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Paddling for shore.
Paddling for shore.

Marooned on the Mekong

March 14, 2013 By Jan Robinson 41 Comments

This post may contain compensated links. We may earn a small percentage if you book through a compensated link, but it won’t cost you any more by doing so. You can read our full disclaimer here.


The historic district of LUANG PRABANG IN LAOS, sits on a high headland overlooking the meeting of the timeless Mekong and its younger sibling the Nam Khan. 

At first we had dreamed of entering the Land of a Million Elephants via Thailand, spending two leisurely long days on the Mekong, floating downstream from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang.  But time decided otherwise and Bangkok Air filled the gap.  We expected the air quality to improve as we left Bangkok and flew across country but the reverse happened.

In April 2010, smoke from slash and burn agriculture hung low over Luang Prabang, trapped in the Mekong River valley by the surrounding mountains.  Only rain would clear the air and give relief from the 40 plus temperatures – but none came.  

Our photos reflect the ever present spooky glow that limited our vision.

More Mekong River Boats
Moored Mekong River Boats

Spooky glow or not, a Mekong river trip was still high on our wish list, and the morning of our second day in Luang Prabang found us short-cutting with guide through the grounds of a local Wat, to join a group of about thirty travellers, on the banks above the Mekong, downstream from where it met the Nam Khan.

Discussion at the communal breakfast table at Manichan Guesthouse that morning had concluded that the trip to Pak Ou Caves, was one of those where the journey surpassed the destination. 

Great – I loved river journeys and the caves were to my mind, incidental.

On our way to the river, the newly formed group bonded.  Having booked with the same agency I assumed we would be in the same boat.  But No.  In the mysterious way things sometimes unfold in Asia, passenger’s names were called at random from a predetermined list, upon which they walked a lonely walk to the edge, descended a few steps and promptly disappeared from view.  There were nervous jokes all round.

Names were called and we descended to the river boat.
A lonely descent

Our boat’s manifest was multi-national.  Two from Australia (Marty and I) and one each from Thailand, China, France and U.S.A.  As the boats were tied side by side, it was necessary to climb through all to reach the outer one. 

Ours was the first boat, so we necessarily departed last.

The boats tied alongside each other
The cluster of boats.

Finally it was our turn to cast off and I couldn’t have imagined a more interesting mix of moored boats to line our route.   There were working barges, boats sporting elaborate balustrades and I was just considering a large box of a boat as we pulled up at a floating petrol station. 

Other boats on the Mekong.
Balustrades and Box Shapes
Fuel Stop viewed from our seats
From my seat in the boat.
Fueling up on the Mekong River.
Fueling Up Mekong River style – that’s our candy striped roof.

With fuel in the tank, we continued upstream close by market gardens.  At the end of the dry season the river was low but I imagine these gardens would be covered by water in a matter of weeks with the arrival of the wet season.  Close to the river the land is fertile, watering is easy and a stick fence helps keep animals out of the crop.

Mekong Market Garden
Mekong Market Garden

I was in heaven being so close to such a variety of river craft.

Mekong Timber Barge
Washing day on a timber carrying Barge

Mekong timber barge side v

Same barge side view.

Just as we joined the faster moving midstream current the boat’s engine faltered, then stalled. 

Our driver had no English, but we understood.  Continuing to turn the engine over, he coaxed it back to life amidst an impromptu round of cheers.  But then a cough, a splutter, and a final silence.  We were an hour upstream of Luang Prabang as our driver paddled us toward the shore.

Paddling for shore.
Expert paddling.
Moored to a rock near the bank
Marooned – look at those weird rocks

Our driver worked hard on the motor before admitting defeat.  I am not sure of his thoughts as he later sat with head in hands, but I had a sneaking suspicion it was a bad batch of fuel.

Have you experienced a transport malfunction in your travels?

Marooned on the Mekong Part 2 

To see some other inspiring travel photos click on the link to TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY AT BUDGET TRAVELERS SANDBOX.   Marooned on the Mekong Part 2 

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Filed Under: Boat Trips, Laos

About Jan Robinson

Jan Robinson writes about travel on her Budget Travel Talk blog. A solo traveller in her teens, for the last 40 years Jan has travelled through Australia, Asia, Europe, Turkey and New Zealand with her husband. They specialise in road trips, caravanning and Independent travel without spending a fortune. Her favourite destination is Turkey and she is currently dreaming of Myanmar and Mexico.

