With a long time between trips to Rome we found ourselves revisiting the big sites, but this time we wanted to discover what to do in budget Rome off the Beaten Track. This was when we found the Rome Riones of Aventino, Testaccio and Ostiense. Aventino, the hilly suburb overlooking Rome is quite well known but Testaccio and Ostiense are not often visited by non-locals.
We loved staying is Trastevere, Beyond the Tiber (river) and I do think it is the best place to stay in Rome for first timers. Walking it’s buzzing alleys is a favourite past-time with travellers, foodies and locals. We stayed there in the April of 10 Weeks in Europe and it was such an easy place to explore from and return home to.
It is easy to follow Trastevere’s atmospheric streets on the west bank of the Tiber to the Vatican City, across to Villa Borghese in the north, before filtering back home via the Pantheon, Piazza Navona and Campo del Fiori. Other walks lead west to the Palatine, Forum and Colosseum.
Trastevere is well connected by bridges and crossing the Tiber via Ponte Palatino led us to the interesting neighbourhoods further south to the Rome off the beaten track areas of Aventino, Testaccio and Ostiense.
Made to Pin.
What You Will Find in This Post
Aventino
A desirable address – Via Santa Melania.
Directly across the river from Trastevere and south of Circo Massimo is Aventino.
Named after Aventine Hill (one of the original seven), Aventino is well-known for extensive views across the Tiber as far as St. Peter’s Basilica and over to historic Rome. Parco Savello’s towering plane trees captivated us from the wrap around windows of our Airbnb apartment and it was gratifying to finally stand beneath them with Rome spread out before us.
Don’t be tempted by the orange laden trees in the walled garden as they’re not eating oranges. If they were, I’m sure the homeless who sleep there would be appreciative. The fountain on the bottom left below, is situated next door at Santa Sabina Basilica.
Aventino does not draw the amount of tourists that attractions further north do and it is a romantic, out of the way destination.
Here you’ll find some beautiful real estate and Aventino tops the list of desirable addresses for many Rome residents. Before sauntering through streets lined with beautiful homes, gardens and classic hotels, turn right onto Via Santa Sabina on leaving the park and pass by the 5th Century Santa Sabina Basilica (closed for a function) to partake of a Surprise.
Santa Sabina Basilica.
The Aventine Keyhole – A Surprise.
The surprise is a view through a door keyhole that takes in three countries – Malta, Rome, Vatican City!
- The door is on the property of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta,
- the second being Rome,Italy and finally
- the recognised independent State of the Vatican City.
Arriving early in the morning worked well for us with hardly any wait at all.
Although we knew to look through the keyhole, we didn’t know what we would see, so it was exciting in a voyeuristic way. Sorry I have spoiled the surprise for you!
Look through the keyhole of the green door for the (non) surprise.
So as not to feel pressured if the crowds are lined up behind you, I would suggest pre-setting your camera.
Also on Aventino hill is Rome’s Rose Garden, Via di Valle Murcia, 6, Rome, Italy, Open May and June.
Aventino directions.
- Walking. From the river crossing at Ponte Palatino, walk down Via della Greca taking the first street on the right after the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church, home of the Mouth of Truth. It is easy to walk to this position from Piazza Venezia.
- Metro: Circo Massimo.
Testaccio
Leaving Aventine Hill behind, cross Via Marmorata to Barbareni Pasticceria at No. 41. This is a local hangout with standing room only at the bar on Saturday mornings. Our two pastries and excellent cappuccinos, consumed seated, hit the spot and were incredibly affordable. It is easy to see that Testaccio is much cheaper than the touristic centre of Rome.
Meanwhile, a seven minute walk behind the Pasticceria, through wide tree lined streets is Testaccio Food Market in Via Aldo Manuzio. While the market building itself lacks character, the Roa painting next door (Avanguardie Urbane Roma Street Art Festival 2014) speaks volumes. Testaccio is an edgy neighbourhood where I would love to rent an Airbnb apartment. While not that convenient for first time sight seeing, it would be excellent to experience life like a local.
- Nearest Metro: Piramide
Roma Ostiense
Walk along Via Marmorata in the direction of the ancient Piramide of Cestius and the Piramide Roma Metro station named after it and turn down Via Ostiense.
The Tomb of Gaius Cestius, is now joined into the City wall and is beautifully preserved.
It was our last day in Rome and a public holiday, so most of the shops were closed, their shutters adorned with mural advertisements and graffiti.
On the corner of Via del Porto Fluviale is a work by famous street artist Blu on the former aeronautical building, now the Fronte del Porto squat. Blue turned the windows into the eyes of monsters/aliens in 2013 and in 2014 painted a ship cum metropolitan construction site, complete with pirates on the end of the building. Continue along Via del Porto Fluviale for more street art.
I like the way downtrodden buildings are given new life with street art.
Eataly Roma.
From this corner head down Via Pellegrino Matteucci to Eataly Roma.
What is Eataly?
A huge upmarket Italian grocery store, opened in June 2012 in an abandoned airport building. Escalators ply the floors which sell Italian products and house 18 restaurants, craft breweries and pre-bottled or bottle your own wine. There are many other Eatalys both in Italy and around the world and they deliver world wide.
Travel Tip: There is a subterranean connection from Pyramid Metro but it looks creepy. If unsure use the overland route described in this post.
