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Split Croatian National Theatre

Split Walking Tour with Gelato and Splitska Torta

November 2, 2019 By Jan Robinson 22 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


Discover how delightful walking in the vibrant port town of Split Croatia can be on this self-guided Split walking tour. Starting on the waterfront at the small boat port of Matejuška, it discovers a great value Split restaurant, historical streets, a massive square, the best gelato in Split before finishing at the ever popular people’s square of Narodni Trg.

It answers the question:

What is Splitska Torta?

“Spoiler Alert”

…it involves layers of a mystery meringue and that is not a bad thing.

Seriously the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia is stunning and unique and with so many things to do in Split, I know you will love this Adriatic Port town.

Our free self-guided walking tour of Split is the perfect way to familiarise yourself with the charming Split waterfront and the streets and squares that line it.

Two more self-guided Split tours I think you will enjoy are our Cycle Split beaches and a self-guided Split walking tour through Diocletian’s Palace.

Click here to book guided walking tours of Split.

 

Hooked on Split Croatia

 

What You Will Find in This Post

  • Matejuska Split Small Boat Harbour
  • Buffet Fife Split Review
  • St. Mark’s, Prokurative or Replublic Trg Square
  • Marmontova Street
      • General Marmont’s Role in Split History
    • The Pirja Fountain on Marmontova
    • Split Public Spa Bath
    • Marmontova’s Belly Button
    • Croatian National Theatre Split
    • Varoš – Split’s Oldest Pharmacy
    • Getting familiar with the area.
  • Best Gelato in Split at Luka Icecream and Cakes
  • Find the best Splitska Torte in Split
  • Palace Milesi in Fruit Square Split
  • Narodni Trg or People’s Square.
    • More from my site

Matejuska Split Small Boat Harbour

Matejuška is the name of the area at the western end of the Riva where the small boat harbour is. The Riva in Split is a wide palm tree lined promenade where tourists and locals go to check out the action, drink, eat and stroll.

The hook statue at the boat harbour is meant to farewell fishermen as they go to sea (or so the story goes) but it also works well as a photograph prop.

Matejuska is a busy place at night with everyone meeting up for drinks or a cheap home-style meal at Buffet Fife.

 

Buffet Fife Split Review

The Calamari and Chips at Buffet Fife could easily feed two people, especially with the addition of a salad. It tasted just as good as it looks.

The other dish shown below is a traditional Dalmatian meal called Pasticada, where beef is marinated in vinegar, cooked in red wine and served with gnocchi.

Split Croatia Buffet Fife Meals

 

It is a friendly kind of place where you will most likely be asked to share a table, unless your party can fill all the places.  Look for a traditional stone house with tables spilling onto front and side terraces.

Split Croatia Buffet Fife

Our Airbnb host gave us several eating suggestions but Fife was his go-to choice for an inexpensive filling meal after a big day or before a night out.

From here make your way slowly east toward the Diocletian’s Palace.

 

St. Mark’s, Prokurative or Replublic Trg Square

First stop on the left is St. Mark’s Square…

Split gained this replica when a homesick Venetian architect living in Split built a St. Mark’s square look alike.

There are a couple of noteworthy things about this square, the first being that the carved reliefs under the left upper floor windows are not repeated on the right – notice the carved Lions of Venice above the windows.

Secondly, a beautiful 4 tiered fountain by Italian sculptor Luigi Ceccona at the entrance to the square was purposely destroyed in 1947.

It was an understandable reaction to the constant reminder of fascism and occupation, but it was actually a gorgeous fountain.

Strangely but luckily some of the carved statue heads from the fountain are preserved in the Split City Museum.

Prokurative or Republic Square in Split Croatia

 

The square is expansive by any terms and is usually quite bare.

It does get used for festivals and in summer is a sea of tables and chairs. Imagine the ocean views from the theatre at the end of the square.

Prokurative or Republic Square Split Croatia

 

The elaborate fountain has been replaced by this minimalist creation. Can you see it?

Prokurative Fountain Split Croatia

 

Marmontova Street

The favourite shopping street in Split is named after a French General, who was a one time friend and aide to Napoleon. This pedestrianised street is where you will find Split’s glamorous designer shops but more importantly it is loaded with nostalgia and history.

Marmontova connects the Riva to Trg Gaje Bulata and the Croatian National Theatre.

 

General Marmont’s Role in Split History

General Marmont was in charge of Dalmatia for five years in the early 1800’s. During his time he gave the city a face-lift.

Venetian walls were torn down, electricity introduced and improvements made to the Riva and road system. He was intent on beautifying the City.

Napoleon eventually considered him a traitor and he was quite unpopular in France. It seems the people of Split continues to like General Marmont however as their favourite street still holds his name.

 

The Pirja Fountain on Marmontova

This is one of the quirkiest fountains I’ve seen. Created by the Croatian Sculptor and some might say comedian Kažimir Hraste, the wall fitting from where the water spouts, is a thumb protruding between the first two fingers.

