee or wine and a popular night spot. Sitting beneath the leafy trees on the terrace with another coffee seemed like the perfect thing to do. 

Under the trees at Cafe Palainovka.

See Zagreb Palainovka on a free walking tour Zagreb

Visit St. Marks Church, the Historic Funicular Zagreb and Lotrscak Tower

To the right the walk continues through the Museum district via St. Marks Church to the historic funicular and 13th Century Lotrščak Tower from where a cannon is fired every mid-day.

Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships Zagreb

I’d read some positive reports of the close-by Museum of Broken Relationships, which led to us breaking our no museum rule, but reading all those heart-broken memoirs left me feeling maudlin. In true Croatian style the museum boasted a popular cafe and looking around at the many kava sipping couples, I wondered if they were secretly reflecting on their own relationships and if any actually broke-up while there.

Zagreb St. Marks Church

With St. Mark’s Church and it’s square behind you can see down to the box shaped tower.

Zagreb Upper Town and Lotrscak Tower

Beside the tower there are views to the lower town and the Funicular that dates back to 1890.

Zagreb Rooftops from the Upper Town

Zagreb Historic Cable Car Carriage

Where is Dolac Market Zagreb

Beneath the old town and Dolac Market is the Jelačić plac or as it is simply known Trg (the square).  It is a grand meeting place that accommodates masses of people and the main tram line too.  The comparison of size between people and buildings in this photo shows the grand scale of the square itself.

Zagreb Trg (square) buildings

Taking the left fork in the road back at Palainovka (cafe), leads along Radiceva Ul toward the beautiful Zagreb Cathedral and bustling Dolac Market. 

Zagreb Cathedral.

Zagreb Cathedral

Free Walking Tour Zagreb – explore your Zagreb Neighbourhood

Wherever you are staying in Zagreb, get to know the area by walking around it and taking a different street each time.

Ask your Airbnb host for interesting places to see nearby.

In our neighbourhood, a walk around the block revealed the impressive Gradsko Kazaliste Tresnja theatre on Selska Cesta.  

It is amazing the sights to be seen when walking in your local neighbourhood in Zagreb!

Zagreb's Gradsko Kazaliste Tresnja

This was “our” street in Zagreb.

Bribirska Ulica Zagreb

Walk beside the Sava River Zagreb

To get into the spirit of things, we first walked along the banks of the Sava River.

Midway down Ulica Tina Ujeviča were tall apartment blocks and a bustling shopping area on street level.  With no less than four hairdressers in the space of one block, I started noticing that everyone did indeed have a tidy haircut. The community feel was infectious with full cafes and old men playing card games in the park. Our Cafe accompanied their kava with a gratis orange flavoured drink reminiscent of Tang. I discovered later that a Cedevita, a similar to Tang, is offered to guests in Croatian homes. 

Another mystery of Croatia for us was the lack of cakes on offer in the Cafes.  The two are inseparable as far as we’re concerned so we adopted the practice of buying cakes at the bakery and taking them to the Cafe. I never saw anyone else do this but the Cafe owners didn’t object.

Bribirska Ul. to the Sava River.

Zagreb Walk Budget Travel Talk

Along the Sava – Homage to the Socialist Zagreb.

A wide track runs unimaginatively straight along the Sava River’s levee bank, but another unofficial one has been worn beneath the equally unimaginative line of soldier like trees. We, along with a couple of Joggers and dog walkers used this unofficial path to shelter from the blazing sun and 29 degrees C at the end of May – Spring in Zagreb. Oversized statues stretch between two bridges, the Savski Most and another un-named one on Većeslava Holjevca Avenue.

Savski Most.

Zagreb Savski Most

Zagreb Sava River Bridge

Shortly after joining the river path, just past Savski Most is a barge converted to a bar.

Zagreb Sava River Banks

The river was tame and disinteresting when we were there but in 1964 it caused monstrous flooding. This flooding and the Soviet reminders might explain the lack of interest locals have traditionally shown in the river, but I was happy the statues have been left to their own devices on the banks of the Sava.  

Zagreb Sava River Statues

Eye catching art on the second bridge at Većeslava Holjevca Avenue. Beneath the bridge, I chuckled at the cars parked neatly around a no parking sign.

Zagreb Sava River Art

If you are lucky enough to be in the city for Zagreb Day on 1st June, ask at Tourist Information Centres for any special events. In 2015 there was a free performance of the Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra in Dr. Franjo Tudjman Park.  

Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra

 

This blog is linked to Nancie’s Budget Travelers Sandbox for Travel Photo Thursday. Nancie has shifted back to Seoul and I am loving her shift!

I’ve also linked to Noel at Travel Photo Discovery for Travel Photo Mondays. Noel is an awesome Photographer.  Have you seen his work?

