Asia is an exciting destination and Vietnam is one of it’s most interesting countries. The people are friendly and inquisitive (especially in the south), the food is packed with flavour and there are some beautiful natural sights. Food is very affordable, even in restaurants and decent accommodation is cheap. Although it can be said that travelling independently in Vietnam requires stamina and a sense of humour, the locals are always willing to laugh along with you. Our Vietnam Itinerary guides you through the best things to see and do in Vietnam and is broken up into Transport and Things to See and Do.
[pinit]Vietnam Weather.
The temperature is hot, everywhere except in the highlands, with Hanoi dropping to 17 degrees during winter. By highlands I mean the central highlands (Dalat) and the northern highlands bordering China (Sapa). It snowed in Sapa two weeks before we arrived in April and it was cold. Bring a not too heavy fleece and rain jacket if visiting the highlands. If you intend trekking Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam at 3,143 metres, that is a whole different kettle of fish. Fansipan is located 9 km southwest of Sa Pa Township and your trekking company would offer advice on those requirements.
Vietnam Itinerary – Transport.
At 1650km, Vietnam is a long narrow country and is usually visited vertically, North to South or the reverse.
Arrive in Hanoi.
Hanoi west to Sapa – overnight train.
Sapa to Hanoi – overnight train.
Hanoi east to Cat Ba Island in Lan Ha Bay by bus/boat/bus.
Cat Ba Island to Ninh Binh by bus/boat/bus (alternatively return to Hanoi from Cat Ba Island)
Daytrips around Ninh Binh by taxi and mini bus, or from Hanoi.
Ninh Binh to Danang (for Hoi An) by train.
Danang to Nha Trang by Vietnam Airlines.
Nha trang to Saigon (HCMC) by Vietnam Airlines.
Overnight buses are the cheapest form of transport but roads are chaotic making it difficult to relax, let alone sleep on a long distance bus.
With the exception of the private trains on the Sapa run, Vietnamese trains are not luxurious but a soft sleeper (4 berth cabin) is adequate, with room to move about and no traffic problems. You can find out more about train travel here.
We were very happy with our Vietnam Airlines flights. The planes were new and service efficient.
We recommend train and plane for long distance travel in Vietnam.
Vietnam Itinerary – Things to see and do.
Three Days in Hanoi
Adjust to Culture and traffic, Drink Bia Hoi on footpaths, try Vietnamese Coffee, familiarize yourself with the Old Quarter (Lonely Planet walk), visit temples, visit Uncle Ho’s mausoleum, West Lake, Cultural Museum, Water Puppets, Early morning and evening walks around Hoan Kiem lake. The streets around the lake are now pedestrianised on the week-ends which makes for a more pedestrian friendly experience.
Streets of Hanoi.
Bia Hoi in Hanoi
Bia Hoi is fresh beer, served from a keg and consumed on kid sized plastic chairs on the footpath. It is a must do experience.
Bia Hoi Corner Hanoi.
3 Days in Sapa with Trekking
Ethnic minority hill tribes, Trekking, Bac Ha Markets. Read about Sapa.
Rice Terraces, Sapa.
Sapa in the mist. Read more about it here.
Sapa was established by the French in 1922, high in the mountains of North-West Vietnam, near the Chinese Border. Thick mists roll over the town, often obscuring views of the iconic rice terraces. Sapa is a well known trekking base for the valleys.
1 day at Bac Ha Market – Sunday
Stay Saturday night at Bac Ha for an early market start, or arrive by mini bus from Sapa Sunday morning. The colourful dresses belong to the Flower Hmong ethnic minority group. Bac Ha is the largest such market in north-west Vietnam and is very much a locals market. Expect water buffalo, horses, rice whisky and everything a hill tribe person needs to survive to be on sale, plus some tourist orientated woven handbags, tablecloths etc.
Two Days in Hanoi
Return to Hanoi for a day or two before leaving for Cat Ba Island. Use these days to finish sight-seeing and explore more of the city. It’s amazing how returning to a city can make you feel like a local.
