Luckily the driver and fellow passenger on our Luang Prabang Mekong River Cruise had Thai as a common language. With the passenger in the driver’s seat and the driver bent over the broken engine at the rear of the boat, adjustments were made and instructions called to turn the key at the appropriate time.
But the engine refused to start again and slowly the implications of our boat BREAKING DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MEKONG started to seep in.
Mekong River Map – Luang Prabang to Pak Ou Caves
We were not moored directly to the river’s edge, but to a strange collection of weathered rocks a little way off. The water around us was deep in places and very muddy. Canoes with motors attached cut through the channel and boats the same size as ours too, their crews steadfastly avoiding eye contact. I was very relieved and amazed when our driver produced a mobile and made a call. It never occurred to me that there would be signal in this remote area.
Mekong River Boat
The engine cover at the back of the boat is raised and our driver/boat mechanic is vainly trying to fix the problem.
Upgraded Boat to the rescue.
Upgraded Rescue Boat
When our new boat arrived it was clear we had been upgraded. Shiny lacquered wood and airplane seats replaced our multi-coloured miniature boat and tiny timber chairs. It was good to be on the move again but I felt sorry to abandon our first boat and sad looking driver.
Mekong River Water Buffalo.
I guess these buffalo belonged to somebody as they are valued animals, but they seemed free to wander of their own accord, enjoying a soak in the river when they felt like it.
Mekong River Cruise.
Mekong River Boats moored at a river village stop.
We had a private showing of weaving and whisky making at our one and only village stop on route to the Pak Ou caves. We motored past the other village – I guess we had run out of time.
Slow Boat to Luang Prabang.
Pak Ou Caves Luang Prabang Laos
Looking up at the Pak Ou Buddha caves to this amazing frieze and big and Buddha Statues of all shapes and sizes.
Originally the caves were frequented by Animist Tribes, the emphasis changing to Buddhism in the 14th Century. During the 17th Century the Kings of Lane Xang made yearly pilgrimages to the caves, until in the 18th and 19th centuries legend says there were 37,000 buddha statues in the caves. In 1992 a joint Laos/Australian conservation project commenced, but in 2001/2 well after the project’s completion, it was reported that many gold and silver statues and images had been stolen.
There appeared to be considerably fewer statues than today’s reported estimates of 2,500 (lower cave) and 2,000 (upper cave) when we visited. The ones that were in residence were dusty and certainly ancient looking, and at the lower end of a scale from to 10 cm to 1.5 metres tall. The standing position of the Buddhas is the traditional Laos style.
Buddha statues in general are cleaned for the Laos New Year which was fast approaching, and there were statue washing facilities in the caves, so an imminent wash was a possibility.
Looking out through the Frieze, Long stairs down, Monk Novices, and a chair for the weary.
It was not the caves themselves that were meant to be the attraction at Pak Ou, but the collection of historical religious statues. I fell in love with the teak Frieze entry to the top cave and the huge cavernous interiors. The frieze conjured up romantic images of India and elephants, and is my favourite photo from Laos. Or it might tie for 1st with my FAVOURITE MONK LIGHTING CANDLE PHOTO.
Mekong River Uses.
Fishing
The name Pak Ou means mouth of the Ou (river). Across from Pak Ou caves are the limestone cliffs of Pha Hen, at the base of which is a popular fishing spot and we did see lone fishermen in canoes.
Collecting River Rocks.
By far the most common sight along the river between Luang Prabang and Pak Ou Caves was the collecting of river rocks. Up to twenty people scavenged them in places, while young children played in the water or sat in the shade of fluttering material. I could not help wondering what effect this continuous rock collecting would have on the river, although it probably only took place when the water level was low.
Catching Locusts.
On shore we watched a young girl beating a bush with a long stick embedded with sharp nails at the end. She then harvested the impaled locusts, popping them into a plastic shopping bag. You will find these local delicacies for sale in the food markets in Luang Prabang.
Serendipity.
Due to our delayed arrival at the buddha caves we had lost the fleet of riverboats we departed with earlier in the day. There were a handful of other tourists at the caves, but our crew of six enjoyed an unhurried and personal tour of the caves, and then a speedy trip home in our lovely new boat!
I personally viewed our boat’s breakdown as a bonus. After all not everyone can claim to have been Marooned on the Mekong.
Have You every been Marooned?
Things to Know:
Boat Trip cost – 80,000 kip each.
It is also possible to take a Songthaew or Jumbo by road from Luang Prabang to Ban Pak Ou and then a short boat trip across river to the caves. This could be a cheaper option.
No matter how you arrive there is a further charge to enter the caves – 20,000 kip.
