I cut my world travel teeth backpacking through the U.K. and Europe in my early twenties. Traveling by myself I learned to communicate with locals, organise my own travel, make friends on the road and have a bloody good time in the process. In the next four years I traveled overland here and there through Europe and Asia, first with girlfriends and then with my partner Marty but I never once considered surviving adversity when travelling.
I thought I was just a backpacker who got by.
Fast Forward 30 years to our 2010 RTW Trip, when there were tensions brewing in Bangkok Thailand that would change that opinion.
We usually travel light, but on this leg we were laden with gifts purchased in Luang Prabang Laos, which were to be sent home courtesy of Bangkok’s excellent and cheap postal service. With the extra bags we were thankful for the cab ride from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Lamphu Tree House hotel, a great budget hotel located some 300m from the Democracy Monument in the Phra Nakhon District.
The first we knew of the red shirt protests was when our cab slowed to a stop a kilometre from our destination, in the mother of all riot induced traffic jams. After 30 stationary minutes our Cabbie spied an escape route (unfortunately not in our required direction) and asked us to exit the cab so he could take advantage of it. We agreed to do so.
Surviving Adversity When Travelling in Bangkok
Carrying parcels and trailing bags, we squinted into the glaringly hot but peaceful sun. I don’t know about Marty, but I soon slipped into a pleasant daydream full of iced drinks and cool swimming pools. I snapped out of it in a flash when the crackle of semi automatic gunfire filled my ears. I had never heard gunfire for real but it was instantly recognizable. The shots were distinct and matter of fact, like a jackhammer on a building site. There was no nail biting build-up, no dramatic film score to set the scene. They sounded alarmingly close and seemed to come from the very direction we were heading.
Retracing our steps we veered into the road that hugged Thewet Canal where luck intervened in the form of a group of Thai teenagers. They asked our destination and together we huddled over the map.
Meanwhile two civilian ambulances (utilities) screeched to a halt beside us and unloaded stretchers holding two gunshot victims.
Our young friends decided it was time to move and hurried us along the canal toward the Chao Phraya (river). At Thewet Ferry Dock, a circle had formed in the crowd to accommodate the stretcher bearers who had kept pace with us. The water ambulance arrived and one of the injured men was carried aboard. As we were swept with the crowd onto the ferry, I noticed the second injured man had been left on the dock. Why so? Scenarios raced through my mind.
Whistles blew and ferry ropes were thrown, while our Thai buddies coached us on the safest route to the hotel. Approached from the direction of the Chao Phraya (they said) we would avoid the worst of the fighting which centred on the Democracy Monument.
Bangkok ferries wait for no-one and we landed on Phra Athit dock in a rush of adrenalin, ourselves and our luggage in tact.
Dodging between traffic on Samsen Road we ducked beneath a bridge and followed Lamphu Canal as per our friends’ instructions. The hotel had matter of factly advised not to arrive this way, but what else could we do in the circumstances? Instead of walking on solid ground we found ourselves on a partially covered timber walkway that over-hung the canal. The murky green water visible through the gaping holes made me extra careful with my steps.
Back in Australia our home town of Townsville hosts the largest Defence Force base in Australia and we are familiar with Black Hawk Helicopters. We have seen thrilling displays of choppers flying low along the beach sending clouds of seaspray skywards, hovering overhead with a noise both thrilling and bone chilling.
Above our walkway in Bangkok several helicopters were doing just that with the addition of loudspeaker warnings. I am not sure if they were Black Hawks but they were dark coloured and they flew every bit as low as those Townsville Black Hawks.
But these were sinister and threatening.
Finally we reached our Lamphu sanctuary only to discover the booming noises we had been hearing were tear gas canisters being fired. As we sculled the hotel’s welcoming Fruit Drink, the gas entered reception stealthily, clearing it of guests within seconds. Gasping for air and with every orifice in our heads on fire we found our room and switched on the A/C. While I stripped off my sweat sodden clothing and propped myself under a cold shower Marty was busy checking out the action from the verandah.