Three day Halong Bay or Three day Lan Ha Bay
Most people visit Halong Bay on a two or three day boat trip. We suggest visiting those same magnificent Karst Islands in the less visited Lan Ha Bay which lies south from Halong Bay. It can be visited on a day trip from Cat Ba Island, viewing Fishing Villages, Kayaking or Rock Climbing and then spending the night in a hotel on Cat Ba. This is a great option if you don’t feel comfortable sleeping on a boat.
Visit Lan Ha Bay instead of Halong Bay – read all about that here.
Karst Islands, Lan Ha Bay (south of Halong Bay).
Three days in Ninh Binh
Ninh Binh is an everyday working city whose vibe was clouded by dust from the local cement factory back in 2011. Although the city lacked tourist infrastructure for westerners, the surrounding countryside held many delights. Trang An, Tam Coc and Thung Nang are all watery landscapes with karst hills reminiscent of Halong and Lan Ha Bay, only on land. Boatmen/women row small punts with either their feet or hands taking up to six paying customers along for the ride. Nearby is Bich Dong Pagoda, a series of three pagodas the highest of which offers great views. Kenh ga fishing village on the Hoang Long River is set in a similar karst landscape with motorised boat trips. * Please Note these trips are no longer available in 2018.
Some of these attractions could be covered on a tour from Hanoi.
Being three hours from Hanoi, Cuc Phuong National Park is probably best accessed from Ninh Binh. Although public buses will drop off at the park entrance, the main attractions are 20 km within the gates. Those with motorbikes or vehicles can go it alone, hiring guides from the park if required.
School’s Out Ninh Binh.
Trang An Cave boat.
Cuc Phuong National Park offers rainforest walks, small prehistoric caves (bring a torch) and this primate rescue centre.
You can read about Kengha Fishing Village here.
Three days in Hoi An
Foodie Destination, Cooking lessons, old buildings undamaged in Vietnam (American) war, a fun and informative Heaven and Earth Bike Tour, Full Moon Candle Floating Ceremony, Hoi An beach, Danang, and a half day trip to ruined Hindu temples at My Son.
My Son Hindu temple ruin complex from Hoi An.
Two Days in Hue, Vietnam.
Add a one or two day visit to Hue from Hoi An. Hue (Hway) was Vietnam’s capital 1802-1945. It was invaded by the Japanese 1940 to 1945 and afterward the capital was moved south. Unfortunately it sustained a lot of damage in the Vietnam (American) war but does have a large Citadel with moat. River trips are popular and trips can be made to the nearby Demilitarised Zone. Read about food Hue is known for here.
Three days in Nha Trang, Vietnam.
Nha Trang is an enjoyable beach destination which we explored by bicycle. It is the departure point for boat trips and the chair lift to nearby Vin Pearl Island. It has good sandy beaches, Gallery of renowned photographer Long Thanh, a huge White Buddha, Po Nagar Hindu Temples and good bars and restaurants.
Two Days in Dalat from Nha Trang.
We intended visiting this once French highland town, known for it’s eternal spring weather and pine fringed lakes and hills, but the weather closed in and we chose Nha Trang. I suggest visiting both, time and weather permitting.
Four days in Saigon
Visit temples, eat at a different restaurant every night, eat street food, visit markets, side trip to cu chi tunnels, Mekong Delta day trip or longer or Phu Quoc island.
Mekong Delta.
Return to Saigon for a day before departure.
What westerners refer to as the Vietnam War, is referred to as the American war by locals. As a tourist, the war is never far from the agenda and there are many war sites that can be visited. Even though there are too many sad reminders of the past, Vietnam’s focus is firmly on the future. You can visit the War Remnants Museum in Saigon (HCMC) for a totally different view of the Vietnam or American War.
Customise your Vietnam Itinerary
We spent 30 days in Vietnam and this itinerary is based on that time. It goes without saying however that the suggested Itinerary is flexible. Make it your own. Drop days and towns to make it right for you if your time is shorter, or spend more time in the places you really enjoy if you’ve time to spare.
We booked ahead for some accommodation and left others till our plans were solid. When booking on-line we used Agoda, at other times we rang direct. If your choice is showing no vacancies on line, do ring in person or get the reception at your current lodging to ring on your behalf – the answer is quite often different.
Budget Travel Tips for Vietnam.
- Day trips and transport can be booked after arrival. Even the smallest hotels willingly make bookings (including train tickets), at little or no additional cost.
