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An awe-inspiring frieze at Pak Ou Caves.
How Amazing is this Frieze at the Entrance to the top cave at Pak Ou.

Marooned on a Luang Prabang Mekong River Cruise

March 21, 2013 By Jan Robinson 35 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


Luckily the driver and fellow passenger on our Luang Prabang Mekong River Cruise had Thai as a common language.   With the passenger in the driver’s seat and the driver bent over the broken engine at the rear of the boat, adjustments were made and instructions called to turn the key at the appropriate time. 

But the engine refused to start again and slowly the implications of our boat BREAKING DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MEKONG started to seep in.  

What You Will Find in This Post

Mekong River Map – Luang Prabang to Pak Ou Caves

 

We were not moored directly to the river’s edge, but to a strange collection of weathered rocks a little way off.  The water around us was deep in places and very muddy.  Canoes with motors attached cut through the channel and boats the same size as ours too, their crews steadfastly avoiding eye contact.  I was very relieved and amazed when our driver produced a mobile and made a call.  It never occurred to me that there would be signal in this remote area.

Mekong River Boat

The engine cover at the back of the boat is raised and our driver/boat mechanic is vainly trying to fix the problem.

Our driver tried to fix the boat's Engine.

Mekong Moorage

Upgraded Boat to the rescue.

Our rescue boat was an upgrade.

Upgraded Rescue Boat

When our new boat arrived it was clear we had been upgraded.  Shiny lacquered wood and airplane seats replaced our multi-coloured miniature boat and tiny timber chairs.  It was good to be on the move again but I felt sorry to abandon our first boat and sad looking driver.

Mekong River Water Buffalo.

Mekong River Water Buffalo

I guess these buffalo belonged to somebody as they are valued animals, but they seemed free to wander of their own accord, enjoying a soak in the river when they felt like it.

Mekong River Cruise.

Mekong River Boats moored at a river village stop.

Mekong River Stop and Drive By

We had a private showing of weaving and whisky making at our one and only village stop on route to the Pak Ou caves.  We motored past the other village – I guess we had run out of time.

Slow Boat to Luang Prabang.

Twin River Boats

Pak Ou Caves Luang Prabang Laos

Looking up at the Pak Ou Buddha caves to this amazing frieze and big and Buddha Statues of all shapes and sizes.

A collage of images from Pak Ou Caves

Originally the caves were frequented by Animist Tribes, the emphasis changing to Buddhism in the 14th Century.  During the 17th Century the Kings of Lane Xang made yearly pilgrimages to the caves, until in the 18th and 19th centuries legend says there were 37,000 buddha statues in the caves.  In 1992 a joint Laos/Australian conservation project commenced, but in 2001/2 well after the project’s completion, it was reported that many gold and silver statues and images had been stolen.

There appeared to be considerably fewer statues than today’s reported estimates of 2,500 (lower cave) and 2,000 (upper cave) when we visited.  The ones that were in residence were dusty and certainly ancient looking, and at the lower end of a scale from to 10 cm to 1.5 metres tall.  The standing position of the Buddhas is the traditional Laos style.

Buddha statues in general are cleaned for the Laos New Year which was fast approaching, and there were statue washing facilities in the caves, so an imminent wash was a possibility.

Looking out through the Frieze, Long stairs down, Monk Novices, and a chair for the weary.

Images leaving the Pak Ou Caves

It was not the caves themselves that were meant to be the attraction at Pak Ou, but the collection of historical religious statues.  I fell in love with the teak Frieze entry to the top cave and the huge cavernous interiors.  The frieze conjured up romantic images of India and elephants, and is my favourite photo from Laos.  Or it might tie for 1st with my FAVOURITE MONK LIGHTING CANDLE PHOTO.

Views from Pak Ou Caves

Mekong River Uses.

Fishing 

The name Pak Ou means mouth of the Ou (river).  Across from Pak Ou caves are the limestone cliffs of Pha Hen, at the base of which is a popular fishing spot and we did see lone fishermen in canoes.

Collecting River Rocks.

