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Stolac's rebuilt Carsijska Mosque BiH

BiH Roadtrip Mostar to Stolac Bosnia via Radimlja Necropolis

January 30, 2019 By Jan Robinson 21 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


After following the surprising Neretva River to Mostar in Bosnia as part of our BiH road trip and Ten Weeks in Europe, we’re back-tracking from Mostar to the Buna River junction and then heading south toward Stolac Bosnia – a town that was destroyed by war in the summer of 1993.

What You Will Find in This Post

  • Mostar on the Neretva River.
    • Images of Mostar.
  • Map of Bosnia
  • Radimlja Necropolis.
  • Stolac Bosnia.
    • Čaršijska Mosque
    • Cuprija Mosque and Inat Cuprija Bridge
    • Stolac Map
    • Vidoski Fortress/Castle
    • Badanj Cave
    • Necropolis at Boljuni
    • Stolac Info
    • More from my site

Mostar on the Neretva River.

BiH Mostar Mosque and River

Images of Mostar.

including Mostar old town, war damaged buildings and magnificent Gymnasium.

Mostar Buildings

Map of Bosnia

This map of Bosnia shows the route we took from Metković on the Bosnian/Croatia border along the Neretva River to Mostar, then Radimlja Necropolis (3km west of Stolac) and finally the rebuilt town of Stolac.

Radimlja Necropolis.

I’m often nervous that we won’t actually find the sights I’ve bookmarked, because well… it has been known to happen. In this case however, incredibly, the road goes right through the middle of the Necropolis, one of the most important medieval sites in BiH!

BiH Road Trip Pin It

Obviously the road makers of the Austro-Hungarian period didn’t consider the site worthy of a diversion and 20 or so of the tombs from the 15th and 16th centuries were lost. Numbering 133 in 1967 there are 110 today, with a few of them north and the rest south of the road.

 

Radimlja Necropolis tombs by the road in BiH

Some are tall plain chests while others are grave markers with epitaphs and bas reliefs.  They were very white and after comparing them with other images, it is easy to see they had recently been cleaned.

Tombs and carved grave markers south of the road at Radimlja Necropolis, Bosnia.

Radimlja Necropolis BiH

There was a large lone picnic table in the shade of a tall tree on the site. The offending road can be seen on the left and you can just make out a tomb on the other side.

Radimlja Necropolis BiH Picnic Table

Stolac Bosnia.

Stolac Bregava River BiH

For a town of 12,000 inhabitants, Stolac was incredibly and eerily quiet on the Sunday we were there.

Čaršijska Mosque

We parked near the centrally situated Čaršijska Mosque (1519), which together with other important structures was blown to bits in the war, the rubble being trucked to and dumped in the Bregava and Radimlja riverbeds.

On August 22nd 2001 a reconstruction of Čaršijska Mosque commenced.

Stolac's rebuilt Carsijska Mosque BiH

The old mosque looks new and it is – but it is made from the original materials recovered from the river beds.  I thought the attractive scenes on the walls overlooking the courtyard and cleansing station unusual and wonder if they were copies of the originals or a modern interpretation.

There was no-one around to ask, so we wandered toward the river and tried some ripe mulberries from a tree across the street. . Had the tree survived the war or been planted since?

War is incomprehensible.

War is Incomprehensible

 

Walking upstream 900m from the Čaršijska Mosque, we came upon another, the Cuprija Mosque and Inat Cuprija (bridge) surrounded by shady plane trees.

Cuprija Mosque and Inat Cuprija Bridge

Inat Ćuprija Stolac BiH

 

Reminders of War stand side by side with restored and new buildings in Stolac. These visual reminders made me contemplate how people move forward afterward the fighting.

Buildings are rebuilt but what of trust and forgiveness.

I hope that famous local poet Mak Dizdar was wrong when he said:

“Bosnia’s fate was to dream about justice, to work for justice, to await the justice, but never to see it alive”.

Stolac Reminders of War

Stolac Map

Vidoski Fortress/Castle

The ruined Vidoski Fort in Stolac old town, has great views over the area including Radimlja and can be reached along an uphill zig zag track from the new town. It’s name comes from the Bregava River which was originally known as the Vidostica River. If you arrive in May you could visit the Medieval Fair held each year in Stolac Old Town at the fortress.

 

Badanj Cave

Discovered in 1976 and situated in Borojevići village some 6.5 km west of Stolac, this small site has paleolithic drawings. They are rare so don’t miss the chance to drop by and have a look. It won’t take long and there is a dedicated walking track and picnic tables.

 

Necropolis at Boljuni

There is another set of tombs and gravestone markers at Boljuni, which by all accounts is less visited and very impressive, with 270 grave stones. Having already seen the amazing tombstones at Radimlja we didn’t venture out to Boljuni, but would have, time permitting.

 

Stolac Info

Radimlja Necropolis – Entrance 2 Euro

Čaršijska Mosque, Stolac Bosnia – Free Entry to the complex but check Mosque opening times on arrival.

Buses run Mostar to Stolac Bosnia hourly.

This post is linked to Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday over at Budget Travelers Sandbox.

 

Have you visited Bosnia (BiH) or experienced war?

 

Budget Travelers Sandbox
Add the link to your travel post below and read other travel stories that will have you packing your bags.

