Madrid has more than 40 parks within it’s Urban limits, but none are more popular than the 350 acre Retiro Park. Within walking distance of the historic centre, it is popular every day, but Sunday is the day that Madrilenos visit the garden en masse.
Originally the gardens of the Palace, it was opened to the Public in 1767 and became the property of the City in 1868 upon the overthrow of Queen Isabella II.
Already footsore from the cobblestones of Segovia that morning and trying to cram as much as possible into what remained of our last day in Madrid, we gladly took the Metro arriving at the well placed Retiro Stop.
It was spring time and the green water of the man made pond was dotted with row boats.
Monument to Alfonso VII
A rather grand monument of a mounted King Alfonso XII dominates a semi circle of columns, with steps that progress down to the pond. These steps, where drumming circles form today, and where visitors and locals alike congregate to watch the boat action, are on the exact same spot where Felipe IV walked on an over the pond pier in the early 1600’s.
Two of the park’s current buildings, the Palacio de Velázquez (1884) and the Crystal Palace (1887) were designed by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco who honed his skills working on renovations of the illustrious ALHAMBRA of Granada and MEZQUITA of Cordoba.
The Crystal Palace
Constructed of glass and Iron on a base of brick, and decorated with tiles, the overall appeal of the building is that of a magical palace. Designed to be relocated, it still sits on the original site beside it’s own man made pond. Although vacant when we were there in April, this fantastical Palace, is usually home to art exhibitions.
I was captivated and wished it had been open so I could have entered and dreamed a little, looking to the skies through the transparent roof, and if at night maybe to the stars. The pond in the forecourt and the trees that overhung from the gardens behind, added to it’s magical appeal.
In reality it was built as a greenhouse to display the flora and fauna of the Philippines, a once Spanish colony. It seemed contradictory that such a structure was built merely to house an exhibition. Amazingly there is supposedly another such beauty situated in London, upon which this Crystal Palace was modeled.
Little boys in navy blue and white sailor outfits were placed beside the pond while doting mamas and papas photographed them. While I watched that cute scene, a man picked up his little white dog, placed it on the balustrade overlooking the pond and together they posed, gazing into the distance (or maybe at each other) while his wife dutifully snapped away.
The sounds of an ethereal violin floated on the air – I was totally smitten with the Crystal Palace.
Palacio de Velázquez
Lying between the large boating pond and the smaller one to the front of the Crystal Palace this building had a more earthly spirit. Built to house a Mining and Metallurgy exhibition, the two toned brick building with it’s splash of blue tiles, is a venue for temporary exhibits from the Reina Sofia Museum. However it too was closed that day.
Thankfully the weather did allow us to roam and people watch in the life filled gardens. Although the layout of the garden was formal, the spring flowers were left to grow in a profusion that made me think more of wild meadows – a delightful effect.
Some fitness devotees donned gloves and boxed amid the flowers, cyclists rode by and everywhere there were children dressed in their best clothes, eating ice-creams or carrying balloons. On week-ends parents and children turn out to enjoy puppet theatre performances.
The chatter and laughter of the rowers spilled over from the pond to mingle with the hum of people relaxing at the outdoor bars.
Madrid seems fascinated by human statues. They congregate in the plazas, on footpaths, around the fountains and of course in Retiro Park.
We left the park on foot, passing a snaking line of tourists waiting their turn to view a selection of the more than 9000 paintings owned by the nearby Prado Museum.
I was happy that we were planning to spend our remaining time in Madrid, enjoying some well earned drinks and absorbing the people culture of one of my favourite places, the Plaza del Angels.
Handy to Know:
If the weather is fine Retiro Park is the perfect budget travel experience. Entrance is free.
Allow a couple of hours.
In Summer there are free concerts in the park and children’s shows.
Boat Hire approx. 6 Euro for 45 minutes – you could even take a picnic on board.
Metro Stops – Retiro – Atocha Renfe
Retiro is easy to visit. It is close to other places of interest, namely, Fountains Neptuno and Cibeles, Reina Sofia, Prado, Puerta de Alcala.
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What an absolutely gorgeous place! And the Crystal Palace is swoonworthy. I’d want to find a seat and stay there all day. 🙂
So beautiful and the violin added the final touch.
Wow, the crystal palace is fantastic! How magical- I’d love to visit that building.
Agreed, hope to go inside next time.
oh wow – the Crystal Palace is amazing. I loved the parks in Paris, it looks like Madrid has many wonderful parks too. A great place to stroll and people watch.
Thanks for stopping by my blog today. Have a wonderful week.
Thanks Jill, I only saw Retiro and it is supposed to be the best, but I bet there are lots of other great ones as well.
