On the southern side of Ancient Troad or the modern Biga Peninsula in North Eastern Turkey, is the once Greek Settlement of Assos. The Temple to Athena built in 530BC presides over the hilltop, while downhill beneath the 2nd Century BC Theatre, lies the old port.
Old stone warehouses, reborn as hotels and restaurants, cluster charmingly around an intimate port. They say that any week-end April to August is crowded here, yet in early September it was anything but.
There are several names thrown around when referring to the town and port at Assos.
Assos/Behramkale/Behram/Iskele?
Confused? I know I was. Time for a little research.
Lonely Planet guidebook:
“The Twin villages of Behramkale and Assos are a breathtaking double Act.”
It goes on to describe the ancient Greek Temple of Athena at the top of the hill (Behramkale) and the stone buildings of the port at the bottom of the hill (Assos).
But this was at odds with Widipedia.
Wikipedia – Assos – paraphrased:
The town on top of the hill is called Assos/Behramkale/Behram and the port below is called Iskele meaning port.
They went on to say that the ancient town was called Assos then renamed Behramkale.
Hmmm. We need a third opinion.
Turkish Travel Planner – Assos – paraphrased:
The Town is officially called Behramkale but most people call it by it’s original name of Assos, and the port below is officially called Behram but most call it Iskele.
Let me introduce.
Iskele – the Port below the town of Assos (otherwise known as Behramkale or Behram for short).
Arriving late in the day meant bypassing the hilltop town of Assos and taking the dramatically steep road to down to Iskele. If I was braver you would now be looking at a video of that descent. Thank heavens it wasn’t as long as it was steep and that even at my age closing my eyes works well.
Dr. No’s Pansiyon was a budget affair tucked away behind the smarter waterfront hotels… we did however have one tiny window with it’s own tiny sea view. The stone courtyard that filled the gap between room and hill was lined with white boxes growing herbs, while overhead hung sturdy bunches of grapes. A stone staircase led down through a profusion of flower boxes and more vines to port level.
Walking port side through the restaurant and bar strip, we came to several timber swimming platforms.
Having no idea what platforms belonged to what hotels, we slid uneasily onto the first sun lounges we saw and nonchalantly applied sunscreen. No Problemo.
Time for a swim.
Out of frame on the left where the water was very deep was the place to enter. Marty dive bombed and I climbed the ladder down a bit before jumping. That water was deliciously refreshing – not cold – and very buoyant.
Leaving Iskele early the next morning we stopped at the entrance to the Theatre which lay further down the hill to the south, away from the Temple of Athena.
The Roman Theatre viewed from below. Late 2nd Century BC. Can you find me?
The View from my vantage point was all stone and blue and Marty.
The entrance to the Temple of Athena is reached via the township of Assos further up the hill, where stalls selling local handicrafts lined the way.
Say hello to the Turkeys.
I will never forget the ethereal quality of that summit view. The early morning blues of Sea and Sky provided an amazing backdrop and I bet sunset would be equally as stunning.
I remember thinking what an amazing sight the intact temple would have made on it’s hilltop.
238m above sea level the Doric Temple to Athena presides over Assos (Behramkale or Behram) and the Agean. Six of the original 38 columns remain.
Turkey could be thought of as a giant open air Museum and the variety of sites in different stages of ruin and restoration is amazing. This site was the first we came across on a week’s self drive journey from Izmir to Gallipoli, and it did not disappoint. Like Pamukkale and Hierapolis inland from Izmir, Assos and Iskele make a tantalising combination. The old town and antiquities spread over the hill and below the relaxing ambience and playground of Iskele.
Budget Talk
Temple of Athena – 8tl Entrance Fee
Dr. No Antik Pansiyon – 80tl/double for very simple room – phone 0286 721 7397
This week I have linked to:
CORINNE AND JIM FROM REFLECTIONS ENROUTE Which is all about Turkey this week.
Short Breaks like a Wongaling Beach Mini-Break can be a life saver
Jan, Oh, your photos are making me miss Turkey, especially the waterside restaurants! Beautiful. And thanks for linking up with Weekend Travel Inspiration!
Your posts always make me wish I was back in Turkey. You were so lucky to live there for four years. You saw a much different Turkey to what we saw in 6 weeks.
I am feeling an overwhelming desire to return to this amazing country after seeing this. I was there in 2012 and visited nearby Bergama and the ruins of Pergamum which were perched on top of a hill overlooking the town. Your beautiful photos and narrative bought it all back to me. with those magnificent turquoise blue waters and waterfront cafes. Just beautiful!
Hi Kathy. Every time I do a post on Turkey I want to go back!
Looks like such a wonderful seaside town to visit. Love all the old crumbling ruins!
Yes I loved the combination of seaside holiday town and ancient ruins. Turkey does that so well.
Seaside retreats and well preserved Greek ruins … what isn’t there to love about coastal Turkey?
Yep, Turkey is lovely allover 🙂
I would love to explore that area, only did Celcuk, Ephesis and Kusadasi in October and most of those areas outside of the ruins were fairly quiet but wonderful to visit…looks like you had the entire place to yourselves
It was very quiet Noel. We met a couple from New Zealand both on the swimming platform and then at the Temple of Athena. October is lovely in Turkey isn’t it?
Beautiful photos…
Thanks Lily.
This place is absolutely magical!!
I agree totally Agness. You could do it the other way to us and get hot and dusty at the ruins then head down for a swim in that gorgeous blue water. 🙂
I love this! I saw the ancient Ephesus ruins 2 days ago and it reminds of me of that. The restaurant right on the water looks divine… I would love to dive into that blue water!
Ephesus is amazing isn’t it Anna. I wonder what else they would find at Assos if they delved a little further 🙂
Love the photo of the table laid for lunch and then the thought of a swim. Hmmm, Turkey – when!
Next?
What stunning views!! I’ve never lounged on a seaside platform before. 🙂 I love all the little pots of herbs making a garden where there couldn’t possibly be one.
It was a first seaside platform for me too Krista. I see why they have them there though – or we would all be clinging to the rocks 🙂
Such a beautiful part of the world! It’s many years since i was there.
I can’t believe it is already a year since we were there Johanna. Quick I must pack my bags!
So there actually are turkeys in Turkey. This town, whatever it’s called, is so pretty. That photo with the lone tree in the center is so peaceful. I cannot believe that the water isn’t cold, but perhaps you have a different definition of cold than I do. I like it bathwater temp. Most of all, I think it’s interesting that I have a tendency to lump everything together under the “old” category. Both the theatre and the temple seem old to me, so it’s incredible that they are centuries apart in age.
It is hard to imagine the age of these antiquities. I’m with you – old is old.:)
Confusing names 🙂 Those pictures and so nice! Really make me want to go back to Turkey.
I am always wanting to return also Sarah.
Great find and fantastic photos. Funny how a ton of Greek history turns out to actually be located next door in Turkey. We only made it to Espheus on our trip to Turkey which of course is amazing but next time we are penciling in these two beauties and probably Pammukkale.
Go for it Brooke, Turkey is full of ruins and places to see. Cappadocia is great too and don’t get me started on Eastern Turkey, lol.