Fado is to Portugal like Flamenco is to Spain, and while Seville is the place to watch flamenco so Alfama is the place to Experience Fado.
In Seville, Spain, we watched Flamenco at a free venue, that made it’s money out of booze and was reminiscent of a low wide Aussie sheep shearing shed. Not unlike it’s Aussie counterpart it was as hot as hell in that venue, and with an outside temperature of 46 degrees at 7.30 p.m. that night, I am pretty sure they made a profit.
My heart went out to the thin as a pretzel bailaora in her clinging red long sleeved dress. Even the crowd of jug swilling patrons sat silently in awe when the wailing and hand clapping of her two male counterparts began. Her dancing and stamping were riveting and we immediately forgave when the performance finished after only half and hour. But enough of Flamenco… this story is about Fado.
The first thing to realize is that Fado is not the visual spectacle that flamenco is.
It is a mournful outpouring of sadness in (Portuguese) song.
Our desire to find an authentic place to sample Fado (Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage List), led us to a small restaurant situated below street level in Alfama.
Alfama, the oldest district of Lisbon is situated directly below Castelo San Jorge and the Miradouro de Santa Luzia in a tangle of vertical alleys that at night brought uncomfortable thoughts. Unfounded thoughts as it turned out and I wouldn’t have missed our Alfama experiences for all the Pasteis de Nata in the land. This original village of fishermen has a genuine feel to it today that channels it’s humble roots. It is the place to scoff sardines fresh from a smoky open brazier; to absorb the colour of everyday life; and of course to listen to fado.
There was no cover charge at the restaurant, so we ordered dessert which with a glass of wine and a coffee, set us back the equivalent of AUD30 – a hefty charge in a Country that is even less expensive than Spain.
We listened to three Fadistas, the first of which is pictured on the left below. He was followed by a beautiful young woman with a voice to match, and an old diva with such dramatic expression that I felt a certain understanding. I imagined a young woman left heartbroken on the shores of the Rio Tejo when her young man went to sea, never to return. It could well have been the case too, as typical Fado stories run the full gamut through betrayal, jealousy, irreparable loss and bull fights!
There is the local saying “Silêncio que se vai cantar o fado!” – Silence because the Fado is about to be sung.
In retrospect I think we should have gone with the noisy bar option. As the restaurant was below ground level we did not know until we agreed to enter, that we were the only patrons. As it was we had a somewhat awkward (for us) private performance.
Have you had a Fado experience?
Budget Tips
Look for an Alfama bar that has Fado but no cover charge. The drinks would no doubt be expensive but you only need order one.
Catch the free tourist tram 28 to Miradouro de Santa Luzia or Tram 12E. The steps beside the adjacent open platform of Miradoura Das Portas do Sol terrace lead down to Alfama.
If time permits I suggest visiting Alfama twice. A familiarising daytime walk down through the alleys is very atmospheric and will orientate you for a nighttime foray. As usual in dark alleys be vigilant.
The Lisbon Locals were always urging us to watch our valuables on the trams and buses and tram 28 does have a bad reputation for pickpockets.
Join the fun over at Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox.
Tuesday in Townsville Taylors Beach Road Trip and Mini Break
Love this place…
Me too Lily. So atmospheric.
It is such a treat to go to little out of the way places when you are in a different country and see cultural performances. I remember when we were in Turkey we had a belly dancer at a restaurant we dined at who took a particular interest in my husband, much to his embarrassment!
So funny Kathy. We did not see any belly dancers in Turkey 🙂
we tried hard to see Fado when we were in Lisbon, but the few places we found seemed like too blatant a rip off for our 20-something budgets (steep cover and 2-drink minimum, etc.). Glad you found a place to enjoy it for a reasonable tab
Our 20 something budgets would never have made the cut. But then in my 20’s I wasn’t that interested in cultural events, lol. I am pretty sure that there were bars with no cover charge in Alfama.
Portugal is high on my list, and I so want to experience a fado performance. Thanks for the lovely story and photos, and for linking up this week! 🙂 #TPThursday
I really enjoyed our week in Lisbon and would love to go back and visit Porto.
I have never heard of Fado. It must be especially wonderful if you actually understand Portuguese. Even if you don’t this does seem like the type of experience that would stay with you and come to epitomize the town in your memory. I wonder why no one else was there? By the way, my young cousin has decided to visit Turkey for a week over her Spring Break from teaching primary school. After learning so much from you, I almost felt like I could tell her all about it even though I have never visited there myself.
That’s wonderful that your Cousin is visiting Turkey, I am sure she will love it. We were probably too early for the rest of the people at the Fado. It was dark, but Europeans always do things late by Aussie standards 🙂
Hi Jan, I miss Lisbon. It has been a while since I was there — it was during my backpacking days in the last ’90’s. I remember being charmed by Alfama and that every old lady I bumped into stopped to remind me to watch out for my belongings. I met up with some travelers and we went out to see Fado several times. I did enjoy it. Every venue we went to was pretty packed with both locals and travelers. And it was no where as expensive as what you had paid for. Everything back then was so dirt cheap. I remember paying US$0.80 a great glass of port, which at that time would have cost $16 in NY. How time has changed. I wonder how I would feel about Lisbon on my next visit,
You would still love it Marisol. It was very cheap (apart from the Fado we saw). Funny how the old ladies were warning about watching your belongings back there too. It is the only place I’ve struck such a concern for travelers and there belongings. 🙂
oh that would be embarrassing, being the only person listening to the music but yet at the same time would be romantic, almost like you had booked the restaurant as a private function 🙂
Was t
oh that would be embarrassing, being the only person listening to the music but yet at the same time would be romantic, almost like you had booked the restaurant as a private function 🙂
Was the food any good?
And great tips about keeping an eye on valuables.
I guess I would have felt a little awkward if I was the only one there, too. Nonetheless, it sounds like a Fado experience is one that must be had in Alfama. I feel like I could just walk right into the large street photo. Cool effect.
Ha, that’s funny in hindsight that you were the only one’s there, Jan. That is exactly something that would happen to me. Now, the female dancer was cute and it was just for me (I mean that appropriately) then I wouldn’t mind a bit lol! 🙂
the restaurant atmosphere looks relaxed … heading over to youtube to listen to some fado and get idea what it sounds like ….
I’m chuckling to myself picturing you two trying not to feel awkward as the musicians poured out their souls to you, and only you. 🙂
Sometimes I wonder how we get into such situations, lol.
Love love love Fado. What a wonderfully authentic experience. Went to Lisbon years ago, but would love to go back.