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Bozcaada Fortress over rooftops

Bozcaada the Barren

September 24, 2014 By Jan Robinson 26 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


35 minutes from Geyikli, below the Dardanelles on the west Coast of Turkey,  lies Bozcaada Island – literally the Barren Island.

Bozcaada Island, Turkey

We had visited Cunda Island 130km to the south the previous day, but being connected via causeway to the mainland it lacked true Island status.

Bozcaada on the other hand stood alone, approachable only by ferry from Geyikli or seaplane from Istanbul.   In a rare burst of timeliness we arrived at Geyikli at 12 noon just before the ferry sailed – on we drove and the ferry departed.

The top deck looked like the perfect place to both get some fresh air and watch the island approach, and it was.  Apart from the toilet on the windward side from which the most disgusting smell came in gusts.  People were giggling, gasping or turning a blind eye  nose.  Who knew we would pay a price for that lucky timing…

Smells aside, it was a pleasant trip to the island of Wine Makers, Fishermen and Poppy Syrup Chefs – oh and add Tomato Jam makers to that too!

We had timed this visit to coincide with the yearly wine festival on the 14th September 2013, but saw no sign of it.  We supposed it had been put on hold because of new laws prohibiting drinking alcohol in public places, although we did see an advertisement in a window.

The enforced population swap of the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, was not forced on the Greeks of Bozcaada, as it had been on those in AYVALIK and CUNDA ISLAND.  The Greeks on Bozcaada finally left of their own accord in the late 60’s early 70’s to find better opportunities and less discrimination elsewhere.  The resulting population void was filled by Turkish people from a mainland district to the east – Bayramic.

Bozcaada has been invaded and conquered, burned and rebuilt, all due to it’s pivotal position at the mouth of the Dardanelles, the narrow channel that controls the shipping for all countries east as far as the Black Sea and Russia.

The Fortress that loomed bigger and bigger as the island got closer had been destroyed and rebuilt many times and as a result is thought to be the best preserved fortress in Turkey. It’s current form dates from Mehmet the Conquerer’s time, the last rebuild being in 1815.

Approaching the Port and Bozcaada Fortress.  The white buildings behind the fortress are on the Greek side of town.

Bozcaada Fortress

Leaving the ferry, we parked and wandered into a large open air eating area beneath trees on the left, where we had the best chicken doners (sliced grilled chicken and salad on a breadroll).  While eating we browsed our Guidebook – discussing Ergin Pansiyon.  Next minute a man from the next table turned and smiled at us.

I own Ergin and can take you there after lunch if you like.  

Oh the randomness of travel in Turkey.

I can’t swear to which Ergin we went (there were four), but we walked to the right and only a few streets up the hill behind the fortress.  The pansiyon was quite possibly empty apart from ourselves and we enjoyed superb happy hour views from the rooftop where a mother and daughter homework session was underway. Isn’t it reassuring how some things are the same allover the world?

Bozcaada Fortress over rooftops

Our neighbours down on street level were a friendly lot and the next morning some village ladies fed us in a separate courtyard up the street.  One of them took the money for our night’s accommodation – it was all seemed very communal and laid back.

 

Bozcaada Neighbours

Island life is all about being removed physically from the mundane life of the mainland, and that is the attraction at Bozcaada.  There is nothing startling to see, just the fortress which can after all be seen remarkably well from the ferry although it evidently opens to reveal some interesting artifacts.  Apart from that there is the old church with bell tower and two Mosques (1655 and 1700).

After seeing them it’s time to relax – buy an ice-cream, open a bottle of wine, order some octopus or lay on a beach.  Swimming is best away from the main port area at any of the sandy inlets around the island. Buses leave hourly.

Cobblestones reign supreme in the town around the port and this particular lane leads to the Greek Orthodox Church with four storey bell and watch tower dating from 1869 in it’s current form – the tower being restored in 2009. The church is usually closed apart from Sunday Morning Mass 8 a.m.

Bozcaada Cobblestones & Church on Bozcaada Island

After a welcome shower it was time for a clockwise spin around the island.

Can you see the cars lining the inlet below? A popular swimming spot – but there were just as many lonely coves for a private swim.

Bozcaada Ocean Swimming Turkey

 

Bozcaada Looking back at the Open Road

Bozcaada Around

At the end of an atmospheric pine forest drive we arrived like Alice through the looking glass at a wind-farm at the far end of the island.

Bozcaada Windfarm Collage   Time to step back through and venture into some wine country.

Bozcaada Vineyard

On the way home.

Bozcaada Return

Brown was the predominant colour of the island, but with splashes of dark green from the pines and vines and the all-around blue from the Agean, the island was anything but what it’s name suggests.

Our jaunt around the island took less than an hour including stops, but now it was time to look for a favourite cafe for refreshments.  In the streets on the left just behind the harbour and beneath another huge tree we found it.

Despite some beautiful colours, the ambience shone through best using Black and White photography.

Bozcaada Favourite Cafe

There is more of Bozcaada to share yet – views of the port and dinner in the traditional Greek area – so join me next time.

Bozcaada Sunset

While looking at Google Maps I realized that Bozcaada Island and Geyikli were on the same longitude as KARS, a world away on the eastern side of Turkey and it reminded me what a crazy diverse country Turkey is.

While you are here click on Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox – you never know where you will end up.

Budget Talk.

The prices of the different Ergin Pansiyons vary.  We paid 120tl per night double with breakfast.

Bozcaada Fortress/Castle.  Entrance approx. 2tl.  Enquire at the tourist info booth on the right when leaving the ferry.

