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MONKS, BUDDHAS AND PHOUSI

January 2, 2012 By Jan Robinson 5 Comments

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Even though we knew we had to be in position by 6 a.m. to see Tak Bat, (the monks receiving alms from the public), we managed to arrive late.  This gave us an unconventional view of the early morning ritual – that of following along behind the monks – and they set a mean pace I can tell you.  I guess we would too if we were on our way to get our first of only two meals for the day.  Oh well, we could look upon it as research – at least we knew the route they took now.
Our second attempt at Tak Bat, happened on our last day in Luang Prabang.  As is the case when we are leaving a place, we had jumped out of bed, eager not to miss anything that our last morning might bring us.  Thankfully we were in place at Wat Mai, the local Wat in Ban Pakham, when the monks arrived this time.  I don’t believe in getting in people’s faces when I take photos, especially not at a religious event, so our photos were from afar on full zoom, so are not that clear.  I felt privileged to experience this daily ritual that is so vital to the monks and means so much to the Laos people.
Taking advantage of the cooler temperatures of early morning, we headed up Phousi Hill, as soon as the monks departed.  Well known as a viewing platform for a Mekong Sunset, we opted for a morning ascent as the air was very smokey, and the sunset would not be that wonderful.  In tourist season many people congregate on the Phousi summit every afternoon to photograph the sunset.

I was happy that we were up there by ourselves to greet the sun as it’s strange light shone through the haze.

Phousi, as it is affectionately known, is smack bang in the middle of the old town and has a zig zaggy white topped staircase that leads up from Th Sisavangvong on the Mekong side of the hill.

The glittering gold spires on Wat Chom Si at the summit can be seen from all over town.

Novice monks, climbed all over the Stupa, lighting candles as directed by a group of white clad women, who when happy with the positioning of the candles sat in a row in front of the stupa  to pray.

After discreetly watching the women praying, I placed an offering at the base of the Stupa,

and we headed off on a meandering walk atop the hill, with only a handsome street dog for company.

The path took us past the remains of an old Russian machine gun mounting,
and a  (genuine) buddha footstep, now accentuated with gold paint,

after which a golden naga staircase led the way –

past a series of golden Buddhas – One for every day of the week, plus more!

Continuing on and down,  the track deposited us on Phousi Road on the Nam Kahn side of the hill,  and we hot-tailed it back to the Guesthouse for one last scrumptious breakfast.   We spared a thought for the monks who would have, at the same time, been tucking into their steamed rice offerings.

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Filed Under: Laos

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Lisa wood

    January 3, 2012 at 5:16 pm

    Oh Wow – I so would love to see the monks – Gosh that looks amazing – the statues and the stairs!! Incredible.
    I went to the buddhist temple at Eudlo but this – this looks one place that is a must to visit! Thanking you for sharing your early morning, and your amazing visit to see the Tak Bat

    Cheers
    Lisa

    Reply
    • Jan

      January 3, 2012 at 9:34 pm

      I really loved the monks. They walk around town with their umbrellas up (against the sun) and their man bags on their shoulders. There are a huge amount of old Wats – most of which are in original state (not restored) so are showing their age, but their beauty remains.

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Capture the Colour Photography Competition says:
    August 2, 2012 at 10:43 am

    […] this photo tells the story of late dry season, the skies hazy with smoke.   Our dawn ascent of Mount Phousi,  was not early enough to miss the lady selling offerings at the bottom, so we arrived at the […]

    Reply
  2. Fantastic Friday Laos Rooster says:
    March 17, 2013 at 4:03 pm

    […] Have a Fantastic Friday.  READ MORE ABOUT LUANG PRABANG HERE. […]

    Reply
  3. Resuming our Mekong River Trip from Luang Prabang to Pak Ou Caves says:
    March 21, 2013 at 12:15 pm

    […] It was not the caves themselves that were meant to be the attraction at Pak Ou, but the collection of historical religious statues.  I fell in love with the teak Frieze entry to the top cave and the huge cavernous interiors.  The frieze conjured up romantic images of India and elephants, and is my favourite photo from Laos.  Or it might tie for 1st with my FAVOURITE MONK LIGHTING CANDLE PHOTO. […]

    Reply

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