- When we were preparing to leave Hoi An we discovered the only district that wasn’t pouring with rain was Nha Trang so we quickly booked a flight there – it was a excellent addition. Flexibility is a luxury that I enjoy.
- Vietnam Airlines is a great airline to fly with.
- The Mekong Delta can be visited by bus or a one day boat trip from Saigon. Of these two the boat is the best and most expensive option. Spending a few days in the delta area independently would be my choice next time and that is only achievable by bus. The floating markets in the delta are held early morning and are finished by the time a day trip from Saigon arrives so stay for at least overnight if they are a priority of yours.
- We spent quite a few days more in Ninh Binh than anticipated due to illness. There is a lot to see in the area but keep in mind that it can be accessed via day trips from Hanoi.
- I reviewed a book a while back about Vietnam which would be a handy read before arrival (recommended).
Thanks for reading and commenting – we really appreciate it. If you have a blog we would love you to add your travel post to the link below for Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday which we co-host with Ruth from Tanama Tales and Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.
Kathy Marris
This is a fantastic guide for a first timer’s visit to Vietnam. I have been to Vietnam a couple of times and have covered most of your itinerary, but have also learnt about a few more places. We are going back at the end of this year so this will be handy. I truly fell in love with Vietnam from my first trip here.
Jan
I really recommend the book I mention too Kathy. Will you be choosing just a couple of places to visit on your return or adding more unvisited ones to your repertoire?
Lydia C. Lee
I loved Hue. Of all the places it was my favourite.
Jan
I’m so happy to hear that Lydia, seeing how I added it to the Itinerary.
Sharon Wagner
Vietnam is definitely on my bucket list. Thanks for the intriguing glimpse into life there.
Jill
My daughter was able to take a 12 day tour of Vietnam and claims it to be the favorite country she’s ever been to. We hope to go next year on our way to visit her in Korea. Looks lovely!
Jan
Wow Vietnam and Korea in the one trip. That will be something.
Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe
Great itinerary Jan. I love your photos, especially the photo of the Mekong Delta. I enjoyed my short visit to Vietnam but hope to include time in Mekong next trip.
Jan
Yes I would like to spend more time in the Mekong Delta. I tried to fit it in but it didn’t work out. Never mind!
Jackie Smith
This is so high on ‘our list’ that it is about to shoot off the top of the page! You’ve added the travel itch with this post. One day I do hope to get to Viet Nam!
Jan
I am sure you will get there one day Jackie! Meanwhile I’m happy with reading your Greece and Egypt posts too. 🙂
Nancie
Hi, Jan. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. My time in Vietnam was short, and although I enjoyed it, I do agree with your comment that it can be challenging for independent travelers. I loved Hanoi, and I do remember the cold! Thanks for co-hosting this week. #TPThursday
Michele {Malaysian Meanders}
I wanted to visit Vietname while we were living in Asia but could never convince the rest of the family to go. My kids school in Malaysia is named Dalat because it was originally located in Dalat, Vietnam. Did you like Lan Ha Bay? I imagine that it must have been less crowded than Halong Bay.
Jan
We loved Lan Ha. Getting there is a little challenging but it does work exactly as per Asia Outdoors instructions on their website. I liked it because it is a less travelled destination and it was beautiful. We liked exploring the bay on a smaller boat (25 people on our cruise), the food was great and it was great kayaking and sitting on the top deck in bean bags having a drink on the way back to port in the afternoon.
Mary {The World Is A Book}
What a great itinerary and tips post, Jan! I have wanted to visit Vietnam for a long time and this will come in very handy when we do. Just bookmarked it! We’ll have a limited time and it will be really challenging to narrow it down but Halong Bay and Saigon are definitely at the top of the list. Thanks for this!
Jan
My pleasure Mary. I’m sure you will be able to work out an itinerary for a limited time.
Peggy
Great list of things to do! I only visited Vietnam for 7 days so could only fit in Hanoi, Ha Long bay and Sa Pa, but would love to go to Hue, Hoi An and Ho Chi Minh as well as Danang! My 3 day itinerary for Hanoi is here: http://takingtotheopenroad.com/3-days-in-hanoi/
Let’s compare notes!
Jan
Peggy, Those three destinations were good choices.