By far the most common sight along the river between Luang Prabang and Pak Ou Caves was the collecting of river rocks.  Up to twenty people scavenged them in places, while young children played in the water or sat in the shade of fluttering material.  I could not help wondering what effect this continuous rock collecting would have on the river, although it probably only took place when the water level was low.

Catching Locusts.

On shore we watched a young girl beating a bush with a long stick embedded with sharp nails at the end. She then harvested the impaled locusts, popping them into a plastic shopping bag.  You will find these local delicacies for sale in the food markets in Luang Prabang. 

Serendipity.

Due to our delayed arrival at the buddha caves we had lost the fleet of riverboats we departed with earlier in the day. There were a handful of other tourists at the caves, but our crew of six enjoyed an unhurried and personal tour of the caves, and then a speedy trip home in our lovely new boat!

I personally viewed our boat’s breakdown as a bonus.  After all not everyone can claim to have been Marooned on the Mekong.

Have You every been Marooned?

Things to Know:

Boat Trip cost – 80,000 kip each.

It is also possible to take a Songthaew or Jumbo by road from Luang Prabang to Ban Pak Ou and then a short boat trip across river to the caves.  This could be a cheaper option.

No matter how you arrive there is a further charge to enter the caves – 20,000 kip.

There are 255 steps to the top cave.

The 25 km upstream to the caves takes 1.5 hours and the return trip 1 hour.

Nancie over at Budget Travelers Sandbox hosts TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY.  Click on the link for more travel photos from around the world.

 

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Filed Under: Boat Trips, Laos

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

Previous Post: «A rooster crowing in Luang Prabang. Fantastic Friday Laos Rooster
Next Post: When to Visit Granada Spain Beautiful buildings line the streets of Granada»

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Leigh

    March 21, 2013 at 12:42 pm

    I was wondering if you were going to be forever abandoned but upgraded instead – not bad – and you got a great blog post out of the experience. What a feast for the senses this river trip was. You’ve got so many fabulous shots too.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 21, 2013 at 1:41 pm

      The hazy sky was the only thing I would change about our Luang Prabang visit. I was disappointed with our photos, but they are realistic! Thanks for commenting.

      Reply
  2. jenny@atasteoftravel

    March 21, 2013 at 2:25 pm

    There’s nothing like a little drama to remember a trip by! It would have been peaceful cruising along and seeing everyday life played out on the banks..a perfect way to see the countryside

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 21, 2013 at 3:30 pm

      There was no way I was going to miss this river trip when I had dearly wanted to do the two day version from Huay Xai to L.P. It did not disappoint. If only the skies had been clear!

      Reply
  3. Johanna at ZigaZag WA Travel & Lifestyle

    March 21, 2013 at 4:04 pm

    I think a little ‘upset’ is often part of a trip like this, and agh shame for the poor boatman, but it makes it authentic and un-touristy when things don’t go quite as planned – and adrenalin levels go up too! What some gorgeous scenery, and the colour of the sky adds drama – a bright seaside blue wouldn’t be the same 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 21, 2013 at 4:10 pm

      Plans are made to go astray, and I could not think of a better place for it to happen. I like to think of it as a value added trip!

      Reply
  4. Lisa Wood

    March 21, 2013 at 6:10 pm

    So good to read about how you got out of the broken down Boat!! It sure sounds like a big upgrade.
    The boat ride cost 80,000 Kip – what would that be in Australia dollars?
    The Monks are dressed in gorgeous colours.
    Not sure I would be game enough to swim in the water – it looks muddy 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 10:08 am

      That converts to $11 AUD. I didn’t like the look of the water either Lisa. The Californian guy was the only one who got in. None of us had bathers with us!

      Reply
  5. Muza-chan

    March 21, 2013 at 6:27 pm

    Amazing photos, as usual 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 21, 2013 at 8:11 pm

      Thank you Muza-chan.

      Reply
  6. Sophie

    March 21, 2013 at 8:14 pm

    You did end up with value added, I think – not just an upgraded boat, but a more personal, relaxed tour of the caves, too. There’s nothing more impersonal than queuing through a cave.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 10:04 am

      Definitely. Even though we broke down the whole thing was relaxed.