An InLinkz Link-up


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  • A Walk around Lake BledA Walk around Lake Bled
  • Tuesday in Townsville Barra and Birds at Peter Faust Dam ProserpineTuesday in Townsville Barra and Birds at Peter Faust Dam Proserpine
  • Rustem Pasha or a Mosque hidden in a Market PlaceRustem Pasha or a Mosque hidden in a Market Place
  • Fantastic Friday – Wolf Lake?Fantastic Friday – Wolf Lake?
  • Hoi Polloi Townsville with a side of Townsville Street ArtHoi Polloi Townsville with a side of Townsville Street Art

Filed Under: Bosnia and Hercegovina, Road Trips, Ruins, Ten Weeks in Europe 2015 Tagged With: Mostar, Stolac

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

Previous Post: «Boulders on Koekohe Beach in Otago, New Zealand. They take there name from Moeraki Township which is a couple of kilometres away. The Moeraki Boulders New Zealand – Big Balls of Mud
Next Post: All you need to know about Eumundi Markets Sunshine Coast »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Lisa Wood

    November 13, 2015 at 11:02 am

    oh wow Jan, how peaceful it looks there – and how beautiful. Perfect place for those that are laid to rest.
    I don’t get war, don’t understand it and never will.
    Wonderful photos of Stolac Mosque. Beautiful place

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 13, 2015 at 12:22 pm

      I think we are very lucky Lisa, not to have too many effects of wars in Australia. Townsville was bombed during WWII but no-one got hurt and I believe Darwin was bombed too. Your boys, being military minded might no about that too. It is amazing how people get on with their lives again when the war is finished.

      Reply
  2. Ruth - Tanama Tales

    November 13, 2015 at 11:46 am

    Thanks for sharing this! I have seen a lot of pictures and posts about Mostar but not detailed description of the area around the city. It is nice to learn more of what the entire area offers (and I like the road trip theme).

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 13, 2015 at 12:20 pm

      Thanks Ruth, I love road trips and that necropolis was amazing.

      Reply
  3. Marcia

    November 13, 2015 at 12:33 pm

    I like what you said – buildings can be rebuilt, but what of trust and peacefulness? Today, we heard news of the bombing in Beirut. When will this craziness end? I can’t imagine what it must be like for people there.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 13, 2015 at 1:48 pm

      The people in Croatia, Bosnia (BiH) and Montenegro seem to have moved on with their lives Marcia – I guess there is nothing else to do, but that.

      Reply
  4. Rachel Heller

    November 13, 2015 at 4:17 pm

    Lovely pictures! Indeed, it must be odd to live with constant reminders of the war, yet it shouldn’t be forgotten either.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 13, 2015 at 8:57 pm

      I don’t think it will ever be forgotten Rachel, I just hope it doesn’t recur.

      Reply
  5. Corinne

    November 13, 2015 at 6:51 pm

    Jan, Your photos are gorgeous. Unfortunately we did not get to explore as much as you in BIH.I’ve certainly got to go back.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 13, 2015 at 8:57 pm

      I’m sure you saw as much as us Corinne, we were only there for 24 hours 🙂 We didn’t get to Sarajevo which I was sad about.

      Reply
  6. Kathy Marris

    November 13, 2015 at 8:55 pm

    Oh so beautiful. I am loving your stories and photos of Croatia.

    Reply
  7. Pinky Poinker

    November 14, 2015 at 10:18 am

    So pretty and peaceful… now! The photo of Stolac is dreamy. It does look quiet and eerie.

    Reply
  8. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    November 15, 2015 at 7:40 am

    That’s too bad that building the road destroyed part of the necropolis, but I’m glad that people have cleaned them. I like the carvings and how peaceful it seems there. Seeing your photos of war ruins after reading about the horrific attack in Paris reminds me that savagery has been going on for far too long.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 15, 2015 at 2:02 pm

      Yes Michele, I think they look wonderful all cleaned up. The Paris situation is just too sad – those poor victims.

      Reply
  9. Cathy Sweeney

    November 15, 2015 at 1:22 pm

    I get an eerie feeling just looking at the photos of Stolac on the quiet day you visited. Really fascinating history in this part of Europe that I haven’t yet visited. Love your thought-provoking photos.

    Reply
    • Jan

      November 15, 2015 at 2:03 pm

      I saw two people Cahty – one a man who disappeared and the other a lady who smiled at me when I was taking a photo of a carpet hanging on a door.

      Reply
  10. Nancie

    November 16, 2015 at 7:18 am

    What a beautiful looking spot, Jan. Too bad the road had to interfere. I love the photo of the bridge. #TPThursday

    Reply
  11. Jackie Smith

    February 1, 2019 at 3:22 am

    Oh so much to see in Europe and this post has just put another area on my bucket list!! Thanks for such an informative (and entertaining) piece. Loved the photo of the mosque!

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Bond in Motion - InsideJourneys says:
    November 14, 2015 at 9:46 pm

    […] post is part of Travel Photo Thursday Link-up hosted by Budget Travelers Sandbox, Budget Travel Talk, Tanama Tales, and Rachel’s […]

    Reply
  2. Best of 2015 Travel at Budget Travel Talk says:
    January 2, 2016 at 8:19 pm

    […] ignore our driver Marty, who chose the trip from Metković in Croatia along the Neretva River to Mostar and Stolac, Trebinje and finally Kotor in […]

    Reply
  3. Over the border into Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor says:
    January 22, 2016 at 10:02 am

    […] the Neretva River to the bombed out buildings and 16th Century Ottoman Stari Most (bridge) of Mostar. It took us to the jaw dropping mediaeval tombstones of Radimlja Necropolis that slumber in an […]

    Reply

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