In 2010 we spent five days AT A RENTED FARMHOUSE near Castel del Piano, some 20 km from the Abbey Sant’Antimo. We had heard about this abbey, where you could listen to Gregorian chanting, so we included it in a day trip in our baby Fiat. The tinier the car, the better on Tuscan back roads!
Built between the eleventh and twelfth centuries this monastery is guarded by ancient olive trees. If those trees could talk it would be a very interesting history lesson. The first records of the Abbey date back to 814 in the time of Charlemagne’s son Louis the Pious but it is believed the original monastery dates back even further to 781. In later years it was abandoned until some monks moved in and started renovating in the 1990’s. I liked it for it’s clean yet grand lines and it’s lack of adornment within. Endearingly, the bell tower has a slight lean to it.
Arriving at 12.45 pm we settled down minutes before the Canons dressed in their all white habits drifted through the side door. Settling silently into opposing pews their ethereal chant began. The sound had a purity that matched the integrity of the interior and hovered delicately in the huge space.
By Dongio (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Sant’Antimo has been described as one of the best examples of an Italian Abbey at the beginning of the Twelfth Century. It is of the Romanesque era which predated the Gothic. Built on a pilgrim path from northern Europe to Rome called the Via Francigena, pilgrims traditionally found shelter within its walls.
The Abbey stands proudly 10 km south of Montalcino and 50km south of Siena amongst the grapes, cypress and ancient olives in an iconic Tuscan setting. Montalcino is the hilltop home of the famous Brunello di Montalcino wine. Brunello which roughly translates to Little Dark One is made from Sangiovese grapes grown on these particular hill slopes.
How to get there.
I recommend having your own hire car as there is much to see in the area. Lock your valuables out of sight in the boot in this car park to discourage thieves.
If you happen to be staying in Montalcino there are three buses per day (under 2 Euro) to Castelnuovo dell’Abate just a short walk away from the Abbey.
If you have 3 hours to spare there is a walking path leading from Montalcino that delivers you into the abbey’s parking area.
The Best Time to Visit.
At 12.45 mid April we more or less had the place to ourselves. Lonely Planet suggests the morning at which time the sun streams through the Eastern Windows. Others suggest the evening when the abbey is lit up. I have heard reports of bus loads of tourists during the day, which I feel would spoil the chanting, so maybe if you go to the 12.45 you will be lucky like us. Arrive 10 minutes before the time slot to allow a walk around the interior and take photos. As we arrived just on time and left before the service was over we did not feel comfortable taking photos of the inside.
Entrance is Free
For more travel photos head on over to BUDGET TRAVELERS SANDBOX where Nancie hosts Travel Photo Thursday.
Tuesday in Townsville The Queens Gardens Part 2
A beautiful trip, Jan. I have often thought the same thing about ancient trees — oh, the stories they could tell! I’d love to hear from that old olive tree, too.
So glad you were able to experience the chanting without busloads of tourists. Sound like an amazing atmosphere.
We’ve never made it south of Siena, but will definitely follow your directions our next time there to this very special abbey.
~Josie
I loved Siena too Josie. Having a car was the best thing. I am not religious but the chanting had a haunting quality to it that was impressive.
What a wonderful discovery – I love learning about lovely little places like this that I’ve not heard of before.
Surprisingly it is in Lonely Planet’s Tuscany and Umbria, but we heard about it from the owner of our farmhouse who was a tour guide.
Looks so peaceful there. Listening to the chanting would be an amazing experience.
It was lovely in a haunting kind of way, and it was especially nice that there were hardly any other people.
The visit to the abbey sounds magical. I’d love to hear the space filled with chanting. I think it would give me the shivers. And staying at a farmhouse sounds like a fun way to feel like a local.
It was a bit shivery, especially as the monks wore white robes and all was quiet except for the chanting. The farmhouse was a dream.
Oh my goodness! I thought this place sounded familiar and when you described its location I knew we had been there – we stayed in Montalcino a few years ago. I remember the chanting (it was taped at the time we were there) a haunting, Holy sound. And you captured the statue that somewhere I too have a photo of – taken almost from the same spot!
It is a small world Jackie!
What an incredible experience!
It was incredible and I am not even religious. Awe inspiring.
This part of Tuscany is so beautiful. How perfect that you arrived in time for the chanting and without the busloads of tourists.I enjoyed my visit here with you!
Thanks Jenny, The owner of our rented farmhouse did walking tours and told us what time to arrive to hear the chanting.
Wow..what a great gem to visit. I love its scenery and architecture and I can’t imagine how glorious the chanting must have sounded. It’s been our dream to drive the backroads of Tuscany in a baby Fiat 🙂
Tuscany lived up to our expectations. Hope you get to do it.
The olive tree looks great 🙂
Thanks Muza-chan, I think it is really old.
What a wonderful trip, Jan. You really bring it alive, and I too wish that ancient trees could talk. In WA we have 400 year old Karri trees, that I would love to have a chat with! Just imagine 🙂
Jo I have seen those trees. Pemberton was one of my favourite towns in the south west. I will never forget driving down dirt roads with giants towering over us and the light flickering through.
I can just hear the chanting echoing off these ancient walls and floating above the olive trees. Beautiful – and it’s free. Worth the drive, I’d say.
We were so lucky to experience it with just a few others.
Wow, what an experience! Some how chants and music sound better coming from inside a church. Your picture of the Tuscan view is why so many people visit Tuscany! Beautiful.
Yes Tuscany is great. The area around where we stayed at Castel del Piano was beautiful in a more rugged way than northern Tuscany.
now this is exactly what I would like to do – rent a house in Italy, or France or Spain. My dream! We have only been to Europe once and loved every minute.
We saw an ancient olive tree there – and were amazed that they actually knew the date it was planted!
Have a wonderful week, and thank you for stopping by my blog today. I would love to go to Seville to see the Flamenco dancers.
I think there was a sign saying how old this olive tree was but I didn’t take a photo of it. This was in April 2010. I tried researching on the internet but could not find out the age of it. We were in Spain last year and I recommend it. It was one of our best trips.
All of your shots are gorgeous, Jan! I would love to hear the chanting. I understand you not taking photos. Definitely would break the spell. Some things are simple meant to be experienced without worrying about that next great shot 🙂
Thanks Nancie. I hate missing photographs, but I know when I do, it was because I was spellbound.
How I love Tuscany! One can visit again and again and always finds something beautiful and historic to discover. This Abbey is such an interesting find. I’d love to visit it t to hear the ethereal chant and to see that ancient olive tree. How I wish that tree can talk! Thanks for taking me back to beautiful, rustic Tuscany!
I agree Marisol. There is just so much to see there and I love the country life of Tuscany.
Now that is some Farmhouse! I love exploring old buildings and old churches – they have such character and charm.
You sure have gorgeous photos 🙂
Our farmhouse (in the link) was really wonderful. Since we were there it has had a swimming pool with a view added. The Abbey was beautiful and in a wonderful area as well.