Istanbul holds a gold mine of memories for me. Discovering the Rustem Pasa Mosque hidden near the Spice Market in a street selling everything wooden, sitting with some Turkish kids on the thirty foot high Theodosian Walls or just living in our Galata Apartment come immediately to mind.
Remembering our day at Cengelkoy (Hook Village) on the Bosphorus in particular makes me happy.
Visiting this charming neighbourhood that clings like it’s name says in a Hook shape on the Asian shores, screamed Ferry Ride, and we can never pass one of them up.
In theory the ferry does sometimes stop at Cengelkoy, but in reality hardly so. Instead from Eminonu, we caught the ferry to Uskudur (3tl with Istanbulkart). The 9.30 Sunday morning ride was not crowded and we moved easily from side to side to see the sights. 20 minutes later we were boarding the No. 15 Bus departing from opposite Uskudur ferry terminal. The bus route took us through the neighbouring district of Beylerbeyi, famous for it’s castle near the Bridge, which somehow we failed to notice, and then on to Cengelkoy.
When the bus driver indicated we should leave, we did so thinking we had to transfer, but after walking a short distance we realized we had arrived.
The main street of Cengelkoy followed the curve in the Bosphorus with just enough space between road and water to squeeze in a few restaurants and tea gardens. Being a Moslem country I was not expecting the vibe to be the same as a Sunday back home – but it was. Families were out in force and the first tea garden, the popular Cinaralti, with tables right on the water, was full to overflowing.
The food that spread in a jumble across the tables, looked like a mix of Bakery packages, home brought contributions and dishes purchased on site. Everyone who had a seat was keeping it while a lot of hopeful would be patrons milled around. Beneath the 800 year old Sycamore tree, a vendor relaxed with his balloons. Although I pride myself on my stealth in sniffing out potential tables we left defeated.
More Balloons in the street.
The next Tea Garden we entered (see below) was less crowded and although it had water views, was set back a little with a relaxed feel. Still not 100% sure of the procedure and not wanting to offend, we pointed questioningly to some pastries at the next table to ours and then ourselves, but the Waiter shook his head and motioned toward the street.
No. Outside.
Off we went in search of our own supply of treats, ordering two glass mugs of tea for 7tl on our return. This price was more than usual but considering the size of the glass and that we purchased our food elsewhere I thought it reasonable. Our purchases, one chocolate cake infused with chocolate sauce and one boomerang cigar shaped mystery from Erbap Patisserie, a luscious glass fronted establishment that allowed for spectacular cake viewing, cost a further 7tl.
Marty loved those chocolate cakes – he ate them all over Turkey. The boomerang/cigar shaped mystery which I imagined to be filled with pastry cream, harboured a dense, possibly almond meal mixture, disguised by pistachio covered ends. I like the unexpected. It was so filling I only ate half before passing it on.
The sun was shining and the path beside the Bosphorus looked inviting. Every accessible point was crowded by fishing folk who like most Istanbulians favoured long rods. These fishermen were more successful than the hopefuls on Galata Bridge though, catching sardines six at a time using multiple hooks. We walked for as long as we could beside the water and then some, passing expensive looking homes and an old wall. A film was being made at the wall, the scene being of a suit wearing brief case toting man crossing the road. A spy if ever I saw one while the rest of the cast milled on the pathway looked quite glamorous.
In the parks picnicking Families clustered around their wood burning tea urns. In Australia a portable BBQ and an Esky (drink cooler) is considered necessary equipment for a picnic in the park, but in Turkey it was definitely an urn to make tea with. A modern parralel of Aussie Billy tea you could say. It seemed everyone wanted to be driving and showing off their cars, the bends and undulations of the Bosphorous shoreline adding a certain panache to the proceedings.
Arriving back at Cengelkoy and having now mastered Tea Garden etiquette, we purchased both spinach spiral (4tl) and meat borek (6tl), both being weighed first to determine price. We chose two different establishments to buy from, joining the lines of people to wait our turn – the spinach was our favourite. Back at the Tea Garden we opted for two softdrinks this time for the same magical 7tl total.