Previous Post: «Paddles Tuesday in Townsville – Outriggers and Stingers on The Strand
Next Post: Fantastic Friday Laos Rooster A rooster crowing in Luang Prabang.»

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Life Images by Jill

    March 14, 2013 at 3:16 pm

    Hi Jan – love the pics and the story behind them. I long to be travelling again overseas. I don’t think we have had a transport malfunction, just lots of waiting in airports, bus stations, ferry docks, etc.
    Have a wonderful week.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:44 am

      Thanks Jill. It was an interesting trip. More to come.

      Reply
  2. Lisa Wood

    March 14, 2013 at 4:08 pm

    What an adventure and a half!! We had issues with our motorhome fuel – all the lines had to be replaced.
    Scary to be split up from the group, and then to be stranded by the rocks…love the boat with the washing.
    How did you end up moving on..did you have to get into another boat, or was your one fixed.
    The candy striped roof reminds me of lolly pops!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:43 am

      It was an adventure. There will be a follow up post with the rest of the story 🙂

      Reply
  3. Mary @ The World Is A Book

    March 14, 2013 at 5:17 pm

    This is such an awesome experience to be floating on the Mekong. I love the variety of boats you saw and seeing the life on the shore.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:42 am

      It was amazing, and quite different to what I thought it would be like. The smoke created havoc with visibility.

      Reply
  4. Muza-chan

    March 14, 2013 at 7:30 pm

    Great photos 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:41 am

      Thank you Muza-chan 🙂

      Reply
  5. Tonya @ The Traveling Praters

    March 15, 2013 at 12:15 am

    Oh no! How disappointing! Have I experienced a transport malfunction? Sadly, yes. The great thing is those experiences turn into great stories…after the fact. 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:41 am

      Yes they do, and I thought it was fun (especially afterward).

      Reply
  6. Leigh

    March 15, 2013 at 12:36 am

    What a bummer with the boat conking out. Visiting the Mekong River when we were in Vietnam was on my wish list but time didn’t allow for it. I’m sorry when I see your photos. I can’t imagine how they do it when the rains start – sounds like a lot of misery to me.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:40 am

      Hi Leigh, I think some of your hikes up mountains sound difficult, lol. Wouldn’t a Mekong trip through all the countries be amazing?

      Reply
  7. Sophie

    March 15, 2013 at 1:24 am

    Oh, yes, several times, once on a boat in India in the middle of the night. It all worked out in the end, though – as most things do.

    These floating houses look so unusual; I would love to saunter up or down the Mekong in one of these. Thanks for sharing this trip/tip.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:38 am

      I love the thought of doing a long trip on the Mekong. The changes as she flows through the different countries would be wonderful. I think we would have to do it individually though as the only trips that do the whole thing are luxurious and too expensive for our budget!

      Reply
  8. InsideJourneys

    March 15, 2013 at 1:48 am

    These boats are darling. They remind of how people move houses here. Sorry about the fuel situation. Sounds like something that would happen here.
    In response to your question, I was going to say no then I remembered one of our last trips in SA. The brother of one of our friends offered to take us to a school in Soweto so we could donate supplies. He picked up all the kids and a few teachers in his bus — it was a Saturday morning. We were on time, then we ran out of gas and had to lug supplies — thankfully, we had many hands and we weren’t far from the school. While we made our way to the school, he went to look for gas. We had a good laugh as we walked to the school.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:36 am

      I think these mishaps add to the adventure definitely.

      Reply
  9. Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista

    March 15, 2013 at 5:17 am

    If I was going to Vietnam a trip on the Mekong would be on my list too. It looks so serene now than the memories from the war.

    Reply
    • Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista

      March 15, 2013 at 5:18 am

      Oops meant Laos!

      Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:34 am

      The Mekong goes through so many countries, it is a fantastic river. It reminds me of an old lady.

      Reply
  10. Kate @Wild Tales of...

    March 15, 2013 at 6:47 am

    Oh no! As they say, it makes for a great story! Love getting to see all of the different types of boats on the river. Did you end up hopping aboard another boat?

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:35 am

      I thought of it as a positive for sure. I will be doing a follow up post on the rest of the trip!

      Reply
  11. Maria Alexandra @Latinabroad

    March 15, 2013 at 7:57 am

    No really a malfunction, but we had a really bad crash in the middle of the Egyptian desert! It was crazy, and one of our passengers had a bleeding head injury.