There are 255 steps to the top cave.
The 25 km upstream to the caves takes 1.5 hours and the return trip 1 hour.
Nancie over at Budget Travelers Sandbox hosts TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY. Click on the link for more travel photos from around the world.
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I was wondering if you were going to be forever abandoned but upgraded instead – not bad – and you got a great blog post out of the experience. What a feast for the senses this river trip was. You’ve got so many fabulous shots too.
The hazy sky was the only thing I would change about our Luang Prabang visit. I was disappointed with our photos, but they are realistic! Thanks for commenting.
There’s nothing like a little drama to remember a trip by! It would have been peaceful cruising along and seeing everyday life played out on the banks..a perfect way to see the countryside
There was no way I was going to miss this river trip when I had dearly wanted to do the two day version from Huay Xai to L.P. It did not disappoint. If only the skies had been clear!
I think a little ‘upset’ is often part of a trip like this, and agh shame for the poor boatman, but it makes it authentic and un-touristy when things don’t go quite as planned – and adrenalin levels go up too! What some gorgeous scenery, and the colour of the sky adds drama – a bright seaside blue wouldn’t be the same 🙂
Plans are made to go astray, and I could not think of a better place for it to happen. I like to think of it as a value added trip!
So good to read about how you got out of the broken down Boat!! It sure sounds like a big upgrade.
The boat ride cost 80,000 Kip – what would that be in Australia dollars?
The Monks are dressed in gorgeous colours.
Not sure I would be game enough to swim in the water – it looks muddy 🙂
That converts to $11 AUD. I didn’t like the look of the water either Lisa. The Californian guy was the only one who got in. None of us had bathers with us!
Amazing photos, as usual 🙂
Thank you Muza-chan.
You did end up with value added, I think – not just an upgraded boat, but a more personal, relaxed tour of the caves, too. There’s nothing more impersonal than queuing through a cave.
Definitely. Even though we broke down the whole thing was relaxed.
What a dreamy landscape. The strange rocks the boat is tied to look like a giant’s spine! You got some really great shots, here.
Those rocks were weird Vera. The smoke was a nuisance when taking photos!
Beautiful photos! It’s unfortunate that your boat had to break down but certainly a nice upside to get the caves to yourself!
Every cloud has a silver lining 🙂
Hi Jan, somehow the malfunction of your first boat was a blessing in disguise. You got an upgraded boat and you had a personal, and uncrowded visit in some places. I had to laugh when you mentioned about the crew of other boats avoiding eye contact. The photo of the frieze caught my eye. I enjoyed all the river shots; they’re very calming.
It definitely was a blessing. I was surprised that there was mobile reception where we broke down – could have been tricky without it.
Despite your engine troubles, this sounds like a great trip to take. It looks leisurely and quite pleasurable. I like the variety of views of the caves.
I really enjoyed it as I had been wanting to travel on the Mekong for so long.
You made it! I’m sure this is a trip that will be unforgettable.
Definitely unforgettable 🙂
So glad you got an upgrade. What a great ending to your trip and very scenic too. Those Buddha statues are beautiful!
A wonderful trip Mary. Thanks for commenting 🙂
I absolutely love your adventures. And I love your upbeat attitude when things tilt a bit out of the ordinary. This is a great post – keep ’em coming.
We save hard to travel so a few hiccups don’t bother us, in fact they add some spice. Even if they are scary at the time (this one was not at all) in retrospect they turn into great adventures. I loved wondering how long we would be there, getting to know the other passengers, and discussing what the outcome might be. Of course it helped that the cost involved was minimal 🙂
I’m so glad you were finally rescued without too much drama. That frieze cave entrance is very interesting. That’s too bad that statues have been stolen. You are making Laos very appealing to me!
I really would like to see more of Laos. I particularly wanted to see L.P. and only had 5 days so we spent them all in L.P. I do not regret that at all, but I would love to see Vientiane and the 4000 riverine islands.
That is too bad that you had to miss a village because of the breakdown. The caves seem amazing.
That’s O.K. we were not worried about missing the village. We did get to see one, and we had a bonus Riverside Stop!
Hello, glad to catch up with the rest of the journey and to see your photos. Armchair travelling on a Sunday night here in Sydney.
I spend a lot of time armchair travelling, well computer chair travelling actually. Maybe if I did less of that and more exercise I would shed a few more kilos 🙂
Sometimes the best memories come in unplanned and unexpected ways! Thanks for always linking up to our Friday Daydreamin’ – I appreciate it!
I totally agree. Travelling slow takes the pressure off and allows plenty of time for the unexpected.