An InLinkz Link-up


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Filed Under: Airbnb, Croatia, Destination, Self Guided Walking Tours

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Ruth - Tanama Tales

    October 2, 2015 at 2:14 pm

    You surprised me with your photos. The city has tons of stuff to see. I love to walk around cities too. It is my favorite way to get to know a place.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 6:03 pm

      Ha ha – I like surprising 🙂

      Reply
  2. Rachel Heller

    October 2, 2015 at 4:12 pm

    What beautiful photos of Zagreb! Walking is definitely the way to go when you’re exploring a new city. I like to make a general plan, but often stray from it if something interesting presents itself.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 6:03 pm

      What is a plan if not to stray from lol.

      Reply
  3. Muza-chan

    October 2, 2015 at 4:34 pm

    Beautiful…

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 6:04 pm

      Thanks Lily. 🙂

      Reply
  4. Pinky Poinker

    October 2, 2015 at 4:38 pm

    Fascinating stuff Jan. I shall share it on FB for some of my friends. I’ve never been to Croatia. Love the idea of a museum for broken hearts. It must be a very romantic place 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 6:04 pm

      Thank you so much for sharing on facebook Pinky 🙂

      Reply
  5. Jenny P

    October 2, 2015 at 4:56 pm

    What a beautiful city to walk around. Wonderful photos. I felt like I was walking along with you.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 6:04 pm

      I’m happy that you felt like you were walking with us!

      Reply
  6. Pinay Flying High

    October 2, 2015 at 8:22 pm

    Leafy Zagreb walk looks interesting, beautiful place! However, I must admit – I’m quite curious about the Romantic Zagreb. I wonder where it would lead you. :p

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 2, 2015 at 9:56 pm

      If you click on the link to Zagreb Honestly you will see where the walk takes you. 🙂 I think it is a great idea. I think Andrea did it for Valentines Day. 🙂

      Reply
  7. jenny@atasteoftravel

    October 4, 2015 at 12:06 am

    Mirogoj Cemetery was one of the highlights of Zagreb for me. The history, the arched colonnades and the sculptured headstones fascinated me. Zagreb is an easy walking town and taking a tour is always a great idea!

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 4, 2015 at 6:34 am

      I remembered that you went to Mirogoj Cemetery and put it on my list. We didn’t catch the bus from Trg and got a different one from the main bus station which dropped us a fair way from the Cemetery, so we had another unplanned and uphill walk on arrival. Needless to say we caught a bus from right outside on the way back lol.

      Reply
  8. Sophie

    October 6, 2015 at 8:42 pm

    Leafy city with interesting architecture! I’ve only been in Zagreb briefly, for work, many years ago. But even then, I got the impression this was an underrated city.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 6, 2015 at 9:30 pm

      That would have been interesting seeing it many years ago Sophie.

      Reply
  9. Irene S. Levine

    October 7, 2015 at 12:04 pm

    Walking is a wonderful way to explore any new city! Love the photos you took along the way~

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 7, 2015 at 12:12 pm

      Thanks for dropping by Irene 🙂

      Reply
  10. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    October 7, 2015 at 12:43 pm

    Zagreb is so beautiful. I really like all the mosaic work on the church and the theatre. I would have never guessed that you were showing us a cemetery since the structures are so elegant, and I saw nary a tombstone. The large statues by the river are interesting, particularly those upside down legs pointing up at the sky. My husband tells me that Croatia is a popular holiday spot for his Hungarian co-workers since it’s so economical. I can see that it’s beautifully captivating, too.

    Reply
    • Jan

      October 7, 2015 at 1:10 pm

      Croatia is extremely popular at the moment Michele, but most people visit the coast and islands. I’m happy that we chose to visit Zagreb as well. Zagreb is easy to get to by train from Ljublijana in Slovenia.

      Reply
  11. Frank

    February 21, 2016 at 3:23 am

    Nice photos – we were there for 5 days last summer (I think the 5 hottest days of the summer) and saw a lot of the above. Zagreb isn’t a spectacular city but it’s a place that I think would grow on you with time…a place that’s easy to live in. We’ll be back in Croatia in a few months and will come back and explore some more.
    By the way, the right Airbnb apartment goes a long way to determining how you feel about a city. We didn’t much like ours or the host and didn’t have a very good first impression…
    Frank (bbqboy)

    Reply
    • Jan

      February 21, 2016 at 3:42 am

      Yes the Airbnb host/apartment colours the whole experience – luckily ours was lovely. I agree there is nothing outstanding about Zagreb but I do feel it would be a good place to live and I would happily return, probably to experience a different season.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Lights Sounds and Scenes of the Croatian town of Zadar says:
    June 24, 2016 at 9:40 pm

    […] On the southern side was a mural depicting the famous now deceased Croatian singer, songwriter and politician Tomislav Ivčić, famous for his song Stop the war in Croatia, which surprisingly was a top ten hit in Australia in 1991. He died in a car accident aged 41 and is buried in the famous Mirogoj Cemetery in Zagreb. […]

    Reply
  2. Peaceful arcades at Mirogoj Cemetery Zagreb says:
    March 16, 2017 at 10:35 pm

    […] The landmark domes can be seen from Jurjevska Street on Cmrok the opposing hill, where we were the previous day. You can see that view and others from our Leafy Zagreb walk here. […]

    Reply

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