This sign is known as Fig or Figa through Italy, the Baklans and Turkey and is a mildly rude gesture. It’s the equivalent of giving people the finger in other societies.

The single stream of water supposedly lands in the funnel receptor, but a couple of times since it’s conception in 1998, the fountain has been altered to improve accuracy.

It had a reputation for unexpectedly straying.

Split Art Installation Marmontova Street

 

Split Weird Water Sculpture on Marmontova

 

Split Public Spa Bath

The public spa bath is located in this beautiful Art Nouveau building by local architect Kamilo Tončić. It is known for the sculptures of topless women on its façade.

I wonder what it looks like within?

Split Public Spa Bath Marmontova

 

Marmontova’s Belly Button

Midway on Marmontova street is the fish market or Marmontova’s belly button.

Locals credit the nearby sulphur springs with discouraging flies from congregating at the market. As we walked along the Riva we gasped at the strong smell which we at that time attributed to drain discharge from the market. In retrospect it was most likely the odour from the sulphur springs.

 

Croatian National Theatre Split

The Croatian National Theatre (1893) is considered one of the most impressive theatres in the Mediterranean, offering performances from Ballet and Croatian Literature to theatrical plays, festivals and orchestras.

I loved this luminous building and can imagine a crowd of theatre goers congregating outside.

Address of Croatian National Theatre Split: No. 1 Trg Gaje Bulata, Split

Split Croatian National Theatre

 

Varoš – Split’s Oldest Pharmacy

Look out for Varoš – Split’s oldest pharmacy (1856) which holds timber cabinets from the Renaissance.

 

Getting familiar with the area.

If you wish to explore a little more off Marmontova, or back track quickly to St. Mark’s or Procurative square (at the beginning of the tour) there are two passageways connecting Marmontova with Procurative. One of them leads off from the Fish Market.

 

Best Gelato in Split at Luka Icecream and Cakes

Take a look at Luka Icecream & Cakes on Facebook and you will see how much they love they pour into their craft.

 

I’ve gone a little off course and departed Marmontova Street, but I believe the diversion is worth it. Follow these directions from the theatre to the best gelato in Split. You will probably have to line up, which is always a good sign. The flavours are written in Croatian, but the staff offer a taste if they can’t translate.

Flavours are fresh and seasonal and include Fig, Honey, Lavender, Rosemary and Almond.

This Gelato shop opened by Polish expat Luka Klimczak in 2014, turned the Split gelato scene on it’s head. They also sell cakes including Splitska Torta but we didn’t try those here.

Marty, who spent two solid months gelato tasting through Italy, Slovenia, Croatia and Montenegro was expecting more Wow. I think his tastebuds may have become jaded because I was impressed with the gelato at Luka Ice-cream. I should add that I sampled every Gelato Marty tasted in Europe, so my reviewing credentials are impeccable.

Our choices were coconut and cookies and what we think was rum and raisin. 

One scoop – 8 kuna. Two Scoops – 15 kuna.

Luka Icecream Split Croatia

 

Find the best Splitska Torte in Split

Split’s own cake incorporates minced figs, raisins and walnuts in a light whipped meringue batter, layered with a rich butter cream laced with egg yolks and orange zest.

We tried Splitska Torte at Creme de la Creme and it was very good, but that Cafe has now closed.

Luka Icecream also serves Splitska Torte but we didn’t try it there.

Lately I have heard good things about Goluzariji Cafe at Ull Zrinsko Frankopanska not far from the Croatian National Theatre. They do great breakfasts and supposedly the best Splitska Torta in Split. Let me know what you think.

By all means try our two suggestions for the best Split torte, but we are firm believers in asking hosts for suggestions. Airbnb hosts are fantastic in this way, but ask wherever you’re staying. If you have never stayed with Airbnb before, remember you can get a very good discount by joining and booking through the Airbnb link in our sidebar.

Finding the best Splitska Torta on a Split walking tour at the now closed Creme de la Creme.

Splitska Torta is Split's own Cake

 

Palace Milesi in Fruit Square Split

Today, the official name of the square that houses Palace Milesi – Trg Braće Radić (Square of the Radić brothers, famous Croatian Politicians) – is overlooked in favour of Fruit Square (a left-over from a time when village ladies sold their fruit here).

Fruit Square Split is full of history.

The Milesi Family were Split residents of Italian Heritage, their home having a 17th Century Baroque Facade, in front of which stands the statue of philosopher and intellectual Marko Marulić, sculpted by Ivan Meštrović, of Bishop Gregory of Nin sculpture fame (the huge one outside the Golden Gate of Diocletians Palace).

 

 

Roof Line in Fruit Square Split Croatia

 

15th Century Octagonal Venetian Tower in Fruit Square. I love the crenellated crown.

Venetian Tower Fruit Square Split Croatia

 

Narodni Trg or People’s Square.

