Being our last night in Lisbon, we wanted to have a typical Lisbon experience. In particular, a typical Gracia experience. Our Airbnb apartment was in the Gracia area and in only five days it has become home.
We buy our breakfast every morning at the local pastry shop and every day we walk past the Churrasqueira de Sapadores. It caught our attention because in the afternoon a fire is built in the cooker, which happens to be at the front window of the restaurant. Grills are stacked on the side while the pile of coals grows. When the coals are just right the grills are placed on and flattened out chickens are threaded on stainless steel spikes across the top.
As we peered in the window, the cook gestured to come in. He pointed to a chicken on the side that was ready to go.
This is a local family restaurant. The tables have clear plastic table cloths with a cheery checked pattern beneath. As we sat down a paper square the size of the table was laid on top.
The waiter put us in the far back corner and offered wine or beer. At first he was confused when Marty requested lemonade instead, but after some thought produced a bottle of 7 up and offered it for approval as if it was an expensive bottle of wine. I opted for the easier beer.
Soon a plate of cut up chicken arrived (the whole chicken) and was placed on an adjoining table. We could have had rice as well but had decided on chips. Then we saw the rice on another table and wished we had ordered it instead of chips. Moist, with a subtle (tomato?) colour and a mix of vegetables and herbs tossed through, it looked delicious.
The chicken unsurprisingly had a smoky flavour with crispy skin and did not appear to have been marinated.
The place was about 3/4 full and noisy. There were large families, single diners and lots of children. The wall mounted flat screen television that was tuned to the news channel said it all.
Desserts were displayed in a glass cabinet on the bar. Marty chose an inverted upside-down pineapple sponge, with cream in the middle and on top, and declared it a tasty and light end to a very filling meal.
Our three drinks, whole chicken, large chips, and desert cost us 15 Euro.
As we left the restaurant, the surrounding buildings were lit with a golden glow from the setting sun – an authentic end to our time in Lisbon.
Letting it all hang out in Lisbon
Jan, Love it! Felt like I was there with you. Thanks!
Thanks Josie, I was surprised that the chicken was so plain. In Australia Portuguese chicken is quite fiery and marinated. It is interesting to see how things really are – at least in some pockets of the Country.