    He had to be taken to the hospital. We were in the middle of the desert for hours, until finally he was fine and released, and we got back to our desert oasis. Crazy huh?

    – Maria Alexandra

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:32 am

      A car crash? That would have been dreadful, especially for the guy with the head injury who then continued with the trip!

      Reply
  12. NatureFootstep Travel

    March 15, 2013 at 8:20 am

    a very interesting post.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 9:31 am

      Thank you 🙂

      Reply
  13. Seana - Sydney, Kids, Food + Travel

    March 15, 2013 at 10:28 am

    It’s always, always good to have a real life adventure. I love the smoky feel of your photos. When shall I ever get to the Mekong… and be a backpacker again… well, in a few years I bet, but already looking forward to it.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 2:37 pm

      I agree wholeheartedly and love real life adventures. Our backpacking adventures morphed into something different in our children, but now we are back into unencumbered travel again. Both good in their own way!

      Reply
  14. Marisol@TavelingSolemates

    March 15, 2013 at 12:18 pm

    Hi Jan, bet you were thinking ” There are tons of boat our there, why oh why am I on this one?!!” But hey, if you weren’t on that boat there wasn’t this interesting story to tell!
    I have had a transportation maltunction in Turkey traveling by bus from Cappadocia to Kusadasi. We were stalled for 3 hours. Fortunately, it was an overnight trip. Was very tired and slept off most part of it. But the locals were all wide awake, milling around the bus making a amazingly big fuss out of it.
    I love the perspective of your shots. Really beautiful.

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 2:40 pm

      I enjoyed our little adventure. I have heard the buses are very reliable in Turkey so you must have been unlucky. Lucky it was night and you could sleep through most of it. We hope to spend a couple of months in Turkey this year possibly Mid August (Istanbul) till mid October (further south and inland). Did you just bus around by yourself?

      Reply
      • Marisol

        March 22, 2013 at 5:23 am

        Hi Jan, we traveled by plane from Istanbul to Cappodocial and then bus it around ouselves the rest of the trip. Yes, we were just unlucky with the particulary bus ride. The rest of the bus rides went really well. The buses there are very comfortable, spacious and they you e snack and tea. Have a wonderful trip.

        Reply
        • Jan

          March 22, 2013 at 9:31 am

          Thanks for the info Marisol 🙂

          Reply
  15. Johanna at ZigaZag

    March 15, 2013 at 2:20 pm

    What some beautiful pics, Jan and the idea of a trip on the Mekong sounds so romantic in an adventurous way. Loved the close-up photos of the boats 🙂

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 15, 2013 at 2:41 pm

      It was romantic and exciting. I would like to travel the whole length of the Mekong – what an adventure that would be.

      Reply
  16. Charli l Wanderlusters

    March 16, 2013 at 8:07 am

    What a great adventure. The best travel memories come from journeys like this one! Those house boats look as though they shouldn’t be able to float let alone function!! Love the images that illustrate the escapade!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 16, 2013 at 9:49 am

      I could not have asked for a better trip – more to come!

      Reply
  17. Vera Marie Badertscher

    March 16, 2013 at 9:38 am

    What eerily evocative colors in these photos! Although I’d love to take a boat trip on the Mekong, these boats don’t inspire a lot of confidence!

    Reply
    • Jan

      March 16, 2013 at 9:48 am

      The sky was like this the whole time so that all our photos of L.P. are the same. I do wish it had rained so we could have seen it all clear – not that I am complaining, I loved it.

      Reply
  18. Lyndsay

    June 13, 2013 at 1:45 pm

    These is what makes Laos a remarkable place… Myanmar would have similar things to offer but of course, they are totally different places that offers different thngs too.

    Reply
    • Jan

      June 13, 2013 at 1:48 pm

      I think I would love Myanmar as well Lyndsay 🙂

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. InsideJourneys | Moving Day, Westmoreland Jamaica - InsideJourneys says:
    March 21, 2013 at 3:05 pm

    […] I read Budget Jan‘s post for last week’s Travel Photo Thursday, it reminded me of the times, in […]

    Reply
  2. Lucinda in North Queensland is a Boating and Fishing Paradise says:
    June 8, 2014 at 6:42 pm

    […] you want to travel in a boat on the Mekong, explore ruins in Turkey, or meet Berber Cameleers in […]

    Reply

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