Oh this brought back such memories! The Chrystal Palace in particular. . .we were there in spring two years ago and now I so want to return. . .
I love spain all over (not that I have been everywhere) and can’t wait to go back.
My gosh, THAT many parks? Incredible. I can remember visiting once and we never made it into the city off the ring road! Next time I shall definitely take a gps and go visit some of the wonderful places you mention!
It seems a lot but I guess if each suburb has one then they would soon add up. We did not drive in Spain but can sympathize.
Great photos, I love Madrid too…
Thanks Muza-chan, such a lovely and surprising Country.
Oh gosh I so think that I could stay at the Madrids Retro Park for ever….the photo with the dog on the railing and the man is a classic!!
The colours, the culture, the scenery – couldn’t ask for a better place to experience it all. I reckon it would take days to really soak all of it in.
Thanks Lisa, I do hope I get to go back one day.
Looks like a great place to while away an aternoon. I can’t get over the colour of the water in the man-made lake – nor the Crystal Palace. What a beautiful structure it is!
Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi is the same colour and it is horribly polluted, although it does have one very old and big turtle living in it’s waters. The turtle is sick needless to say. I have read reports of lots of fish living healthily in Retiro, so I guess the water is quite clean? I guess it must get hot in the Crystal Palace after all it was a conservatory – a bit of a quandary for art exhibitions – and if you A/C’d it wouldn’t the glass condense. Hmmm.
I can see why you were so enamoured with the Crystal Palace! I was too 🙂 The first picture I saw of it I thought it was a greenhouse and it originally was! I really enjoy city parks like these.
I think the parks of big cities are amazing. I have never lived in a big city, but can imagine that weather permitting I would be down in the park often.
I loved Retiro Park. Thanks for taking me on this ‘visit.’ I need to go back!
I want to go back as well!
I’ve only ever been in Madrid on business and have sadly not had the time to explore the city much. Retiro Park looks relaxing and pretty; love the Crystal Pavilion.
Hi Sophie, Hmm. Madrid on business. I have never thought of that. Such an amazing city, but then it is the capital I guess.
I didn’t visit Retiro Park when I was in Madrid last January. It was just too cold. Your photos are great, and I definitely need to go back to enjoy this in person.
Yes Nancie, it definitely would not be a pleasant experience in the bitter cold.
I certainly need to put this park on my list for a future visit to Madrid, Jan. A very interesting post, then. All the best from Chile…
Thanks Andrew, How come you are living in Chile?
We were in Madrid a few years ago and Retiro park was one of the places we visited and loved it. We didn’t get to do the row boats but enjoyed everything about it. Beautiful pictures!
Thanks Mary, That is great that you have been there and enjoyed it too.
Oh wow! This place is beautiful and I had never heard about it. Guess that’s another thing added to my list when I finally get to visit Spain.
Sometimes I hate recommending countries to people, because I am not sure if they will like them, but I am confident that you will not regret visiting Spain.
I love European parks – they are such beautiful places to spend a day – and this one looks particularly lovely! The Crystal Palace is stunning – there’s one at Disney World as well that looks like it could have been modelled after this.
That is funny Lisa – There is a Crystal Palace chain happening! I have not seen the one in London – I wonder if it is much the same?
The Crystal Palace is quite beautiful. I was thinking that it reminded me of the one in London, so thanks for the clarification. I also really enjoyed the close up photos of the tile detail. This park sounds like a great find.
Is the one in London the same?
Such a pretty place, when we were there it was winter and snowing, and though it was pretty with a light dusting of snow, it would be great to see it in the summer when it’s more lively and filled with people. I love those row boats!
Oohh – I would like to see the Crystal Palace with a sprinkling of snow. Parks are definitely better in Spring or Autumn.
Now that is a park! That Crystal Palace looks like a dream. I have only really explored Barcelona but I must get to Madrid if not just to get lost in Retiro Park.
Thanks – Madrid is totally different to Barcelona and well worth a visit Suzy.
Do you think it was based on the famous Crystal Palace in London that burnt down in 1936?
There is a pretty amazing glass house still in Kew Gardens – but not as gorgeous as this one – which is totally divine 😀
Yes, As far as I can tell that is the one Linda. 🙂 I was so impressed by this one in Retiro Park, especially as it was built to be removable but is still going strong.
Wow! The Crystal Palace is just a take-your-breath-away kind of a place! How absolutely stunning. That would totally motivate me to get to Madrid!
I love it when big cities have such lovely green areas. Spain is a wonderful place to visit.
I can see why you were captivated by the crystal palace – it so ornate. The water in that pond is so green, it almost looks fake. I would love to travel to Spain one day.
Spain is my favourite country to visit Kathy (after Turkey of course) and I would love to go back. I’d also return to Portugal in a heartbeat.