- Address: 12 ottobre 1492
- Nearest Metro: Piramide
- Nearest Intercity Train: Ostiense
- Parking for 600 vehicles.
Along the way check out Abitart Hotel, a work of art in itself and an interesting place to call home while in Rome, with it’s whimsically themed rooms.
- Address: Via Pellegrino Matteucci, 10, 00154 Roma RM, Italy
- Nearest Metro: Piramide
- Nearest Intercity Train: Ostiense
Crazily, we then walked another 1.5 kilometres further along Via Ostiense to the largest church in Rome outside of the Vatican’s St. Peter’s, namely the Basilica di San Paolo. Originally built by Constantine in the 4th Century and damaged by fire in 1834, it was rebuilt in the 19th Century. It’s size was impressive and there were busloads of people arriving to view it. If you’re looking for an ancient building you might be disappointed but if you are of the faith this rebuilt basilica will be of interest as it is one of Rome’s original four ancient, Papal, major basilicas.
- Address: Piazzale San Paolo, 1, 00146 Roma
- Nearest Metro: Basilica San Paolo Line B
Rome Neighbourhoods Map
The below map pinpoints the points of interest in the above neighbourhoods as well as some previously covered highlights like The Baths of Caracalla and lunch at Al Callarello.
Have you been to Aventino, Testaccio or Ostiense? What did you like best about Rome off the beaten track?
I am cohost of Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travelers Sandbox, together with Ruth from Tanama Tales and Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations. If you have a blog you can add a link to one of your posts containing a travel photo below. Feel free to link back to this site in your blog also.
Dickson Inlet from the Deck of the Lady Douglas
It’s always good to get beyond the obvious tourist attractions. I hadn’t heard of any of these areas of Rome but they look well worth investigating if I ever go back. I’m a fan of street art too, and that building looks wonderful.
They were an eye-opener for me Anabel – quite different to the historical area.
It looks so beautiful, I love how even the less architectural buildings have been given a special revamp with the street art. What a fabulous trip!
When I was researching this post, I discovered there was so much more street art in Ostiense – and we had no idea!
Oh my Jan! You knocked out of the park with this post. These neighborhoods are so fascinating. Aventino looks very different from the other too. I like to visit neighborhoods somewhat separated form the city core. Gives you a better idea of how people live (and yes, you do not have to share with tons of visitors).
I’m happy that you enjoyed it Ruth. I had more to put in this post but it was getting far to lengthy. I’ll be doing another post shortly.
Love this tour of the neighbourhoods of Rome. I’ve heard that Rome can be a nightmare in peak tourist season so maybe you had the right idea exploring some of the other areas of Rome. I haven’t been to Italy yet, but I’m dying to go!
Hi Kathy, We went to Rome because it was the most convenient place to fly into in Europe. We spent 4 days there on arrival and 2 days on departure and I really enjoyed it. I would definitely go there again. There is so much more to see. The first part of the stay was spent on conventional sight seeing in the historic centre and the rest in the Southern suburbs.
Great photos! I’ve been to Rome, but I’ve sen Aventino not these other places:)
I’ve explored Rome several times, but have never been to these neighborhoods. I guess that’s a reason to return, eh?! 🙂
I hadn’t heard of these places either, Jan, but I love the look and feel and being within walking distance to Rome and Vatican City. Beautiful photos!
Imagine being able to call one of these neighborhoods home. We didn’t visit these while we were in Rome. They look like worthwhile stops if I return with time to explore more deeply. I like that food market and am impressed by the artwork that encompasses the entire building. If I were the artist, I’d have to keep getting down from my painting perch to run across the street to see how I was doing.
Our daughter is an artist Michele and she is amazed at how quickly these art works get done. She watched one huge one like this being done in our home town and she said it was so quick it just happened before her eyes.
Brilliant post showing us the Rome we don’t usually see Jan. I love to street art. What a pity there isn’t more of it here. The wolf is spectacular. I also love the Italian water features. I’m confused as to what you could see through the keyhole though.
A view across Rome to the Vatican City Pinky. The view is through property belonging to 3 different sovereignties.
I’m a big fan of Testaccio too Jan. We spent hours at the market before exploring the rest of the area. I’d love to stay there too. We could then explore the other areas of Rome that we never seem to have time to do.
I hesitated to say it in my blog post but Testaccio reminded me of NYC. Did you get that vibe at all (in the streets around the market)?
Beautiful photos, Jan. I didn’t even know about these neighborhoods and it looks like we were near the areas too. What little gems you found here. I would love to visit during the return trip. I love all the street art and who knew there was an ancient Pyramid in Rome. Thanks for the ideas!
That Pyramid was a real surprise to me too Mary. Even when the Metro stop was called Pyramid I didn’t click that there would actually be one there! Have a merry christmas.
I haven’t been beyond Rome except probably to Ostia and it’s so refreshing for my eyes to see a different side of it. 🙂
I’ve not been to Ostia Noemi, but I did enjoy seeing a different side of Rome.
Man… I wish I could take it easier on my trips and meander around instead of rushing through all the tourist spots – then I’d be able to go to neat places like this.
Thanks for this article, it brings back memories of our visit. It is such an interesting neighborhood. Feel free to have a look at our visit https://blog.myvideomedia.com/rome-off-beaten-path/