The trip ended with a walk back to Beylerbeyi and a return bus ride to Uskudur and our ferry home. On the European side, the Eminonu ferry stop was so close to the Spice Markets that we detoured to pick up some figs and lemons, before crossing the Galata Bridge to our third floor Galata apartment. Another intriguing day spent in Istanbul.
This post is linked to Budget Travelers Sandbox.
Photos from the Bosphorus shore at Cengelkoy.
Looking back to the crowded Cinaralti.
Pincushion Island at the Mouth of the Maroochy River Queensland
OMG Turkish desserts! My absolute weakness. This pictures were torture…! ;D
-Maria Alexandra
He He Sorry Maria 🙂
Jan, I love, love, love these photos. I’ve never seen them catching multiple sardines…fun!
Cengelkoy was definitely the place to fish Corinne 🙂
Jan, your posts and photos from Turkey make me really sad we didn’t have time to visit on our recent trip to Europe. Croatia was fabulous though and of course we can’t wait to get back! Please keep your Turkey posts coming so that I can stash lots of ideas away for when we do get to go.
Jo we met some Aussies from Perth in Turkey and they Spent 3 weeks in Croatia and 3 in Turkey and they said they would have been better not trying to see both Countries. There will be plenty more Turkey posts 🙂
I’m learning about so many new things to do/see in Istanbul from you! This neighborhood looks fantastic.. I would love to just relax at a tea garden, and those sweets look tooooo tempting!! I love that picture of the old dilapidated house… it certainly has a charm to it!
Yes it was a great neighborhood Anna. I have been learning from your Uruguay posts too 🙂
OH MY GAWD the food in that one photo, Jan! My mouth is literally watering! Thank gawd my meal break is literally in a few minutes. It’s a holiday here and I took a 15 minute online vacation from work to escape with your post and all of these incredible photos!! You know which one I LOVED just a little more than the rest? Is the black and white outdoor café pic…it’s so retro! I’m going to go back and look at the pics all over again now….thank you! 🙂 We hope all is well with you guys! 🙂
Glad you enjoyed the pics Mike and we are well thanks. On holidays on the Sunshine Coast.
Mmm, that food looks incredible, wow! Now I’m craving Turkish cuisine…!
I love food in general, but it was exciting purchasing Turkish goodies and having them in the tea garden. 🙂
Love your shots, Jan. The tea shop etiquette is fascinating. I like the fact that you purchase your food from another merchant, and not at the tea shop. It’s a great way to give everyone a piece of the pie (pardon the pun). Those pastries look fab!
Some food could be purchased at the tea garden but not pastries it seemed. 🙂 A wonderful system I agree Nancie.
What a great area Jan. The boreks and cakes look so delicious. You’ve made me realise how much I’m missing Turkish food…oh to be back in Istanbul!
I want to go back 🙁 So many more places to explore in Istanbul alone.
I would love to spend some time in this town. It seems like it’d be really family friendly. That food looks delicious. I also would have expected that boomerang pastry to have pastry cream in it, like a cannoli.
This is a suburb of Istanbul but only 15 mins by ferry from Galata Bridge which to my way of thinking is central Istanbul (possibly a tourists opinion, lol). I am glad that I was not the only one fooled by the pastry. 🙂 What is it like being back in Texas?
Wonderful photos. We only spent a day in Istanbul and now I see we really missed the heart of the city. I pinned several of these.
Thanks for pinning Rhonda. There are so many areas in Istanbul to explore, I would love to go back!
Hi Jan,
Looks like a fun and delicious exploration. i like that you visit this enclave that so local. I enjoyed you shot of very local scenes – people hanging out in the tea garden, fishermen with their catch, and of course, the delish delicacies. I love your shot of that old wooden home next to a very modern market.
the food looks incredible 🙂
Thanks for sharing your magical time in Bosphorus, its seems so much cheaper to eat overseas compared to Australia 🙂
It was a lovely day Lisa. The food, the experience, the walk along the Bosphorus.
I have heard a lot about Cengelkoy; it is a suburban city close to Istanbul. The place is famous for its cuisine and picturesque view. However, most of the people who visit Istanbul don’t know about this beautiful place. Thanks to your article, now more people will know about the tourist attribute of this town that borders Asia and Europe.
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