In the hours that followed the rounds of gunfire and the shouting of the crowds across the canal increased. Locals ran back and forth looking for vantage points. Needless to say there was no exploration of the city that night, although Marty would have done so if I had agreed.
The following morning we were horrified to hear the tally of fourteen dead.
Stepping over dried pools of blood we passed wrecked army vehicles and considered ourselves lucky not to be counted in that number.
How surviving adversity when travelling altered my opinion:
- I now know we can deal with dangerous situations;
- That Thai People are generous to travellers;
- That Traveling light is always the best option.
Encountering adversity in a strange city and country showed me we could seek help, implement a plan under pressure, follow instructions and arrive safely at our destination. It changed my opinion of myself and my abilities.
Surviving adversity when travelling changed my opinion.
Tuesday in Townsville Boats moored in Ross Creek Townsville
Wow Jan, that sounds pretty scary. I’m so glad that you were ok, but how awful. We are so distanced from such things when we see them on TV and it’s only when we’re there in person that we realise how fragile our existance is and how kind other people can be.
It was the scariest situation we have ever been in Jo. It is amazing how adrenalin just kicks in and it all works out.
What a scary situation to be in. It’s one thing to read about these protests from the other side of the world and quite another to be bang slap in the middle of them. Heartwarming to hear how total strangers took the time to help you. As a complete aside, I have an aunt and cousins in Townsville!! #TPThursday
It was scary and could have been a lot worse for us if the Thai people had not been so helpful and caring. Fancy you have family in Townsville 🙂 It’s a small world!
I totally relate, it’s so true! In fact after having traveled for almost 22 months I fell now more prepared to unusual and less pleasant situations like for instance the one you had to face. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks Franca. The longer we travel and the more mistakes we make, the more confident we feel to deal with them 🙂
Excellent post! I agree always travel light.
What a horrific experience Jan but it sure sounds like it ended well enough for you. Staying calm is hard to do under the circumstances.
I have been in the US when a stealth bomber flew overhead with no threats – strictly for a college football game. What a chilling experience.
Great post Jan.
Thanks Leigh. I always commented when we were at the Black Hawk displays on the Strand, how scary it would be to be in say Vietnam with lots of them flying low overhead. One makes so much noice – a whole squadron of them would be horrific. I have never seen a stealth bomber Leigh but they even sound scary.
I don’t know if I could have stayed as cool as you did Jan under the circumstances. Thanks heavens for the friendly Thais showing you a back way to the hotel. When we travel none of us expect to be caught up in the middle of these riots that we often watch from the comfort of our home!
I wasn’t feeling like I stayed cool Jenny! Adrenalin got me through it – when we reached our hotel room I collapsed 🙂 I was shocked at the amount of people who died and the thought that it only takes one stray bullet to get you is very scary.
Hi Jan, oh my God! What an experience. Reading this post is like reading a memoir of those who survive a war. It left me breathless. You guys handled it well. I’m glad you were both okay. Whew! I guess we don’t know what we’re made of until we’re face with terrifying situation. I think that’s when our survival instinct kicks in and we just surprise ourselves with we can do. I’m still catching my breath.
I tried to give a sense of what it was like Marisol, I am glad you saw it too. It was definitely the scariest travel experience we have ever had. Thai people have a special place in our hearts 🙂
Oh wow! What a scary situation. XO I’m so glad that you made it through safely and were still able to see good, lovely people in the midst of it. xo
I know we were really lucky Krista. Whenever I hear of people getting scammed in Thailand I want to tell them my story. Travelling shows me time and time again the good side of people.
Wow. I’m glad you made it, but what terrible circumstances – especially for the fourteen dead and their families.
Yes it was so sad Bronwyn. Thank you for commenting.
Wow what a scary account in being in the midst of all this protest…scary but exciting at the same time. I think i would have also been fascinated with going out – but that’s just the journalistic part of me seeing something out of the norm.
