Bicycle riding is a great budget way of exploring KAMPOT country.
Having heard of the existence of salt fields across river we decided to take a look. Hiring beat-up bicycles for $1 USD/day we prepared ourselves for the challenge of the old bridge. Destroyed by the Khmer Rouge it had been rebuilt but with mismatched components. The result was undeniably charming albeit with underlying questions about structural integrity. Once on the bridge I started pedaling like a crazy woman to scale the ramp that masked the change in level at the first join. Piece of Cake. The rest of the bridge passed in a blur of adrenalin tinged with the glow of accomplishment and relief.
Views like this would be our reward on the other side of the river.
But first of all we had to thread our way through traffic, take the second left and cross another less eccentric bridge to Fish Isle. In retrospect I guess the island was named for the several fishing villages it is home to. We quickly left the main (pot-holed) road behind and headed onto the quieter side roads. There we took our time, admiring the lush green country and homes made from corrugated iron sheets and thatch that squatted in the rice paddies. Some of them shaded sleeping platforms beneath where whole families sat. Occasionally young boys gathered courage to call out to our backs – but not in English.
We started out with the idea of riding as far as then climbing Nut Hill for it’s ocean views, but we soon realized we would not make it that far.
This seasoned timber home with it’s red tin roof and blue paneled boards overlooked a peaceful pond whose surface was covered in a fine floating plant that we call duck weed. I think it worked.
I wondered if it was full of fish but the surface was quite still.
An unmade track culminated in this weird but wonderful scene of ducks/geese patrolling the front of a rather upmarket home. I wonder if they ever got the courage to waddle upstairs? This home was in stark contrast to the other homes we saw that day.
Only a couple of metres away from the house and it’s resident guard flock, fishing boats bobbled at their moorings. In a different country a Gondolier might appear…
Marty, a born Leo, ventured down 60cm wide paths that doubled as built up borders between the rice paddies and being a Virgo I followed! These already narrow paths were consumed by mud puddles in places that left just a few tyre widths of dry clay to negotiate. I tried focusing on the gap, but my Taos (best ever walking sandals) and I landed in the mud after I lost my nerve and jumped off. Subsequently I tried looking only at the muddy puddles but failed again, then finally looking only straight ahead avoiding eye contact with both gap and the puddles. Time to face it – my bike and I were fatally attracted to mud.
To his credit my partner in life repeatedly stopped and waited for me – making sympathetic noises – with a possible glint of amusement in his eyes. When I told him grumpily that I thought we should turn back he convinced me we were nearly there – where? Ever optomistic I washed my Taos in a paddy field and hopped back on.
Occasionally we came upon tiny boys in charge of weighty water buffalo. I don’t think this little guy could possibly have stopped the buffalo if it decided to charge.
Our route through the paddy fields had led us the back way to a small Muslim Fishing Village on the riverbank. Prayers had just finished and white clad men and boys poured from the mosque in a paddy field bordering their village. Everyone seemed perplexed by our sudden appearance and watched our progress warily, while I tried diligently not to run over any livestock. There was only the one track through the village and we followed it past the mosque where it joined a larger yet still dirt road.
Another well chosen turn and miraculously we had arrived at some salt fields. (Insert air punching and high fiving)
Now that the rains and floods had receded the fields were being prepared. Soon water would be let in then stopped, while the dammed water was left to evaporate into salt crystals.
While the fields were not impressive in their current state I could imagine women brooming the shining crystals into Mt. Fuji-like piles. Evaporation would not take long in Kampot’s climate.
Although we had set out looking for salt fields this was a definite case of it’s the journey not the destination that counts. Bicycles have a way of revealing new things to me – both in my surroundings and in myself. Are you a fan of exploring by bicycle?
This post is linked to Nancie’s TRAVEL PHOTO THURSDAY AT BUDGET TRAVELERS SANDBOX. If you are new to Budget Travel Talk you can see our Cambodian Itinerary HERE.
Tuesday in Townsville at the Perc Tucker Gallery
What a great bike ride even if it was a tad unusual. Incredibly scenic country reminiscent of what I rode through in Vietnam – without the salt flats. It also looks like snake country to me.
I am glad I didn’t think about snakes at the time Leigh 🙂
That little hut with all of the green growth in front and palm trees in back looks like a scene right out of a movie, Jan! That would be so fun to bicycle through the country side and talk to the locals (if I spoke the language). My big question though is, where is the picture of the precarious bridge??! 🙂
It is in the background of the last photo, which shows Marty on his bicycle (I added it after publishing).
