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Canoes at Kampong Pluk

Kampong Pluk A Fishing Village on Stilts

April 10, 2014 By Jan Robinson 23 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


We decided on the spur of the moment to visit Kampong Pluk a fishing village on Tonle Sap some 30 km south-east of Siem Reap in Cambodia.
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Kampong Pluk a Cambodian Fishing Village on Stilts outside of Siem Reap

During three weeks in Cambodia in 2013 we spent four days in Siem Reap. Our spontaneous decision was made on a day trip to Beng Melea, an impressive ruined Wat the jungle is busy reclaiming, some 68 km from Siem Reap.

Beng Melea was a fantastic Indiana Jones  experience which I highly recommend.  Along the way we stopped to look at Pre Rup, a Wat close to Siem Reap that caught our eye and Banteay Srei, referred to with good cause as The Jewel in the Crown of Angkorian Artisanship.

We were on our way back to Siem Reap when our driver planted the seed.

Had we been to a Cambodian fishing village? he asked.

And so it was that three-quarters of an hour later we diverted down a bumpy 6km long dirt road.  It was 4.30 p.m. by the time we reached the departure point – rather late to venture out on to Tonle Sap, I thought.

 

The boat that would take us to Kampong Pluk
Readying the boat that would take us on to Tonle Sap and Kampong Pluk

We paid 18USD at the Ticket Office on Site.

By Cambodian standards that seemed overpriced, but not by choice, we did have the whole boat to ourselves. Having jolted our way down that long and difficult road it seemed crazy to change our minds because of a fee, which in all reality was the cost of morning tea in Australia. A post trip check on Trip Advisor revealed this amount was correct. The current rate is 20/22USD each.

About Tonle Sap.

Tonle Sap is both a river and lake. The freshwater lake is the largest in South East Asia and is a UNESCO biosphere.

A river that changes direction.

The Tonle Sap river normally flows into the Mekong at Phnom Penh, but when the Mekong swells with melt water from the Himalayas and is deluged by the monsoon rains in it’s upper catchment, the water backs up and like magic reverses it’s flow, expanding the lake – nature at it’s most impressive.

In the dry season November to April the lake covers 2700 sq km with an average depth of 1 metre while in the wet season May to October it covers 16,000 sq km with an average depth of nine metres.

This expansion creates plentiful fish breeding areas among the fields and forests and we saw first hand crowds of locals pulling cast nets full of fish and prawns from the encroaching waters as we journeyed around the Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh, enroute to Siem Reap, Battambang and back to Phnom Penh. It was exciting to watch.

Kampong Pluk Bird
The quiet of Tonle Sap Lake

The boat putted slowly along and the sun was low in the sky by the time we got to Kampong Pluk.

By the way, the name Kampong Pluk translates to Harbor of the Tusks and I have a sinking feeling that once upon a time that meant elephant tusks.

Lemon grass and herbs grew in containers on the village verandahs and morning glory (such a popular Asian green vegetable) grew beside the houses in the water, a sight that reminded us of the canals of Bangkok. Shops and food vendors operated from canoes as well as from the stilted houses, the main source of village income being fresh water prawns and livestock like pigs, chickens and dogs.

Young children were trusted and capable boat captains and this time of day seemed a sociable one with families out in force.  We left the villagers to get on with their evening and adjourned to a quiet part of the lake where we cut the motor and waited for the sun to set.

Our boat leaving as the others are coming back from Kampong Pluk
Our boat leaving for Kampong Pluk as the others are returning.

 

Kampong Pluk Village
Morning Glory grows in the water around the houses.

Water Village House 1 Water Village Kampong Pluk Barely Above Water Water Village Kampong Pluk Boy Driving Water Village Kampong Pluk Floating Shop Water Village Kampong Pluk herbs Water Village People in Canoes

The sun sets quickly in the tropics.

As soon as the sun disappeared behind the clouds we started the engine and headed for home. Borith was soon in the bow of the boat holding a tiny torch, and looking a little concerned. A couple of gung ho boat operators overtook us in the dark and I had a feeling the adventure could quite possibly end badly. Thankfully our young boatman kept his cool and delivered us safely to shore.

A lonely but beautiful scene on the way to Kampong Pluk
A lonely but beautiful scene on Tonle Sap

It was 7 pm by the time we were guided by shouts to our mooring spot alongside the other boats in the river. 