Oh I am sure Marty would have gone as well Noel 🙂
Wow..that was a pretty harrowing and unforgettable experience. Glad you made it out okay. You stayed a lot calmer than I would have and I have to think about these things with kids in tow who would likely be in a panic. We’re going to be in Bangkok in June and hoping things will be kay for us with the recent protests too.
It has been going on for years but hopefully it will be in a quiet patch when you are there. We spent four days in Bangkok at that time and it was OK once the government called a cease fire. The protestors do camp in the city but all you have to do is avoid the areas they are in. They don’t have any issues with tourists you just have to keep out of the way. 🙂
That must have been an incredibly scary experience, and yet you have come away with such a positive outlook on it all. Good for you (and Marty)! I remember when these riots occurred and thinking back to how I had wandered through this very area when we visited Bangkok back in 1997. Now that I travel with kids along, I think I would have been very, very scared in your situation. My 14-year-old is headed off on a school retreat this week. I am glad that it is not to the same place as last year’s retreat, a snorkeling platform between Penang and Langkawi. The Malaysian Coast Guard ended up sending a boat with water canons to protect the kids last year as they feared some kidnappings would occur if a nefarious group found out that a bunch of international students were camped out in the middle of the sea. I prefer my school trips to not require military protection.
Yes it is another thing all together when our kids are involved. That sounds like an amazing excursion but as you say it would be dreadfully worrying. We had not been listening or reading the news during our Laos visit which also would have alerted us to the mounting tensions in Bangkok. We live and learn 🙂
Wow, that sounds really scary, but kudos to you for being calm and handling it all so well. It’s strange because even though we hear about things through the news constantly, I can’t really fathom would I would actually do if caught in the middle of a serious situation. Food for thought, thank you.
It was scary Jess, but I am sure everyone would find a way out of it (hopefully). The only real thing to do is to walk away from gunfire (or run).
What an experience, Jan! One I’m sure you won’t want to repeat in this lifetime. I made the decision to stay out of Bangkok this winter, and I’m glad I did.
Yes I heard on the news a couple of days ago that the red shirt protests may be starting in Bangkok again Nancie 🙁
Reading this sentence ‘Stepping over dried pools of blood we passed wrecked army vehicles and considered ourselves lucky not to be counted in that number’ gave me chills.
Hi Angel, It was quite an incredible experience. Thanks for commenting.
wow that is so scary! like a scene out of a movie! lucky you were guided out!
http://www.house-in-tillford.com/
Yes it was scary at the time and we were very lucky to get out of it. Thanks for commenting.
How absolutely terrifying. Don’t think I would have remained as calm as you Jan.
I don’t think you know how you would react until you find yourself in the situation Pinky. Another option would have been to go to a different hotel, but strangely we didn’t consider that. Probably because I had researched Bangkok accommodation and really liked the place we had booked. If money was no option though I guess you could just go wherever and ditch the original hotel.
My goodness that is some ordeal! I would have been scared shitless to say the least. It looks as though you both kept a level head, which I think is the best way to handle a situation such as this. It is good that this experience has not put you off further overseas travel.
Hi Kathy, I managed it on adrenalin. My clothes were absolutely wet with sweat when we finally arrived at our destination and even in very hot temperatures I am not prone to excessive sweating. I think everyone would be calm in the same circumstance – it is a matter of survival. I wouldn’t consider myself a calm person under normal circumstances.
That must have been an incredibly frightening experience for you but it sounds like you stayed calm which would have helped get you safely back to your hotel.
Hi Melissa, It was extremely scary. The worst part was when the local ambulances pulled up right beside us with the wounded men. I’d never seen anyone with gun shot wounds in person before. Oh and the tear gas!
It’s incredible how you were able to keep calm through the process. The point when the tear gas came into the hotel must have been especially frightening. I’ve travelled extensively through Guatemala and you’re quite right that when things go bad there’s often no warning. The day might be bright and sunny as it was in Thailand and then it explodes,
I was amazed how calm I was too Michele. There was no other choice but to get on with it. The Thai teenagers who helped us were wonderful and we will never forget them.