Two minutes north of Fruit Square is Narodni Trg. or People’s Square, a favourite meeting place outside of the Diocletian’s Palace walls. I wish we had more time here to enjoy a wine or a coffee and soak up the atmosphere.

15th Century Town Hall. This is my favourite building in Split. The logia on the ground floor and gothic windows make this simple architecture perfect in my opinion.

15th Century Town Hall Split

 

Narodni Trg Split Croatia

 

And so ends your Hooked on Split Walking Tour. At the clock tower in the back right hand corner of People’s Square, the Iron Gate connects to Diocletian’s Palace. which you can explore on another of our Split Walking Tours.

We visited Split as part of our Ten Weeks in Europe 2015 trip.

Thanks for visiting, I really appreciate it and would love you to add your travel post to the link below for Nancie’s Travel Photo Thursday which I co-host with Ruth from Tanama Tales and  Rachel from Rachel’s Ruminations.

An InLinkz Link-up


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Filed Under: Croatia, Destination, Self Guided Walking Tours, Ten Weeks in Europe 2015

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Kathy Marris

    September 9, 2016 at 5:53 pm

    This is such a wonderful tour of Split. We will be spending a day here next year on our cruise, but this will probably only give me a small glimpse of this beautiful place. I Love the Venetian Tower.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 10, 2016 at 9:12 am

      Your tour will be lovely Kathy. If I were to do a cruise, it would be a mediterranean one.

      Reply
  2. Nancie

    September 9, 2016 at 8:29 pm

    Hi Jan! Split is definitely worth a visit. Any city with a initiative look alike square gets my vote! I’m always a sucker for gelato, and would be sorely tempted to get one of each! I love calamari, and your plate looks awesome. Thanks for hosting this week. #TPThursday

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 10, 2016 at 9:11 am

      I eat calamari often and this was a very good serving Nancie. Thanks for hosting Travel Photo Thursday.

      Reply
  3. Rhonda Albom

    September 10, 2016 at 5:00 pm

    Thanks for this information. I love walking tours of cities and Split looks wonderful. Your map makes it easy.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 10, 2016 at 6:56 pm

      Thanks Rhonda, I always find a map more helpful than written directions.

      Reply
  4. Rachel Heller

    September 11, 2016 at 8:50 pm

    I can see why you’re “Hooked on Split”! It looks lovely. I’ve never explored Split or any of Croatia, so thanks for the introduction!

    Reply
  5. Michele {Malaysian Meanders}

    September 13, 2016 at 6:06 am

    I’m immediately drawn to all the descriptions of food in this post, especially the calamari and chips. I’d like to try the torte, too. Wow, that building is a bright yellow. I like how it gleams in the night.

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 13, 2016 at 1:44 pm

      Hi Michele, I love eating Calamari and this one was great.

      Reply
  6. Jo ~ Lifestyle Fifty

    September 13, 2016 at 4:17 pm

    Fabulous photos and story Jan. I’m also hooked on Split and would love to return. We stayed in a little B and B right in the Diocletian Palace, so close to many of the places you mention. By the way the Pinterest picture is one of the most lovely I’ve seen for a long while – colours and you!

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 15, 2016 at 7:42 pm

      Thanks Jo, that pic is a bit cheesy, but it suited my post too well to ignore lol. I’m happy that you also enjoyed Split.

      Reply
  7. Rachael@safari254

    September 18, 2016 at 7:18 pm

    So much to see/do/eat in Split! Sounds like my kind of destination.

    Reply
  8. Pinky Poinker

    September 19, 2016 at 1:23 pm

    I want to go now even if it just for a slice of that torte or some cookies and coconut ice cream. I agree, the architecture is amazing.

    Reply
  9. Frank

    September 26, 2016 at 6:41 pm

    Nice post! Split is where we’ve spent 2 months in each of the last 2 years. We know it pretty well by now, one of our favorite places.Yup, Luka ice cream is our spot! That last photo – we usually like going to the bars on the left for a beer and watching all the people walking by. Our favorite square. Marjan hill also a favorite place, great views of the city plus you suddenly find yourself in a country environment.

    Great photos!
    Frank (bbqboy)

    Reply
    • Jan

      September 27, 2016 at 12:46 am

      I think Split would be a great place to station yourself for a couple of months. Did you end up visiting Vis and Hvar Frank? I would like to return to Split to drink beers and people watch!

      Reply
  10. Jo

    March 23, 2017 at 11:14 am

    What a lovely walking trip. We spent a few days in Split in 2014 (gosh was it so long ago already) and loved it. Your post has made me want to revisit 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 23, 2017 at 3:01 pm

      I have the same problem Jo – reading about places I’ve been and wanting to revisit and see the things I missed the first time.

      Reply
  11. Agness of aTukTuk

    March 23, 2017 at 11:34 pm

    This is a great walking tour, Jan! I love walking and discovering new places!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 24, 2017 at 9:04 am

      I agree Agness. Walking is the most enjoyable way to explore – unless it’s really hot like in Vietnam lol.

      Reply

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