After all the jostling and (my) panic at finding a mooring place in the dark, we noticed the swarms of mosquitoes. I had guilty visions of our poor driver barricaded in the car with the windows shut tight. Maybe he visited friends in the village, or maybe he was just happy to be earning money, but whatever the reason he was smiling when we finally found him. He was certainly not in a hurry as we didn’t exceed 30kph on the way back to town. Although the fuel gauge hovered on empty most of the way, we arrived home again without incident.  It was definitely a lucky day.

The good and bad of arriving late in the day.

Arriving earlier in Kampong Pluk would have allowed time to transfer to a smaller boat (5USD each) to explore the flooded forest. With the water level high the small boats drift surreally through the tree tops where birds, frogs, rats, spiders and snakes can be seen. Umm, I’d settle for the birds.

Arriving late in the day meant boat traffic outside of the village was non-existent and we sat on the ocean-like lake in complete serenity with the chance of seeing a spectacular Tonle Sap sunset.
Tonle Sap Sunset
Although our Tonle Sap Sunset was quite subdued, it was ours alone and quite special.
Clouds at Sunset Tonle Sap
Clouds at Sunset Tonle Sap

 

The end of October coincides with the end of the Wet Season, so the water lapped the bottom of the houses. In the dry season the 7m high stilts of the houses are totally exposed offering a very different look. When this happens the inhabitants of the village live in temporary homes further out on the lake.

Know before you go.

The view of the stilted village varies enormously depending on the water level. Ask locals what to expect before committing.

The flooded forest can be explored by small boat at an extra 5USD each.

Kampong Pluk is located 30 km south east of Siem Reap.

We did no research before arriving, but in retrospect could have asked the question. How Much of the Entrance Fee filters through to the villagers?

Borith suggested Kampong Pluk offered a better village experience than Chong Kneas.

The other three fishing villages to consider are.

Chong Kneas is a floating village so it moves with the season.  Situated south of Siem Reap it is the closest of all the villages and by all accounts is overrun with tourists.

Kampong Khleang is a stilted town more so than a village, with a small floating community as well.  It has several ornate Pagodas.  50km south east of Siem Reap.

Me Chrey is the most recently “discovered” floating village.  25km south west of Siem Reap.

How was it?

We found the Kampong Pluk experience pleasant, if a little hurried (our fault) and would recommend it for those who have not previously visited a stilted fishing village. I would have preferred to share the boat with others to reduce the cost.

We suggest hiring a car and driver (60 USD) from Siem Reap and visiting Beng Melea on the same day. Beng Melea has it’s own specialist guides but we had formed a rapport with our guide Borith, who had already taken us around Angkor Wat (25USD/day). He liaised with the Driver whose English was not fluent.  The car, driver and guide were arranged by our hotel which we found was the norm in Cambodia and Vietnam.

Our Route.

View Siem Reap in a larger map

There will be further posts on the Wats of Angkor and the amazing Beng Melea.  Make sure you visit Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox for Travel Photo Thursday.

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Filed Under: Boat Trips, Cambodia

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Muza-chan

    April 10, 2014 at 6:28 pm

    Great phoots 🙂

    Reply
  2. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    April 10, 2014 at 10:02 pm

    We decided not to go to Tonle Sap last week, so I am glad to enjoy it through you. After a few hours of temple touring, the kids were more interested in the hotel pool. As it’s now the end of the dry season, I expect that we would have seen the High on Stilts version. I think that going at the end of the day worked out well for you as some of my friends said they encountered boat traffic jams, although perhaps this was at the site closest to Siem Reap. I also highly recommend Beng Melea. It was my kids’ absolute favorite temple.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 11, 2014 at 1:12 pm

      Did you click on the link to the High on Stilts photo in the post? They look pretty amazing in the dry too Michele. I was fairly attached to our hotel pool as well Michele!

      Reply
  3. hikebiketravel

    April 11, 2014 at 1:51 am

    What fabulous shots and what an interesting perspective of life. I can’t imagine living like that on the water – but I don’t imagine they have many choices.
    You do always wonder how many dollars trickle down. At least the boast driver is making out alright.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 11, 2014 at 1:14 pm

      I am not sure how much the boat driver would get Leigh because we paid the money to a ticket office on land. 🙁

      Reply
  4. Bronwyn Joy

    April 11, 2014 at 2:46 am

    I love the places you describe here. We haven’t been to the more remote villages, but my son and I went to Kampong Pluk – and they let him drive the boat (he was four) so yes, they do start them young! A tourist on a boat coming the other way looked a little perturbed, though.