Geyikli is the only ferry service that takes vehicles to Bozcaada.  A passenger ferry operates several times each week from Cannakale.

 

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Filed Under: Destination, Ruins, Turkey

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

Previous Post: «Tempe of Athena Assos and Iskele a Turkish Greek City and Port
Next Post: Visit Townsville in Springtime Townsville Red Bottle Brush flower»

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kathy Marris

    September 25, 2014 at 8:18 am

    Oh your wonderful photos really take me back to Turkey. It also goes to show that I only touched the surface of this country whilst I was there a few years ago. I would love to go back and explore these place you have introduced me too.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 25, 2014 at 9:03 am

      Kathy welcome to the club. I always read about things after I leave a place and wonder how I missed it while there. Of course Turkey is so large you could spend a lifetime exploring it. I think the main thing is to enjoy the parts we do see. 🙂

      Reply
  2. Nancie

    September 25, 2014 at 11:57 am

    What a lovely little island, Jan, and your photos are gorgeous. I hope you got to try some of the wine. Did you ever discover the wine festival, or its demise? Thanks for linking up this week.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 25, 2014 at 4:15 pm

      A local on the mainland told us it was cancelled, so we did not ask about it on the island. Bozcaada is very small so I am sure we would have seen it if it were on, but when editing my photos I noticed that one of the restaurants had an advertisement in their window saying the very date we were there although it didn’t say what year lol. A bit of a mystery still. Will have the advertisement in my next post on Bozcaada. 🙂

      Reply
  3. Jess @UsedYorkCity

    September 25, 2014 at 1:17 pm

    I think I would really enjoy the island life!:-) The fortress really brings you back to another place and time, right from the history books!

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 25, 2014 at 4:15 pm

      Turkey is full of historical sights Jess – a real eye opener. 🙂

      Reply
  4. Muza-chan

    September 25, 2014 at 1:25 pm

    Beautiful place…

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 25, 2014 at 4:16 pm

      Yes it was Lily.

      Reply
  5. Leigh

    September 25, 2014 at 1:33 pm

    Looks like a laid back place perfect for relaxing. I like the fact it doesn’t look busy or commercialized. Your Turkey trip that I’ve seen is very inspiring.

    Reply
  6. Johanna

    September 25, 2014 at 4:11 pm

    Gosh it does look lovely, and you are giving me such great ideas of where to go and what to see when we do get there. Your pics today gave a really good ‘feel’ for this cobble stoned, pirate coved island with it’s great big fort.

    Reply
  7. Rachel@safari254

    September 25, 2014 at 11:43 pm

    Looks like a little Island of beauty, very idyllic and charming; an ideal getaway break when visiting Istanbul.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 26, 2014 at 9:22 am

      It is beautiful Rachel. If I could afford I would fly in the seaplane from Istanbul 🙂

      Reply
  8. Dick Jordan

    September 26, 2014 at 4:42 am

    Cool! Had never heard of this place before.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 26, 2014 at 9:20 am

      I think it is only when you travel in the immediate area that it appears on your radar Dick. 🙂

      Reply
  9. Phoebe @ lou Messugo

    September 26, 2014 at 5:46 am

    That fortress looks amazing; it looks like a kid’s toy it’s so perfect! I enjoyed visiting this island with you today,thanks!

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 26, 2014 at 9:20 am

      I know what you mean about it looking so perfect. Maybe too perfect, lol?

      Reply
  10. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    September 26, 2014 at 7:11 am

    How serendipitous that you met the pansiyon owner while eating. The town, like much of how you’ve depicted Turkey, seems super friendly. It’s anything but barren if you ask me. That B&W photo doesn’t look like what I expected from Turkey. I would have guessed it to be an outdoor cafe in California.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 26, 2014 at 9:18 am

      Hi Michele. The cafe is what you might expect in a tourist area, although Bozcaada is mainly a local tourist destination, not an international one. Turkish people are very friendly and helpful.

      Reply
  11. Mary {The World Is A Book}

    September 26, 2014 at 4:00 pm

    There’s a lot more to this barren island than the name implies. That fortress is very impressive! Love low key destinations like this. That black and white picture of the cafe is so inviting.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 26, 2014 at 10:19 pm

      I was surprised how that photo looked so much better in B & W. I must remember to try it more often. 🙂

      Reply
  12. Muza-chan

    September 29, 2014 at 10:26 pm

    Great photos, Jan 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 30, 2014 at 3:07 am

      Thanks Lily.

      Reply
  13. Marisol@TravelingSolemates

    September 30, 2014 at 6:16 am

    I love following you on the road less travel. Bozcaada looks so laid back. For a land considered barren, there’s a lot going for it. I would never expect that it would have vineyards. That fortress looks immense. I love that shot of the red roofs with it in the background. It’s nice that you get to observe a lot of the daily life. It’s true that its wonderful to see that that some everyday things are the same all over the world. I can’t wait to see what you had for dinner! Your meals always make me drool.

    Reply
  14. Dennis Kopp

    October 2, 2014 at 5:53 am

    Jan, that really looks like the kind of place I would like to visit as well. Being a lover of all historical architecture, but especially fortresses or castles, Bozcaada would make a perfect destination for me. And find some local wine on a so called barren island, makes it an even better place to visit… 🙂

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. A Bozcaada Island Affair says:
    October 9, 2014 at 6:33 pm

    […] affair with BOZCAADA ISLAND was never going to be long term – just one night – but that didn’t mean it was […]

    Reply

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