      Reply
  7. Vera Marie Badertscher

    March 22, 2013 at 2:06 am

    What a dreamy landscape. The strange rocks the boat is tied to look like a giant’s spine! You got some really great shots, here.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 9:59 am

      Those rocks were weird Vera. The smoke was a nuisance when taking photos!

      Reply
  8. Lisa from Gone With The Family

    March 22, 2013 at 2:34 am

    Beautiful photos! It’s unfortunate that your boat had to break down but certainly a nice upside to get the caves to yourself!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 9:38 am

      Every cloud has a silver lining 🙂

      Reply
  9. Marisol

    March 22, 2013 at 5:58 am

    Hi Jan, somehow the malfunction of your first boat was a blessing in disguise. You got an upgraded boat and you had a personal, and uncrowded visit in some places. I had to laugh when you mentioned about the crew of other boats avoiding eye contact. The photo of the frieze caught my eye. I enjoyed all the river shots; they’re very calming.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 9:30 am

      It definitely was a blessing. I was surprised that there was mobile reception where we broke down – could have been tricky without it.

      Reply
  10. InsideJourneys

    March 22, 2013 at 6:51 am

    Despite your engine troubles, this sounds like a great trip to take. It looks leisurely and quite pleasurable. I like the variety of views of the caves.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 9:31 am

      I really enjoyed it as I had been wanting to travel on the Mekong for so long.

      Reply
  11. Tonya @ The Traveling Praters

    March 22, 2013 at 8:03 am

    You made it! I’m sure this is a trip that will be unforgettable.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 22, 2013 at 9:34 am

      Definitely unforgettable 🙂

      Reply
  12. Mary {The World Is A Book}

    March 22, 2013 at 4:33 pm

    So glad you got an upgrade. What a great ending to your trip and very scenic too. Those Buddha statues are beautiful!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 23, 2013 at 10:25 am

      A wonderful trip Mary. Thanks for commenting 🙂

      Reply
  13. Jackie Smith

    March 23, 2013 at 12:18 am

    I absolutely love your adventures. And I love your upbeat attitude when things tilt a bit out of the ordinary. This is a great post – keep ’em coming.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 23, 2013 at 10:24 am

      We save hard to travel so a few hiccups don’t bother us, in fact they add some spice. Even if they are scary at the time (this one was not at all) in retrospect they turn into great adventures. I loved wondering how long we would be there, getting to know the other passengers, and discussing what the outcome might be. Of course it helped that the cost involved was minimal 🙂

      Reply
  14. Malaysian Meanders

    March 23, 2013 at 12:25 am

    I’m so glad you were finally rescued without too much drama. That frieze cave entrance is very interesting. That’s too bad that statues have been stolen. You are making Laos very appealing to me!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 23, 2013 at 10:17 am

      I really would like to see more of Laos. I particularly wanted to see L.P. and only had 5 days so we spent them all in L.P. I do not regret that at all, but I would love to see Vientiane and the 4000 riverine islands.

      Reply
  15. Sensibletraveler

    March 23, 2013 at 11:25 pm

    That is too bad that you had to miss a village because of the breakdown. The caves seem amazing.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 24, 2013 at 10:35 am

      That’s O.K. we were not worried about missing the village. We did get to see one, and we had a bonus Riverside Stop!

      Reply
  16. Seana - Sydney, Kids, Food + Travel

    March 24, 2013 at 7:32 pm

    Hello, glad to catch up with the rest of the journey and to see your photos. Armchair travelling on a Sunday night here in Sydney.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 25, 2013 at 11:23 am

      I spend a lot of time armchair travelling, well computer chair travelling actually. Maybe if I did less of that and more exercise I would shed a few more kilos 🙂

      Reply
  17. Becca@R We There Yet Mom?

    March 26, 2013 at 9:53 pm

    Sometimes the best memories come in unplanned and unexpected ways! Thanks for always linking up to our Friday Daydreamin’ – I appreciate it!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 27, 2013 at 3:37 am

      I totally agree. Travelling slow takes the pressure off and allows plenty of time for the unexpected.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Marooned on the Mekong says:
    February 3, 2015 at 4:29 am

    […] Marooned on the Mekong Part 2  […]

    Reply

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