    Interesting question about the money filtering through. I’m sure some of it does, but is it a fair amount?

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 11, 2014 at 1:13 pm

      That was nice of the boat driver to let your son drive. I am sure he would have intervened before ploughing into a boat full of tourists though 🙂

      Reply
  5. ben

    April 11, 2014 at 12:55 pm

    How much does it cost to travel there? This place is so cool. I like to experience a life like this, so simple yet living together with a family.

    Reply
  6. Marcia

    April 11, 2014 at 1:31 pm

    What a lovely adventure, glad you got back safely. Love the sunsets.
    I was wondering what people did when it floods. Good thing they have relatives elsewhere. An interesting way of living, right? Here I am in a lovely hotel room and I’m complaining because I miss my own bed — and I left it willingly.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 11, 2014 at 5:38 pm

      Ha ha. It is funny what we get used to isn’t it? The people leave their homes when the lake drops. They go out further into the Lake where there is water. 🙂

      Reply
  7. Sophie

    April 11, 2014 at 3:56 pm

    I’m going to Cambodia for the first time in December, so I enjoy reading stories from the country. What an interesting experience this must have been. Love the colours – and the atmosphere – in your photos.

    Reply
  8. Marisol@TavelingSolemates

    April 12, 2014 at 9:10 am

    Hi Jan, interesting to see the village in deeper water. I did recognize some of the houses. Your images are wonderful. I’m glad you made it there. Sounds like you found a great guide.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 12, 2014 at 9:18 am

      Hi Marisol, Our guide was easy to get along with, thoughtful, smiling, knowledgable and shared stories from his childhood which I particularly appreciated. We liked him and wanted to employ him to help his situation. I do think that the On Site Beng Melea guides would have been great and probably more specialized. However we enjoyed having Borith with us for the whole day to explain temples and other things as we went along.

      Reply
  9. Cathy Sweeney

    April 12, 2014 at 1:38 pm

    How wonderful that your guide suggested this to you. Looks like a fantastic experience. I can imagine getting a little bit nervous on the boat ride back. Luckily, all was well. Your photos are wonderful — love how you captured the village and the people.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 13, 2014 at 8:21 am

      I think it was a good time of day to capture village life Cathy. I can’t imagine there being as much action in the middle of the day – especially if there were lots of tourists around snapping photos of you. So on reflection late in the day was a good time to visit. 🙂

      Reply
  10. Nancie

    April 13, 2014 at 5:16 pm

    I did this trip the first time I was in Cambodia. My trip to the boat was on a scooter. I hate the things, so I am still surprised that I actually agree. The boat ride was great and I did enjoy the village. It was a great way to get a glimpse of a more rural Cambodia. Your shots are great! I love the sunset.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 14, 2014 at 12:09 pm

      At least the scooter would be able to dodge the holes and bumps better than a car Nancie. Were you a pillion passenger or driving yourself?

      Reply
  11. Charlie

    April 19, 2014 at 8:20 am

    Looks really lovely. I had no idea that there were so many floating fishing villages in the same area.

    Reply
    • Jan

      April 21, 2014 at 3:19 pm

      Neither did I Charlie 🙂

      Reply
  12. Lisa Wood

    May 1, 2014 at 4:57 pm

    Very Brave of you Jan and Marty!!! Not sure that I could be that brave about being in the waters that late at night 🙂
    Sure looks like the sunset is worth it. Would there be any animals in the water at Kampong Pluk to be worried about? Mosquitoes are my best friend – they love me !!

    Reply
  13. Alesha NOMADasaurus

    January 11, 2017 at 2:33 pm

    Beautiful photos. We never got to explore Kampong Pluk and area. Next time. We loved riding up Phnom Kulem which was beautiful and had awesome views (not far from Siem Reap). We really enjyed staying in Siem Reap and exploring the Angkor Temples. Cambodia is an incredible place. Thanks for sharing

    Reply
    • Jan

      January 11, 2017 at 4:07 pm

      It sure is. A horrible past and life is a challenge for a lot of the population, but so worthwhile visiting.

      Reply

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