What a fun bike trip Jan. The scenery looks wonderful and even though you were attracted to the mud, it sounds as though you saw a lot more than usual!
Thanks Jenny, I like getting out exploring the country, to see what it is like away from the tourist trail.
Woohoo!! You rock! 🙂 What a fun and challenging and inspiring jaunt. 🙂
This is something we’d love to do – bicycle through countryside like this, even though your adrenalin charged ‘charge’ over the bridge’s missing link sounded a little suspect! The scenery and those gorgeous colours though must have been worth a little hiccup!
Beautiful 🙂
I was a bit concerned when I read you were hiring ‘beat-up’ bikes so I’m happy to read you got there without problems.
The contrast of the homes reminds me of Jamaica.
Ha ha – they were the only type available. I did have to take mine back after I rode it down the street a bit because the pedal was on a queer angle. The next one was fine 🙂
we rented bikes when we were in hoi an. the brakes were somewhat hypothetical but they got us to a very nice beach and back and for $1 a bike (or around that) what more can you ask for?
I love biking in Hoi An. We did a guided ride there and saw so much.
Now that looks like a fun bicycle ride – and, in all fairness, it looks like the mud was unavoidable, I’m sure that I would have been covered! I love the photo of the fishing boats!
Ha Ha Lisa. I don’t have a photo of the mud that I fell into. The roads in these photos were the major roads. lol. It was fun.
Lovely post, Iv felt like I was also riding along side you guys.
… and God forbid that buffalo decides to charge!
Thanks Rachel, The water buffalo seem placid but I have heard of them charging with devestating results.
Bike rentals for $1 a day, love this! Beautiful shot of the child and the water buffalo, that’s an image that reminds me very much of Cambodia.
I agree! Boys and Water Buffalo would have to be the most common sight in the country areas. One of our guides told us that as a child he had to roam with his cows but never buffalo. He does not trust buffalo and warned us to keep away, yet these little boys just take it for granted.
Great narrative and photos. Seems like it was a relaxing day of exploration. I’m about to book flights to Cambodia in April, so I’m heading back to reread your posts.
Hi Michele, Are you still flying direct into and out of Siem Reap. Four days there was good for us, but we take days off. You might get temple burn out if you visit temples every day!
This sounded like such a fun adventure. I’m glad you were rewarded with such beautiful views of the countryside. Love the rice paddies pictures.
It is fun to look back on Mary. I love memories like that one. 🙂
I love the quaintness of the small Cambodian villages. Your post makes me want to visit again. The last time I was on a bike (here in Thailand) I ended up hitting a parked vehicle and walking away with a lump on my leg the size of an extra large egg…ouch. It seems that my balance isn’t what it used to be. What I need to do is rent a bike, find a parking lot, and peddle like all get out until I get the hang of peddling again !! 🙂
Or head down a country lane 🙂
I used to ride a bike regularly when we were in Sarina, haven’t since moving down to Wollongong.
What a perfect way to see the area…how small does that sweet little boy look next to that big buffalo? Wonder what he would do if it took off?
And oh Jan I was smiling about the mud…we went on a quest to find a water fall two weekends ago and ended up walking through a small muddy track with no shoes! Yeah I so feel you 🙂
I think the little fella would have been bouncing along behind if the buffalo took off 🙂
Jan, Love these photos. I didn’t go to these places in Cambodia, so now I want to go back!
There were lots of places we didn’t see too Corinne 🙂
Definitely agree that it’s the journey not the destination that counts, and we have had more serendipitous moments on our journeys than on reaching where we were going in the first place. Yes Yes yes to exploring by bike, although muddy tracks would have me a bit antsy too 😉 Yes, Kampot does look like a great place to retire. More stories please 🙂
I’ve done some great half/day bicycle tours and love them and I know you cycled on your Croatian trip – not to mention your regular trips around Perth.
Bike riding is always inspiring. But, this post, partnered with great photos is double of the fun. Thanks so much!
Thanks for your kind comments Wanda. What a beautiful area the country around Kampot is.
Looks like a great way to explore this pretty area Jan. Glad you didn’t see any snakes – eek! 🙂
I love exploring places by bike, but like you I’m not as brave as my husband and a hell of a lot slower! My daughter and cycled down from the volcano in the middle of the island of Bali once for about 40Kms and I could barely walk afterwards! What beautiful scenery in Kampot. I hope to travel there some day.
I do enjoy riding bikes when travelling, but when I’m at home I don’t ride mine at all!